Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM) There is replacement for displacement, it is forced induction - OEM 2.0 liter turbo engines in the USDM WRX. 90-94 Legacy Turbo EJ22 turbo engines can also be discussed here.

Power Loss on Hot/Humid Day

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Old 06-19-2005, 11:51 AM
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your car will see reduced performance in hot/humid weather because the charge air is hotter. it's just what happens.
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Old 06-19-2005, 03:25 PM
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Origami posted by Joeman
I don't quite understand..this wasn't reduced performance, this was no performance...the car practically stalled...is this common?
I've never driven my car in weather like that so I can't comment. I have, however, driven in 105°+ temperatures (but around 40% humidity) and at 7000 feet in elevation and have not encountered anything like what you describe. The elevation change seems to have a greater effect than hot ambient air temps on power output but is not what you describe (near stalling).

EDIT: If you fill out your Location field (general location is good enough - NY) in your Profile, it's easier for us to remember why you experience such weather.

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Old 06-20-2005, 12:20 AM
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im no mechanic but i think your problem is beyond bad gas or temperature. have you checked your fuel system, fuel pump injectors etc? Also maybe wastegate issues/boost leak? wish i could be of more help
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Old 06-20-2005, 10:25 AM
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Something else is going on. I drive my 03 WRX in lots of 90's and 100+ degree weather. High air temps definitely reduce the effectiveness of turbos, but it doesn't cripple the car, it just doesn't accelerate quite as fast as in cooler weather. I've never noticed ill effects caused by high humidity. Was your gas tank real near empty when this first happened?

If the fuel tank was very close to empty, your fuel pump may have been sucking water that had collected at the bottom of the tank. Higher RPMs may have put more demand on the pump causing it to suck lower into the tank, hence: more water.

Vapor lock? Not sure how the fuel system works in the subie but this problem is more likely in hot weather with a nearly empty tank.

Defective gas cap?

A can of fuel dryer dumped into the tank the next time you fill up wouldn't hurt.

Last edited by yzercyber; 06-20-2005 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 06-20-2005, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Joeman
WW - thanks for the input....

Yeah, I think this is kinda strange too, 105+ suggests that some folks out there have really pushed these things to some extremes (from ambient perspective)...as mentioned in the original post I'm sure some people in the Alabamas, Floridas, South Carolinas have driven in conditions like I mention which is why I'm not really ready to believe the dealer's explanation...anybody got some guesses what might have gone wrong? I guess I'm just trying to prepare for the worst....(and decide if I should join AAA)....
It is not the weather. Here in Phoenix our ambient temp ranges from 65 in the winter to 110 in the summer (F); I have very accurate (digital) gauges and there is almost no difference in my radiator or oil temp between a 65-degree-day and a 110-degree day. The engine puts out much more heat than the air around it, and thus the laws of thermodynamics dictate that the heat energy sheds from the engine to the air as long as the air is cooler than the engine. The EJ20 isn't "warmed up" until 165(f) and likes to stay at 185(f); thus ambient temp outside the car wouldn't affect it, except to allow it to warm up faster on hot days. Likewise, oil temp, EGTs, intake temp and more all seem fairly steady regardless of weather conditions (though intake temp goes down a few degrees in the winter).

You might see increased turbo lag in a hot climate, as the intercooler won't work as efficiently; however, humidity won't affect the intercooler because it does not rely on evaporative cooling -- just heat exchange with the passing air.

The only major problem with ambient heat and the EJ20 is having to turn on your air conditioning -- with my 02 WRX, turning on the A/C literally cripples the car. It limits boost to 13.2 PSI (I normally run 14.2), removes all low-end torque and makes downshifting extremely unpredictable (as the engine is still affected by the A/C "load" when the driveshaft should be "unloaded" in neutral). But this crippling effect by the A/C is steady, not incidental. I think the "bad gas" diagnosis was absolutely correct, and you've got nothing to worry about.
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:01 PM
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Sounds like what happened to me when I got a batch of bad gas. Sure the pump said 91 but, I don't think it was even close. The Boost was soley running off of the waste gate with cut out at 7 psi. Do you have a boost gauge hooked up? If not, you should hook one up temporarly to see what you are running. Stock should be right about 14.5 psi. I've noticed slightly reduced performance when the temp hits around 95-105 around the bay area but, it is hardly noticable. As was said, altitude affects performace a whole lot more. Going to Tahoe in the summer I do notice a drop in performace.

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Old 06-20-2005, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by meilers
It is not the weather. Here in Phoenix our ambient temp ranges from 65 in the winter to 110 in the summer (F); I have very accurate (digital) gauges and there is almost no difference in my radiator or oil temp between a 65-degree-day and a 110-degree day. The engine puts out much more heat than the air around it, and thus the laws of thermodynamics dictate that the heat energy sheds from the engine to the air as long as the air is cooler than the engine. The EJ20 isn't "warmed up" until 165(f) and likes to stay at 185(f); thus ambient temp outside the car wouldn't affect it, except to allow it to warm up faster on hot days. Likewise, oil temp, EGTs, intake temp and more all seem fairly steady regardless of weather conditions (though intake temp goes down a few degrees in the winter).

You might see increased turbo lag in a hot climate, as the intercooler won't work as efficiently; however, humidity won't affect the intercooler because it does not rely on evaporative cooling -- just heat exchange with the passing air.

The only major problem with ambient heat and the EJ20 is having to turn on your air conditioning -- with my 02 WRX, turning on the A/C literally cripples the car. It limits boost to 13.2 PSI (I normally run 14.2), removes all low-end torque and makes downshifting extremely unpredictable (as the engine is still affected by the A/C "load" when the driveshaft should be "unloaded" in neutral). But this crippling effect by the A/C is steady, not incidental. I think the "bad gas" diagnosis was absolutely correct, and you've got nothing to worry about.
one thing you're not factoring is the relative humidity, in phoenix it can be 110 but you guys don't get nearly the humidty that we see in the great lakes region. the density of the air changes with the temp and humidity, thus affecting the performance of the motor. all things being equal, a motor will perform better with a cooler ambiet temp (say 60* compared to 95*), regardless of the operating temps.
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Old 06-20-2005, 01:39 PM
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Theoretically this could happen. If your ECU is used to the typically New York state weather being cool and all the sudden it experiences vastly different inlet air temps it could def. retard the timing enough to cause "no performance" like conditions. The thing you need to remember is that if that is the case your ECU did you a favor and kept you from detonating. Remember that the hotter air gets the less oxygen content it has which puts more demand on octane (i.e. air/fuel). Hope this helps a little. Keep us updated.
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Old 06-20-2005, 02:01 PM
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I just had my '02 WRX in the Subaru shop this afternoon with the exact same problem, mine was more pronounced during and after a moderate righthand corner or a moderate to heavy deceleration.
However, about 3 hours after the check it was just as crippled as Joeman described.

The techs at the dealer said there have been a few cases of this and that the "tech line" said that they replaced the entire pickup assembly, and that the "sock" might have gotten contaminated.

Since I first noticed this problem about 5 days ago I have noted:
No immediate change in RPM when depressing the clutch (no change in throttle input) during the episode
NOT bad gas, 5 different gas stations
Not water in the gas, problem got more pronounced after adding 'heat'
Ambient temperature doesn't seem to matter, however letting the car sit for 30+ min helps
No boost fluctuation.
Every gear
At first just right hand corners, both roads 35mph limit, with moderate throttle
Later hesitation, sometimes stall, after moderate/heavy decel


Does anyone know where the post about changing your fuel pump is?
Does anyone know if I could run a Walboro? 255 fuel pump w/o larger turbo, injectors, or
computer mod?
Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks
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Old 06-20-2005, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by knight1833
I just had my '02 WRX in the Subaru shop this afternoon with the exact same problem, mine was more pronounced during and after a moderate righthand corner or a moderate to heavy deceleration.
However, about 3 hours after the check it was just as crippled as Joeman described.

The techs at the dealer said there have been a few cases of this and that the "tech line" said that they replaced the entire pickup assembly, and that the "sock" might have gotten contaminated.

Since I first noticed this problem about 5 days ago I have noted:
No immediate change in RPM when depressing the clutch (no change in throttle input) during the episode
NOT bad gas, 5 different gas stations
Not water in the gas, problem got more pronounced after adding 'heat'
Ambient temperature doesn't seem to matter, however letting the car sit for 30+ min helps
No boost fluctuation.
Every gear
At first just right hand corners, both roads 35mph limit, with moderate throttle
Later hesitation, sometimes stall, after moderate/heavy decel


Does anyone know where the post about changing your fuel pump is?
Does anyone know if I could run a Walboro? 255 fuel pump w/o larger turbo, injectors, or
computer mod?
Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks
A bigger fuel pump will not adversely affect your engine because your return line will send back the access that the injectors don't use. I know the STi has an access plate for the fuel pump but I'm not sure if it's the same on the WRX. I would get a little more advice on the subject before making any immediate changes.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jdepould
one thing you're not factoring is the relative humidity, in phoenix it can be 110 but you guys don't get nearly the humidty that we see in the great lakes region. the density of the air changes with the temp and humidity, thus affecting the performance of the motor. all things being equal, a motor will perform better with a cooler ambiet temp (say 60* compared to 95*), regardless of the operating temps.
Humidity can't affect the intercooler directly, but wet air stores heat better than dry air; air density isn't much of an issue with the stock airbox as by the time the air gets to the turbo it is nice and hot already and doesn't hold much water (intake temp at the MAF is typically in the low 100s). I definitely agree that a cooler engine pulling cooler air runs better than one in hot conditions with hot, humid air, but the effects aren't anything as dramatic as what the original poster described. It might cost you .25 a second in the quarter-mile, but not turn a Subaru into a Civic.

It is possible that it wasn't bad gas, and some engine event (such as very strong knock or even an electrical problem) sent the ECU into "limp mode," which seems to be exactly what he is describing -- however, it isn't possible to have that happen without a CEL, which is the part of this whole discussion that doesn't add up.
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