Grounding mod?
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
"If you connected two grounding wires to the same point, which has less resistance -- the pure copper grounding wires, or the steel or aluminum frame member or engine block? The copper wire, of course. Thus, the electricity would simply continue through the copper wire, and not exit at the ground point."
Actually, the resistance of two wires in parallel, is less than the resistance than either of the two individual wires.
I can post a nice formula for it if you like.
Actually, the resistance of two wires in parallel, is less than the resistance than either of the two individual wires.
I can post a nice formula for it if you like.
#18
Originally posted by OldGuy
"If you connected two grounding wires to the same point, which has less resistance -- the pure copper grounding wires, or the steel or aluminum frame member or engine block? The copper wire, of course. Thus, the electricity would simply continue through the copper wire, and not exit at the ground point."
Actually, the resistance of two wires in parallel, is less than the resistance than either of the two individual wires.
I can post a nice formula for it if you like.
"If you connected two grounding wires to the same point, which has less resistance -- the pure copper grounding wires, or the steel or aluminum frame member or engine block? The copper wire, of course. Thus, the electricity would simply continue through the copper wire, and not exit at the ground point."
Actually, the resistance of two wires in parallel, is less than the resistance than either of the two individual wires.
I can post a nice formula for it if you like.
Considering the cost of these kits (and the markup over what the wire itself would cost if you just bought it bulk) I'm just skeptical that you need that much wire with that large gague to make an effective ground. And as I noted in the other thread, I have seen the effects of an improperly grounded car (DEAD BATTERY) firsthand -- you don't solve an electrical problem by just throwing wire at it!
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Long Island New York
Posts: 29
Car Info: 2003 wrx impreza wagon silver
Grounding Mod Complete.
Thank you to all the fine people on I-Club who have given me the knowledge and insight on how to do the grounding mod
After reading many different way's on how to do this mod i've decided to do it this way:
For $50 dollars i made my own kit using:
1) 1 gold plated battery terminal with 2 top mounted 5/16 bolts for attaching ring connectors.from auto zone.
2) 18' of 8 gauge wire only used about 14' from sounddomain.com
3) 3' of 4 gauge wire.sounddomain.com
4) 12 gold plated 5/16 ring connectors for 8 gauge wire.sound domain.
5) 2' shrink tubing. from local harware store.
I used 5 grounding points ommiting the strut towers because i felt the rubber bushings made for a bad ground. I will however in the future add the 2 strut grounds to see if there is a difference.
5 grounding points i used are: All 8 gauge wire.
1) DS fender next to battery.
2) PS fender next to air box.
3) DS intake manifold.
4) PS intake manifold.
5) Firewall behind the intercooler.
What i did differently is replace the stock 8 gauge battery wire that grounds to the MGP (main grounding point) located underneath the intercooler on the engine block, with 4 gauge wire. Also replacing the stock 8 gauge DS fender ground with 8 gauge wire and gold connectors i made from my kit.
Results:
a) no difference starting in cold weather.
b) no differnence at idle.
c) lights slightly brigher.
d) noticable difference through-out RPM range...much smoother.
After reading many different way's on how to do this mod i've decided to do it this way:
For $50 dollars i made my own kit using:
1) 1 gold plated battery terminal with 2 top mounted 5/16 bolts for attaching ring connectors.from auto zone.
2) 18' of 8 gauge wire only used about 14' from sounddomain.com
3) 3' of 4 gauge wire.sounddomain.com
4) 12 gold plated 5/16 ring connectors for 8 gauge wire.sound domain.
5) 2' shrink tubing. from local harware store.
I used 5 grounding points ommiting the strut towers because i felt the rubber bushings made for a bad ground. I will however in the future add the 2 strut grounds to see if there is a difference.
5 grounding points i used are: All 8 gauge wire.
1) DS fender next to battery.
2) PS fender next to air box.
3) DS intake manifold.
4) PS intake manifold.
5) Firewall behind the intercooler.
What i did differently is replace the stock 8 gauge battery wire that grounds to the MGP (main grounding point) located underneath the intercooler on the engine block, with 4 gauge wire. Also replacing the stock 8 gauge DS fender ground with 8 gauge wire and gold connectors i made from my kit.
Results:
a) no difference starting in cold weather.
b) no differnence at idle.
c) lights slightly brigher.
d) noticable difference through-out RPM range...much smoother.
#23
www.paranoidfabrications.com makes them for a good price i got mine from there. When you say you feel nothing its because its not supposed to be a bigger turbo just smooth out the rpms and kinda make it a nicer engine feel(yea that doent make sense but basically what it does)
oh yea the link i posted the guy sells em for 30 bucks so woulda been cheaper to get it form him hah
oh yea the link i posted the guy sells em for 30 bucks so woulda been cheaper to get it form him hah
#24
when i ghettorigged my grounding mod, i felt jack ish. although i didnt get shocked anymore! i used to get shocked from the key while its still in the ignition. but that happens on rare occasions.
#25
I would pay 150 just to not get shocked anymore. Am I the only one who uses the ghetto method of touching the window and holding it till my foot touches the ground. I get shocked everytime if I dont.
Im one of those weird people who cant wear watches either. If I wear an electronic watch for a few days, it dies. IM A FREAK OF NATURE!!!
Im one of those weird people who cant wear watches either. If I wear an electronic watch for a few days, it dies. IM A FREAK OF NATURE!!!
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by zunus
I would pay 150 just to not get shocked anymore. Am I the only one who uses the ghetto method of touching the window and holding it till my foot touches the ground. I get shocked everytime if I dont.
Im one of those weird people who cant wear watches either. If I wear an electronic watch for a few days, it dies. IM A FREAK OF NATURE!!!
I would pay 150 just to not get shocked anymore. Am I the only one who uses the ghetto method of touching the window and holding it till my foot touches the ground. I get shocked everytime if I dont.
Im one of those weird people who cant wear watches either. If I wear an electronic watch for a few days, it dies. IM A FREAK OF NATURE!!!
This is a result of the static electricity that builds up from your butt rubbing on the seat and the difference in potential between you and the earth when you get out.
Since the car (and your butt) are insulated from earth by the tires, there's nowhere for it to drain until you get out, all charged up, and touch something that is grounded.
The voltage will vary depending on humidity (More humidity, less static. That's why it's worse in winter when the humidity is normally lower), the material in the clothes you're wearing, etc.
You can, however, spray the seats and carpet with some "ClingFree" about once a week and it will help a lot. It's a little hokey, but you can also rub the seat with a dryer sheet and it will help. A mixture of fabric softener and water also make a good spray.
#30
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lawrence, Kansas
Posts: 1,644
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
The way I figure it is if one little ground of all the many they have can effect so much:
http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/GroundsInfoS00.pdf
Having more and better ones can't hurt.
http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/GroundsInfoS00.pdf
Having more and better ones can't hurt.