Looking to get ~285WHP fairly reliably.
#16
Originally Posted by MO REX
Wow, I’m surprised you had all those problems considering the HP and torque numbers you posted. My 02 with 98k (80kish @ stage 2) is Cobb stage 2 plus an uppipe which is around 225 WHP on a Mustang dyno and I haven’t had any problems (the original clutch is still holding strong). The first time I did an auto x event the car had SPT springs (very soft), 225/45/17 S03’s and a stoptech stage 2 brake kit. Now I have a Koni/GC setup with GC C/C plates, a RSB and the car has been through quite a few autoX’s and track days with none of the problems that you’re talking about. I don’t slam gears or go out launching my car off the line very much (no drag) so that may be why my clutch is still holding strong but I am very competitive at the track. Maybe it has something to do with tires or driving style.
Don’t get me wrong, I plan on buying a rear subframe lock kit, steering rack bushings, a FSB, an ALK and quite a few other things since I track the car but I don’t think any of that stuff is needed on a street car.
Don’t get me wrong, I plan on buying a rear subframe lock kit, steering rack bushings, a FSB, an ALK and quite a few other things since I track the car but I don’t think any of that stuff is needed on a street car.
Here's an analogy for you: it is common wisdom in the recording and music performance industry that when you need to amplify a signal, you get twice the power you need and then turn it up halfway. The closer you get to 100% amplification, the more noise, distortion and pops you will get. Similarly, bolting on a small turbo and then turning it up to 90% or greater of its peak (and doing the same to the fuel system, intake, valves, rods, transmission) is going to be a harsher and nastier result than going with a properly-sized turbo and a mild tune and a host of supporting mods. Like I said, there's more than one right answer, but there's also a path that will give you a totally comfortable, easy-to-drive car that is mild and tame on the street and still a killer on the track.
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern Bay Area: Larkspur
Posts: 1,004
Car Info: 02 Silver WRX sedan. Eibach springs, Blitz NUR cat back, Rota 17" Attacks, Cobb AccessPort/DP
If you're not already too attached to this car you just got,...sell it. Go out and buy a nice used STI. Why bust your ***** trying to get this WRX to double what the engine was born to do. You'd be so much happier just selling it for a decent price (totally stock,...hasn't been abused) and getting a nice (Stock) used STI. Then just get a turbo back exhaust and a dyno tune.
#18
Originally Posted by meilers
You could indeed strap some STI Pinks, a VF22 and an up-pipe on it and get to the 250whp level on a forgiving dyno.
The stock clutch won't survive.
Cylinder 3 will get terribly hot.
don't make me laugh and say "fuel rails."
The car will make the power of a Civic below 2200 RPM.
you are really quite funny, meilers.
At this WHP my stock cluch slips in 1st and second; the engine moves noticeably in the bay (until I installed the pitch stop) and I can feel the entire driveline flex on a launch.
2) the pitch stopper is a joke. if you REALLY want to limit engine/tranny movement, take the plunge and install engine and tranny mounts.
#19
VIP Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,245
Car Info: 02 PSM WRX
Originally Posted by WRX409
A Mustang dyno is 15-20% lower from all the dyno's I have seen.
There ya go. Use a dyno other than a mustang and you’ll go from 245-281 (250+.15) at the wheels. j/k
meilers,
When I buy home audio and guitar amplifiers I do exactly what you’re saying but I am able to turn my Marantz tuner up 100% with no distortion. Not sure how long it will last that way but it does sound crystal clear.
Just having some fun.
#20
Originally Posted by meilers
The point is not getting to 285hp at the wheels. That may be possible with the smaller turbos if you indeed are willing to accept a narrow powerband, a balky car, a smoked clutch and 90%+ injector duty cycle at WOT.
Let's recap the original post: He said he wanted one that is reliable, streetable and with a wide powerband, using the 03 WRX as a start point. You could indeed strap some STI Pinks, a VF22 and an up-pipe on it and get to the 250whp level on a forgiving dyno. The stock clutch won't survive. The engine will buck and twist in the bay on launch. The car will "lift" on throttle in the front, giving you wheel hop in corners. Cylinder 3 will get terribly hot. The car will make the power of a Civic below 2200 RPM. Once the intercooler heatsoaks, you will be back down to 220 whp (or lower).
Let's recap the original post: He said he wanted one that is reliable, streetable and with a wide powerband, using the 03 WRX as a start point. You could indeed strap some STI Pinks, a VF22 and an up-pipe on it and get to the 250whp level on a forgiving dyno. The stock clutch won't survive. The engine will buck and twist in the bay on launch. The car will "lift" on throttle in the front, giving you wheel hop in corners. Cylinder 3 will get terribly hot. The car will make the power of a Civic below 2200 RPM. Once the intercooler heatsoaks, you will be back down to 220 whp (or lower).
You mean to tell us that if you have a vf22 that makes 250whp on a FORGIVING DYNO(are you joking????), it will break motor mounts by bucking and twisting, ur clutch will die immediately, and your #3 cylinder will get hot and you will heatsoak your intercooler and THEN be as fast as a civic.
You sir are on a very large ammount of crack and/or acid.
Please try to give us GOOD info. Not some fabricated nonsense you just thought of.
Thanks
-Kevin
Last edited by i did your mom; 09-05-2006 at 03:34 PM.
#22
Originally Posted by ride5000
welcome to meiler's world...
Seems to me like Meilers needs to stop reading his little kiddie horror stories of WRX's and "problems" that they have.
Meilers, ANY engine is going to move in the engine bay when u rev it....well maybe not a civic cuz they have like 3hp....but you get the idea. Your driveline WILL move when u LAUNCH your car. But the real question is, do you launch your car everytime you start from a dead stop? didn't think so.
Like I stated earlier, stop feeding us nonsense. Half the crap u stated was WAY out there, and definitely pretty dumb.
Originally Posted by meilers
I'd love to see what a 280-to-the-wheels WRX would do to the factory RE-90s...
also, Sweet analogy.
HA!!
#23
Originally Posted by i did your mom
Are you serious bro?
You mean to tell us that if you have a vf22 that makes 250whp on a FORGIVING DYNO(are you joking????), it will break motor mounts by bucking and twisting, ur clutch will die immediately, and your #3 cylinder will get hot and you will heatsoak your intercooler and THEN be as fast as a civic.
You sir are on a very large ammount of crack and/or acid.
Please try to give us GOOD info. Not some fabricated nonsense you just thought of.
Thanks
-Kevin
You mean to tell us that if you have a vf22 that makes 250whp on a FORGIVING DYNO(are you joking????), it will break motor mounts by bucking and twisting, ur clutch will die immediately, and your #3 cylinder will get hot and you will heatsoak your intercooler and THEN be as fast as a civic.
You sir are on a very large ammount of crack and/or acid.
Please try to give us GOOD info. Not some fabricated nonsense you just thought of.
Thanks
-Kevin
I'm not certain how to break this to you, but plenty of people have destroyed their clutch, broken their motor mounts and torn bushings with a bone-stock, unmodified WRX. Do a few searches for "broken motor mounts" and you'll see this was a problem for many models and years of WRX and STI, even the 2006 STI. Similarly, there are many, many horror stories of toasted clutches, shattered syncros and wrecked transmissions -- again, with stock power.
The idea that the WRX or STI are some magical cars that are utterly bulletproof and can easily handle nearly double the stock power without endagering the engine or radically changing the way the car handles and delivers power is just some crazy pipe dream. If you want to smoke that pipe, by all means puff away. I'm suggesting -- and I don't see how this is evidence that I smoke the crack rock -- that someone who is shooting for the goal of 285 wheelpower might want to do some supporting mods and pick the right size turbo. Giving someone advice to help them protect their $22,000 investment doesn't seem like an irrational act, but yeah, I gather I'm not speaking with rational people here.
If either you or your close personal friend "ride5000" had bother to actually read the thread from beginning to end -- I know, it is a radical concept, but stay with me here, keep those two brain cells rubbing together -- you'd see that the issue here is not if you can make 285 with a VF34 or VF22; you probably could, with an extremely aggressive tune, some 93 and crossed fingers; but whether you would WANT to, and how it would affect the car. A 2.0 liter turbocharged engine that is producing almost 100hp per cylinder and 1800-degree EGTs that is still reliable and streetable is not a long-term-sustainable proposition. Even Porsche bumps their boxers to 3.6 liters before going that high, and they use GIANT turbos running surprisingly low levels of boost.
As I said numerous times in my posts in this thread, there is more than one approach to solving the problem of 250-285 WHP from the EJ20. If you want to choose a path which shortens the engine life and makes a car difficult to control, that's certainly a choice. If you want to make the car last 10 years or 85,000 miles after those mods are installed, you've got another path to follow. I don't see a problem with having more than one approach, but hey -- I'm a little different, I can have more than one thought in my head at a time.
#24
Originally Posted by meilers
Actually, I said nothing at all of the kind. Certainly no one mentioned broken motor mounts, and definitely not Civics. The mention of Civics and Civic-bashing really degrades my confidence in your post; that's kid stuff. Take it to NASOIC or some Mustang forum.
I'm not certain how to break this to you, but plenty of people have destroyed their clutch, broken their motor mounts and torn bushings with a bone-stock, unmodified WRX. Do a few searches for "broken motor mounts" and you'll see this was a problem for many models and years of WRX and STI, even the 2006 STI. Similarly, there are many, many horror stories of toasted clutches, shattered syncros and wrecked transmissions -- again, with stock power.
The idea that the WRX or STI are some magical cars that are utterly bulletproof and can easily handle nearly double the stock power without endagering the engine or radically changing the way the car handles and delivers power is just some crazy pipe dream. If you want to smoke that pipe, by all means puff away. I'm suggesting -- and I don't see how this is evidence that I smoke the crack rock -- that someone who is shooting for the goal of 285 wheelpower might want to do some supporting mods and pick the right size turbo. Giving someone advice to help them protect their $22,000 investment doesn't seem like an irrational act, but yeah, I gather I'm not speaking with rational people here.
If either you or your close personal friend "ride5000" had bother to actually read the thread from beginning to end -- I know, it is a radical concept, but stay with me here, keep those two brain cells rubbing together -- you'd see that the issue here is not if you can make 285 with a VF34 or VF22; you probably could, with an extremely aggressive tune, some 93 and crossed fingers; but whether you would WANT to, and how it would affect the car. A 2.0 liter turbocharged engine that is producing almost 100hp per cylinder and 1800-degree EGTs that is still reliable and streetable is not a long-term-sustainable proposition. Even Porsche bumps their boxers to 3.6 liters before going that high, and they use GIANT turbos running surprisingly low levels of boost.
As I said numerous times in my posts in this thread, there is more than one approach to solving the problem of 250-285 WHP from the EJ20. If you want to choose a path which shortens the engine life and makes a car difficult to control, that's certainly a choice. If you want to make the car last 10 years or 85,000 miles after those mods are installed, you've got another path to follow. I don't see a problem with having more than one approach, but hey -- I'm a little different, I can have more than one thought in my head at a time.
I'm not certain how to break this to you, but plenty of people have destroyed their clutch, broken their motor mounts and torn bushings with a bone-stock, unmodified WRX. Do a few searches for "broken motor mounts" and you'll see this was a problem for many models and years of WRX and STI, even the 2006 STI. Similarly, there are many, many horror stories of toasted clutches, shattered syncros and wrecked transmissions -- again, with stock power.
The idea that the WRX or STI are some magical cars that are utterly bulletproof and can easily handle nearly double the stock power without endagering the engine or radically changing the way the car handles and delivers power is just some crazy pipe dream. If you want to smoke that pipe, by all means puff away. I'm suggesting -- and I don't see how this is evidence that I smoke the crack rock -- that someone who is shooting for the goal of 285 wheelpower might want to do some supporting mods and pick the right size turbo. Giving someone advice to help them protect their $22,000 investment doesn't seem like an irrational act, but yeah, I gather I'm not speaking with rational people here.
If either you or your close personal friend "ride5000" had bother to actually read the thread from beginning to end -- I know, it is a radical concept, but stay with me here, keep those two brain cells rubbing together -- you'd see that the issue here is not if you can make 285 with a VF34 or VF22; you probably could, with an extremely aggressive tune, some 93 and crossed fingers; but whether you would WANT to, and how it would affect the car. A 2.0 liter turbocharged engine that is producing almost 100hp per cylinder and 1800-degree EGTs that is still reliable and streetable is not a long-term-sustainable proposition. Even Porsche bumps their boxers to 3.6 liters before going that high, and they use GIANT turbos running surprisingly low levels of boost.
As I said numerous times in my posts in this thread, there is more than one approach to solving the problem of 250-285 WHP from the EJ20. If you want to choose a path which shortens the engine life and makes a car difficult to control, that's certainly a choice. If you want to make the car last 10 years or 85,000 miles after those mods are installed, you've got another path to follow. I don't see a problem with having more than one approach, but hey -- I'm a little different, I can have more than one thought in my head at a time.
i have never met mo rex, or i did your mom, nor do i know them. however, they apparently are starting to see through your smoke and mirror show. only a complete moron would suggest an FPred to reach a goal of 280whp.
#25
Well, as for reliable power: My car ran 250 at the wheels on 93 pump at 17 psi with a VF30 and APS TMIC for over 50,000 miles. I then went to a VF22 and made 282 at the wheels on 17.5 psi. This was on a Mustang Dyno where a stock STI made 250-255 at the wheels and a WRX usually did 195 stock.
I went back to stock before moving to go overseas 2 years ago, and now that I am back I will be running another VF22 with an FMIC and my car still has the clutch that came in it from the factory at 90,000 miles (although I'm going to finally change it in a few weeks here).
I was really careful when the car was tuned to be as conservative as possible, hence not running very much boost and being conservative with the timing too. Remember, there is nothing that says a 2.0 liter making 300+ at the crank is overly stressed just because it left the factory making 227.
I went back to stock before moving to go overseas 2 years ago, and now that I am back I will be running another VF22 with an FMIC and my car still has the clutch that came in it from the factory at 90,000 miles (although I'm going to finally change it in a few weeks here).
I was really careful when the car was tuned to be as conservative as possible, hence not running very much boost and being conservative with the timing too. Remember, there is nothing that says a 2.0 liter making 300+ at the crank is overly stressed just because it left the factory making 227.
#26
Originally Posted by meilers
Actually, I said nothing at all of the kind. Certainly no one mentioned broken motor mounts, and definitely not Civics. The mention of Civics and Civic-bashing really degrades my confidence in your post; that's kid stuff. Take it to NASOIC or some Mustang forum.
Originally Posted by meilers
The car will make the power of a Civic below 2200 RPM. Once the intercooler heatsoaks, you will be back down to 220 whp (or lower).
Own3d
Originally Posted by meilers
I'm not certain how to break this to you, but plenty of people have destroyed their clutch, broken their motor mounts and torn bushings with a bone-stock, unmodified WRX. Do a few searches for "broken motor mounts" and you'll see this was a problem for many models and years of WRX and STI, even the 2006 STI. Similarly, there are many, many horror stories of toasted clutches, shattered syncros and wrecked transmissions -- again, with stock power.
Own3d again
What you need to do meilers, is instead of telling me to go to Nasioc, you should take a nice trip overthere to edumackate yourself in some NEW subaru knowledge. Seems like you are feeding us all with a bunch of garbage that little 16 year olds talk about. Go ahead and get your FP Greed or Red, whatever one you prefer, to get your 285 whp "reliably." Just let me know how the lag tastes
Tootles!!!!
#27
285whp on a 2.0L would only be difficult on 91 gas and the Gruppe-S Mustang Dyno. Some one in the SOCAL forum with APS TMIC, TBE, catless up, injectors, fp and protune did 260/260 IIRC on the GS dyno.
285 whp on a 2.0L with 93 octane or better and almost any other dyno is common place with a vf22.
(and supporting mods)
And of course running 50, 75 or 100whp more than stock will cause additional wear and tear (duh!)
285 whp on a 2.0L with 93 octane or better and almost any other dyno is common place with a vf22.
(and supporting mods)
And of course running 50, 75 or 100whp more than stock will cause additional wear and tear (duh!)
Last edited by subie OCD; 09-07-2006 at 06:21 PM.
#28
Originally Posted by i did your mom
Let me quote you from one of your ealier posts there chief wigwam.
You did mention civics, so why don't YOU go back and re-read your own post, i know, its a radical concept.....sound familiar? you would know that you did talk about civics.
You did mention civics, so why don't YOU go back and re-read your own post, i know, its a radical concept.....sound familiar? you would know that you did talk about civics.
Originally Posted by i did your mom
What you need to do meilers, is instead of telling me to go to Nasioc, you should take a nice trip overthere to edumackate yourself in some NEW subaru knowledge. Seems like you are feeding us all with a bunch of garbage that little 16 year olds talk about. Go ahead and get your FP Greed or Red, whatever one you prefer, to get your 285 whp "reliably." Just let me know how the lag tastes
Tootles!!!!
Tootles!!!!
Oh, and laughing at "your mom" jokes.
#29
too bad I never made any jokes pertaining to your mom. I am sure she is a very wonderful lady and I will leave it at that. You are just way to cool for us meilers. Please continue to grace us with you exceptional knowledge and wit dealing with WRX's and their powerplant. Obviously you know more than me, and I would just LOVE for you to keep giving us that wonderful info that we are used to.
Hope to read TONS AND TONS AND TONS of posts from you soon!
Thank you sooooo much!
Hope to read TONS AND TONS AND TONS of posts from you soon!
Thank you sooooo much!
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Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
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07-06-2004 12:24 AM