EtchyLives

iTrader: (1)

You can get a manual boost controller for ~$40. you can make one yourself for much cheaper (do a search, I know there are instructions somewhere). All you NEED then is a boost guage. You can get a boost cup, tubing, and guage from summit racing for ~$80.

dan avoN7

iTrader: (11)

get rid of the bleed and go back to stock for now. The bleed will not only build boost slower but it doesn't control it that well (Search for what people say) Either buy a mbc or make one that is ball/spring or has both like the turboxs hp. So far with my joe p xz i have no boost spiking and it does it's job well.

kyoung05

iTrader: (2)

Where did you hear that a bleed won't work well? I am using a bleeder type setup which is just a variant of someone's "pulled hose" mod, and it works great. Much better than the 3/16" setup I was running earlier. Not only am I hitting higher boost in each gear, but it is spooling faster too. If you just pull the "left" side of the hose from the factory 1/8" restrictor, it will spool faster and boost higher, and should peak around 16psi. Make sure to get a boost gauge though, because depending on the conditions in your area, weather, etc, it may be higher. Do not try this with any other restrictor other than the original factory one, because even an aftermarket 1/8" restrictor is too big and will cause you to boost 17psi +. That having been said, since my factory restrictor is being used elsewhere, I put in a 1/8"x1/8"x1/8" T where the factory restrictor used to be, and let a 1/8" leg just bleed to atmosphere. I get about 9-10psi in 1st, 12psi in 2nd, and peak around 15psi in the later gears. Even at max load in 5th, I never get over 16psi. Compared with a ball and spring MBC, sure, it won't spool as fast, but considering a decent mbc is about $30-40 and the pastic T is about $1.50, you make the decision. Also, while the MBC's suffer from ptfb problems, the bleeder setup leaving the factory boost controller in the system seems to neary eliminate ptfb. In fact, I TRIED to get the boost to climb under part throttle situations just to see if it would, and unless it was going up a really steep hill, it didn't and most of the time is in vacuum. I am not saying that the bleeder is the best way to go, but it is definitely the most cost effective. I plan on going with a COBB reflash sometime in the future, but this will tide me over until then. Good luck.
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