JDM V7 STI TMIC Owners Look here
#1
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
JDM V7 STI TMIC Owners Look here
My JDM V7 STI TMIC is so large that it makes direct contact with my AC line. Just wondering if any of you guys are having the same problem and how you fixed. I have since had to replace my AC line due to it being damaged by the rubbing of the intercooler on the line that was protected by BLACK foam insulation (the type that you would put on your water heater outside your house).
Since I had to replace the line when I installed the new line I bent it towards the firewall a bit (not enough to damage the line but just to put tension on it) and covered the area that got damaged before with rubber heater hose secured with a zip tie. Then i put the water heater hose BLACK foam insulation back on and secured it with electrical tape.
Any suggestions would be great as I'm not trying to replace this hose weekly or monthly for that matter. Driving without AC sucks especially when it's raining or hot out
This is what the line used to look like. Of course I ddin't drive like this but this can give you a good idea of how close the intercooler is to the firewall and that it's making direct contact with the AC line though that ****ty foam that I was using BEFORE the BLACK foam heater insulation was used.
Jon
Since I had to replace the line when I installed the new line I bent it towards the firewall a bit (not enough to damage the line but just to put tension on it) and covered the area that got damaged before with rubber heater hose secured with a zip tie. Then i put the water heater hose BLACK foam insulation back on and secured it with electrical tape.
Any suggestions would be great as I'm not trying to replace this hose weekly or monthly for that matter. Driving without AC sucks especially when it's raining or hot out
This is what the line used to look like. Of course I ddin't drive like this but this can give you a good idea of how close the intercooler is to the firewall and that it's making direct contact with the AC line though that ****ty foam that I was using BEFORE the BLACK foam heater insulation was used.
Jon
Last edited by iNfEk; 07-22-2006 at 06:58 PM.
#2
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Car Info: 2018 Forester XT Touring (Dark Gray Metallic)
I heard rattling almost immediately after installing my JDM TMIC. At first it was my GT-Spec strut bar rattling against a corner of the TMIC. But after removing that and replacing it with one that would clear it (JDM STI Titanium bar)...there was still another vibration. Isolated it to the AC line touching the back of the TMIC. Went to Orchard Supply Hardware and found some thick pipe foam tubing and zip tied some around the AC lines. Took care of most of the rattles. If the engine shakes hard I still get a few rattles, but nothing like before. For the most part no more contact.
Last edited by DomozitoLK; 07-29-2006 at 06:30 AM.
#3
Ha, I just told Rob about this the other day. It is a problem. I have no idea how I even have AC. I'm certain it is only a matter of time til it goes out. I zip tied a 3/4" piece of rubber hose around it. Justin's A/C went due due to this problem. I have't checked to see if the A/C line in the STi is in a different location. I would have to believe that it is in a different location on JDM models.
#4
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Originally Posted by ipozestu
Ha, I just told Rob about this the other day. It is a problem.
Originally Posted by ipozestu
I would have to believe that it is in a different location on JDM models.
The S204 in this pic shows the AC line extending out past the TMIC toward the left of the engine bay. Further thsn our USDM cars.
Last edited by DomozitoLK; 07-29-2006 at 09:05 AM.
#6
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
thank for the reply!
I did do something similar to rectify the situation. before fully attaching the A/C line to firewall area, I attached it to the A/C compressor with the bolt and ran the line back. I layed out how the line was going to sit. I also secured the A/C line bracket on the drivers side on a lower threaded hole. It took some time to get it fitted correctly but I was able to get the line attached. I secured it so it wouldn't move and then proceeded to adjust the A/C line on the passenger side. before finally attaching I used 5/8" heater hose from checkers to wrap around the affected area then holding it in place with 2 black large zip ties. I then got heater insulation foam from home depot and cut it to size. I wrapped the foam insulation around the heater hose that I just put in place and secured it with electrical tap. I tried making it as tight as possible so that the insulation would be a dense enough to with stand a lot of rubbing. FINALLY before attaching it with all of this protection to the A/C line done I held the A/C line with 2 hand and started to put tension on the A/C line TOWARDS the firewall so that the line would sit more flush against it. I think it worked a little.
I'll posted pictures in a bit
Thanks for the additional info and if anyone has a full proof way to solve this or the part number for the JDM line or a longer US A/C line that would be awesome!
Jon
I did do something similar to rectify the situation. before fully attaching the A/C line to firewall area, I attached it to the A/C compressor with the bolt and ran the line back. I layed out how the line was going to sit. I also secured the A/C line bracket on the drivers side on a lower threaded hole. It took some time to get it fitted correctly but I was able to get the line attached. I secured it so it wouldn't move and then proceeded to adjust the A/C line on the passenger side. before finally attaching I used 5/8" heater hose from checkers to wrap around the affected area then holding it in place with 2 black large zip ties. I then got heater insulation foam from home depot and cut it to size. I wrapped the foam insulation around the heater hose that I just put in place and secured it with electrical tap. I tried making it as tight as possible so that the insulation would be a dense enough to with stand a lot of rubbing. FINALLY before attaching it with all of this protection to the A/C line done I held the A/C line with 2 hand and started to put tension on the A/C line TOWARDS the firewall so that the line would sit more flush against it. I think it worked a little.
I'll posted pictures in a bit
Thanks for the additional info and if anyone has a full proof way to solve this or the part number for the JDM line or a longer US A/C line that would be awesome!
Jon
#8
i have this EXACT same problem on my bugeye! only difference is that i have a V8 STi TMIC in it. i used a kinda insulation foam to keep it from rubbing after having to replace the AC line, just like the original poster. it rattles against my GTspec strut bar as well. is there anyway to possibly move the mounting brakets just barely to get it not to rub? one of my friends also wanted me to try zip tying the AC line to something on the firewall or possibly drilling small holes in the firewall to mount the zip ties.
would it hurt the AC line to bend it?
would it hurt the AC line to bend it?
#9
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
the A/C line is made out of thin metal. it will hurt the A/C line if you bend it to much. I did on the drivers side move my bracket down to the next screw hold further down if that helps.
The other thing that I'm going to do is go to a local shop here in Hawaii called hydra air pacific. they deal with all kinds of things including brake lines and high pressure hoses...etc. I'm going to see if i can get them to EXTEND my A/C line (broken one) and recreate teh damaged area.
I don't know how much it'll cost me but if it does the trick and i can get away from foam/rubber/electrical tape as a solution then i'd pay the price. anythings better than replaceing a $160 A/C every week
The other thing that I'm going to do is go to a local shop here in Hawaii called hydra air pacific. they deal with all kinds of things including brake lines and high pressure hoses...etc. I'm going to see if i can get them to EXTEND my A/C line (broken one) and recreate teh damaged area.
I don't know how much it'll cost me but if it does the trick and i can get away from foam/rubber/electrical tape as a solution then i'd pay the price. anythings better than replaceing a $160 A/C every week
#10
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Just wanted to see how the different solutions have worked out long term. My foam padding didn't work and still eventually wore a groove in my AC line and had to have it replaced. I guess the padding lasted me a little over a month. Going to have to find a better solution. Thinking rubber coolant tubing or something more resiliant. Any other suggestions?
#14
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
STI V7 does.
I think I might have found a solution. It'll cost us but It looks to be a valid one. If you look at the 04/05 STI A/C line it goes beyond the intercooler and is much longer than the one that we've got on our cars. I will be looking up the part number for the STI A/C line and be replacing it with a new one. Of course if you don't know what you're doing with A/C then I would go and see a professional.
Jon
I think I might have found a solution. It'll cost us but It looks to be a valid one. If you look at the 04/05 STI A/C line it goes beyond the intercooler and is much longer than the one that we've got on our cars. I will be looking up the part number for the STI A/C line and be replacing it with a new one. Of course if you don't know what you're doing with A/C then I would go and see a professional.
Jon
#15
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I bought some 5/8" rubber heater hose at Orchard Supply Hardware and wrapped it around the A/C pipe. Just to be sure it won't rub through anytime soon...I doubled up the rubber hose around the low-pressure valve and another piece around that. So it's triple protected on the rub-side. Hopefully that will be better protection than the soft foam insulated tubing I used before. I'll be keeping my eye on it. So far going around the block I haven't heard any rattling.