gutted uppipe EGT BUNG!
#1
Guest
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gutted uppipe EGT BUNG!
OKAY, i am about to give up, i live in SF and i tried numrous places, i.e: kragen, home depot, ace hardware etc.
i know thw bolt has to be m12 x 1.25 to plug in the bung but the thing is the slot of tapered. Where can i purchase a tapered bolt like that? I already bought a regular 12x 1.25 bolt and i only twist twice and it gets suck
For ppl who installed their own gutted UPPIPES, what you guys do
i know thw bolt has to be m12 x 1.25 to plug in the bung but the thing is the slot of tapered. Where can i purchase a tapered bolt like that? I already bought a regular 12x 1.25 bolt and i only twist twice and it gets suck
For ppl who installed their own gutted UPPIPES, what you guys do
#2
if anything you can just slap on the sensor for now and put on the resistor mod until you find the right nut.
its hard to find that nut. the best places to look for are the mom and pop stores.
gluck
its hard to find that nut. the best places to look for are the mom and pop stores.
gluck
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,859
From: Flying on the H1 w/ 75 psi of compression on all 4 cyl
Car Info: PnP VF30 w/ STi injectors Perrin intake walbro fuel pump w/ a TXS TBE
I had a gutted uppipe for abot a year w/ the sensor in there and had no problems. i even put an aftermarket upipe in and still have the sensor in, thats about 15,000 miles with the sensor in a gutted/aftermarket uppipe. But when i do my turbo swap im gonna just cut off the sensor and put the 2.2 ohm resistor on.
#4
i did the same as mario, i cut off the sensor, still plugged it into the aftermarket uppipe just to cover the hole. bought a2.2k resistor pack from radio shack for a dollar, and ive been driving for 2000 miles no problems
#6
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are you sure that you didn't accidentally buy a m12x 125 mm long... the bolt length doesn't really matter as long as it's 1.25 pitch (pitch determines what kind of threads are on the bolt) just make sure that you buy a nut that fits the bolt also and put them together before you put it into the uppipe. this will let you set the bolt to what ever depth you need and there won't be any of it blocking the pipe
#7
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,859
From: Flying on the H1 w/ 75 psi of compression on all 4 cyl
Car Info: PnP VF30 w/ STi injectors Perrin intake walbro fuel pump w/ a TXS TBE
Originally posted by ****
when u gut ur pipe, don't u already need a 2.2 ohm in place?
when u gut ur pipe, don't u already need a 2.2 ohm in place?
#8
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Re: gutted uppipe EGT BUNG!
Originally posted by ****
OKAY, i am about to give up, i live in SF and i tried numrous places, i.e: kragen, home depot, ace hardware etc.
i know thw bolt has to be m12 x 1.25 to plug in the bung but the thing is the slot of tapered. Where can i purchase a tapered bolt like that? I already bought a regular 12x 1.25 bolt and i only twist twice and it gets suck
For ppl who installed their own gutted UPPIPES, what you guys do
OKAY, i am about to give up, i live in SF and i tried numrous places, i.e: kragen, home depot, ace hardware etc.
i know thw bolt has to be m12 x 1.25 to plug in the bung but the thing is the slot of tapered. Where can i purchase a tapered bolt like that? I already bought a regular 12x 1.25 bolt and i only twist twice and it gets suck
For ppl who installed their own gutted UPPIPES, what you guys do
#9
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 857
From: -----------------
Car Info: .............................................................................
It is a 2200 ohm resistor....
It is a 2.2K ohm resistor.....
It is a two thousand two hundred ohm resistor.
It is NOT a 2.2 ohm resistor.....DAMN IT.
And if the bolt only threads in 1/2 inch and stops, ya got the wrong bolt.
The stock probe WILL fail, just give it enough time and it WILL fail.
It is a 2.2K ohm resistor.....
It is a two thousand two hundred ohm resistor.
It is NOT a 2.2 ohm resistor.....DAMN IT.
And if the bolt only threads in 1/2 inch and stops, ya got the wrong bolt.
The stock probe WILL fail, just give it enough time and it WILL fail.
#10
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Originally posted by Uncle Scotty
And if the bolt only threads in 1/2 inch and stops, ya got the wrong bolt.
The stock probe WILL fail, just give it enough time and it WILL fail.
And if the bolt only threads in 1/2 inch and stops, ya got the wrong bolt.
The stock probe WILL fail, just give it enough time and it WILL fail.
#12
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 857
From: -----------------
Car Info: .............................................................................
Ok...so I never f'ed with the stock UP....if the bolt only threads 1/2" then ya better use some sort of JB Weld or whatever on it, or it's gonna back out on ya. Hell...tack weld it to the bung would be best, after it is torqued down good.
And, Mario....RTFP.
And, Mario....RTFP.
#13
hey wait I'm confused....
So I just need to go to radio shack and get a 2.2k resistor, solder it inline with the probe, and it'll be all good for the rest of eternity?
Or do I actually have to remove and plug it up?
So I just need to go to radio shack and get a 2.2k resistor, solder it inline with the probe, and it'll be all good for the rest of eternity?
Or do I actually have to remove and plug it up?
#14
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Originally posted by verc
hey wait I'm confused....
So I just need to go to radio shack and get a 2.2k resistor, solder it inline with the probe, and it'll be all good for the rest of eternity?
Or do I actually have to remove and plug it up?
hey wait I'm confused....
So I just need to go to radio shack and get a 2.2k resistor, solder it inline with the probe, and it'll be all good for the rest of eternity?
Or do I actually have to remove and plug it up?
#15
Originally posted by hackjar
You need to put the 2.2k resistor inline with the harness that is connected to the car not the half of the harness connected to the probe. You don't even have to solder it, just disconnect the probe at the harness and slot the wires of the resistor into the two holes on the car-side harness and wrap it up with electical tape. Remove the egt probe from the pipe (with it's wire and harness) and put an M12 x 1.25 bolt in its place. Torque it down to 30lb-ft and you'll be fine. Trust me, it will not come undone and there is no need to use a thread lock or other glue, it would burn up due to the heat anyway.
You need to put the 2.2k resistor inline with the harness that is connected to the car not the half of the harness connected to the probe. You don't even have to solder it, just disconnect the probe at the harness and slot the wires of the resistor into the two holes on the car-side harness and wrap it up with electical tape. Remove the egt probe from the pipe (with it's wire and harness) and put an M12 x 1.25 bolt in its place. Torque it down to 30lb-ft and you'll be fine. Trust me, it will not come undone and there is no need to use a thread lock or other glue, it would burn up due to the heat anyway.
O ok, so this is at the ECU where I lift up my passenger floormat right?
Is there a diagram somewhere? I have the fsm