Oil changing info
04-28-2003, 08:26 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ciny
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Car Info: 04 FXT PSM
Oil changing info
I've been reading the other threads about oil changes/weights/syn vs. regular and now I really worried...
I just changed my oil at 1,040 miles (after keeping the RPMs below 4K and varying the RPMs) to Mobile1 Full syn 10W-30....I've only driven about 150 miles since...
Did I just f**k up?? According to some posts in the other threads, I should have waited until 3,000 miles to do the 1st change and then not to syn until at least 6,000 miles....
Any opinions?? Should I change my oil back to non-syn??
I just changed my oil at 1,040 miles (after keeping the RPMs below 4K and varying the RPMs) to Mobile1 Full syn 10W-30....I've only driven about 150 miles since...
Did I just f**k up?? According to some posts in the other threads, I should have waited until 3,000 miles to do the 1st change and then not to syn until at least 6,000 miles....
Any opinions?? Should I change my oil back to non-syn??
04-28-2003, 10:46 AM
#3
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Location: Ciny
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Car Info: 04 FXT PSM
Hey! It's Shamrock again....I used 10w30 because my stupid *** wasn't paying attention when I bought it (and because that what I always put in my other cars - so when I saw 10w30, I just went for it..
)
So you aren't concerned about the *special additives* in the oil from the factory that help break in the *hardened* sleeves??
)So you aren't concerned about the *special additives* in the oil from the factory that help break in the *hardened* sleeves??
04-28-2003, 10:53 AM
#4
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Yes, it's me. I try to be helpful with things I've done myself
I read around alot before I changed my oil. There was alot of info pretty much saying that by the time your motor has 1000 miles, it's already well broken in. However, there are also alot of people that believe it takes 3000, 5000, etc. for the break in period. I guess I kinda took a chance
I read around alot before I changed my oil. There was alot of info pretty much saying that by the time your motor has 1000 miles, it's already well broken in. However, there are also alot of people that believe it takes 3000, 5000, etc. for the break in period. I guess I kinda took a chance
04-28-2003, 08:21 PM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: colorado
Posts: 79
Not a problem be happy
It's not a problem. Most of the breakin of the piston rings ( which is the issue on synthetic's) occurs in the first few hours of running. That break in continues to mature over the next several thousand miles. A WRX with 20,000 well cared for miles has more power than one with 200, or 2000 miles for that reason.
The synthetic is a good investment, and will give you much better hot weather protection, and significantly inprove the life of the engine.
As far as the 10-30, in the summer time that should be no problem, you may want to drop back to the thinner recommended weights in sept, but it will not cause a problem of any kind. The 10 refers to how easy the oil flows when the engine is cold, the 30 refers to how thick the oil is when the engine is hot. There is no important difference between 0-30, 5-30 and 10-30 oil once the engine is hot. You will only see a slight difference in cold weather starting and a very slight change in fuel milage when the engine is cold.
Larry
The synthetic is a good investment, and will give you much better hot weather protection, and significantly inprove the life of the engine.
As far as the 10-30, in the summer time that should be no problem, you may want to drop back to the thinner recommended weights in sept, but it will not cause a problem of any kind. The 10 refers to how easy the oil flows when the engine is cold, the 30 refers to how thick the oil is when the engine is hot. There is no important difference between 0-30, 5-30 and 10-30 oil once the engine is hot. You will only see a slight difference in cold weather starting and a very slight change in fuel milage when the engine is cold.
Larry
05-07-2003, 03:31 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 152
my opinion and has worked for me..is to use reccomended 5w30 for up to 2-3 oil changes during/after the break in.
I've spoken to and seen many wrx owner with blow-by oil problems that they fill their catchcans or sludge their throttebodies full of blow by oil. ...definitely a sign of improper break in.
Blow by was very minimal on my old wrx motor prior to swapping
I've spoken to and seen many wrx owner with blow-by oil problems that they fill their catchcans or sludge their throttebodies full of blow by oil. ...definitely a sign of improper break in.
Blow by was very minimal on my old wrx motor prior to swapping
05-07-2003, 07:31 PM
#9
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Castro Valley, CA
Posts: 60
it doesn't make any difference alot of the cars come from the factory with mobil-1 fill already. you shold also put some synthetic oil in your trany in another 1,000 mi. or so i put red line MT-90 in mine big difference works alot better now. Thomas
05-10-2003, 10:46 AM
#10
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Here is what Subaru has to say about synthetic oil.
Orig. posted by EIonJess on clubwrx.com
I switched to M1 5w-30 at 2000 miles. I'm currently using M1 0w-40.
Orig. posted by EIonJess on clubwrx.com
I sent an email to Subarau at mysubaru.com concerning the use of synthetic oil. Here is the response below. Take for what it's worth.
Thank you for contacting the Subaru Web site, and congratulations on the purchase of your '02 Impreza WRX! We hope that you are enjoying this exciting model!
As for synthetic oil, this is your decision. Our Technical Services Department advised that if you do decide to use synthetic oil, that you always use it because your engine will become accustomed to it. The same goes if you decide to use 'regular' oil.
We recommend that you first change the oil in your WRX at 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. We STRONGLY recommend that you at least wait until the break-in period of 1,000 miles is surpassed.
The break-in period of the engine requires that a given amount of friction exists between components. The piston rings need to rub against the cylinder wall to break-in or finely tune the machine mating between the two metal parts. To properly seat all mechanical components, a certain amount of friction is required between the metal parts. Since synthetic oil has a lower friction rating than regular oil, we recommend that Subaru owners wait until after the 1,000 mile break-in period to switch to synthetic engine oil.
Synthetic engine oils can be used in our engines if the user follows the engine oil recommendations prescribed in the Owner's Manual. Subaru has not tested the compatibility of all synthetic oils with engine seals, but the petroleum industry does adhere to standards for the refining process which meet Subaru requirements. Subaru does not guarantee the performance of any brand of any engine oil.
Engine Oil Guidelines: - only use engine oil that meets or exceeds the API classification designated in the Owner's Manual for the vehicle - only use engine oil that meets the VISCOSITY requirements for the ambient temperatures under which the vehicle will be operated as outlined in the Owner's Manual - THE ENGINE OIL MUST BE CHANGED AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED IN THE WARRANTY AND MAINTENANCE BOOKLET FOR THE VEHICLE. SOME SYNTHETIC OIL REFINERS RECOMMEND EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. SUBARU DOES NOT RECOMMEND ANY DEVIATION FROM THE SPECIFIED INTERVALS IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL.
Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance.
Thank you for contacting the Subaru Web site, and congratulations on the purchase of your '02 Impreza WRX! We hope that you are enjoying this exciting model!
As for synthetic oil, this is your decision. Our Technical Services Department advised that if you do decide to use synthetic oil, that you always use it because your engine will become accustomed to it. The same goes if you decide to use 'regular' oil.
We recommend that you first change the oil in your WRX at 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. We STRONGLY recommend that you at least wait until the break-in period of 1,000 miles is surpassed.
The break-in period of the engine requires that a given amount of friction exists between components. The piston rings need to rub against the cylinder wall to break-in or finely tune the machine mating between the two metal parts. To properly seat all mechanical components, a certain amount of friction is required between the metal parts. Since synthetic oil has a lower friction rating than regular oil, we recommend that Subaru owners wait until after the 1,000 mile break-in period to switch to synthetic engine oil.
Synthetic engine oils can be used in our engines if the user follows the engine oil recommendations prescribed in the Owner's Manual. Subaru has not tested the compatibility of all synthetic oils with engine seals, but the petroleum industry does adhere to standards for the refining process which meet Subaru requirements. Subaru does not guarantee the performance of any brand of any engine oil.
Engine Oil Guidelines: - only use engine oil that meets or exceeds the API classification designated in the Owner's Manual for the vehicle - only use engine oil that meets the VISCOSITY requirements for the ambient temperatures under which the vehicle will be operated as outlined in the Owner's Manual - THE ENGINE OIL MUST BE CHANGED AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED IN THE WARRANTY AND MAINTENANCE BOOKLET FOR THE VEHICLE. SOME SYNTHETIC OIL REFINERS RECOMMEND EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. SUBARU DOES NOT RECOMMEND ANY DEVIATION FROM THE SPECIFIED INTERVALS IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL.
Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance.
05-10-2003, 11:46 AM
#11
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Location: dover, NH
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Car Info: 2001 sub. imp.
when i had a cracked oil pan i took it to the dealer for some warranty work, they said that they put in 5-30 normal oil, i had told them that i had always used synthetic on the phone before this and they said that that was not good for subaru engines as they are designed to run with normal oil, they also said that they may deny warranty work if anything ever happened to my engine while using synthetic. were they just telling me a load of crap?
by the way, this was my old dealership, the same people that quoted me $500 base to put in an act clutch, just labor, i bought the clutch, bearings, etc. by myself and the same dealership that said it would cost over $500 for a 4-wheel alignment cause my wheels were too big and they had to charge something like 1.5hours labor for taking wheels off and another 1.5 for putting them back on
by the way, this was my old dealership, the same people that quoted me $500 base to put in an act clutch, just labor, i bought the clutch, bearings, etc. by myself and the same dealership that said it would cost over $500 for a 4-wheel alignment cause my wheels were too big and they had to charge something like 1.5hours labor for taking wheels off and another 1.5 for putting them back on
05-10-2003, 10:47 PM
#12
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Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 1,051
Car Info: 1998 Chevy S10... lowww
i work at a "jiffy lube" place, but we are the number one oil change shop in the bay area.
i actually did a test on motor oils, for my school's required science fair, and which work better.
i used all of the oil weights Castrol makes, and the weight above the weight recommened (10w-40 and 10w-30, respectively) was all around better. better fuel ecconomy, better protection against viscosity breakdown, etc.
and the 10w-40 was not synthetic. it did better in all categories than the Castrol Syntec oils did.
hope this info helps a bit.
i actually did a test on motor oils, for my school's required science fair, and which work better.
i used all of the oil weights Castrol makes, and the weight above the weight recommened (10w-40 and 10w-30, respectively) was all around better. better fuel ecconomy, better protection against viscosity breakdown, etc.
and the 10w-40 was not synthetic. it did better in all categories than the Castrol Syntec oils did.
hope this info helps a bit.
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