got rid of my airbox silencer......
#1
Guest
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got rid of my airbox silencer......
that was really easy, just like everyone said!!!! it only took me about 30 minutes from start to finish to get it out. in the end i decided to hack the silincer off and close the hole back up. at some point i might just get rid of everything and see how that works!!! i can hear the turbo better now.....it feels like it spools up a little faster but it's really hard to tell. in the end, it's always fun hacking up a car with less than 500 miles on it....haha!!!! later, riggs
#4
Guest
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I did the same thing, plugged the hole up after hacking it off. However this may interest you:
Air flow systems
Just for the summer, I bought a piece of 4" Air tubing and a 4"-3" adapter with a 90degree bend in it and shove that into the factory box. The Pipe just hangs in the inner fender. Gets more air to the system but doesen't throw a CEL light like some CAIs do.
Air flow systems
Just for the summer, I bought a piece of 4" Air tubing and a 4"-3" adapter with a 90degree bend in it and shove that into the factory box. The Pipe just hangs in the inner fender. Gets more air to the system but doesen't throw a CEL light like some CAIs do.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey, I did the same thing, didnt plug the hole though. i was wondering, if i put the air scoop back on to send air into the fender would it matter? Does that "ram air" scoop right under the front of the hood have a purpose. thinking that maybe puting a tube to like rexorama was saying might be a good.
sam,
sam,
#6
yo guys i took mine out tonight it took about 30 minutes.. after i got everything put togather i remembered i forgot to affix the gray thingie on the back of my fog lamp so i get to take it appart again tomorrow
sounds sweet too. mostly at boosted rpms
sounds sweet too. mostly at boosted rpms
#7
Re: got rid of my airbox silencer......
Originally posted by jriggs
that was really easy, just like everyone said!!!! it only took me about 30 minutes from start to finish to get it out. in the end i decided to hack the silincer off and close the hole back up. at some point i might just get rid of everything and see how that works!!! i can hear the turbo better now.....it feels like it spools up a little faster but it's really hard to tell. in the end, it's always fun hacking up a car with less than 500 miles on it....haha!!!! later, riggs
that was really easy, just like everyone said!!!! it only took me about 30 minutes from start to finish to get it out. in the end i decided to hack the silincer off and close the hole back up. at some point i might just get rid of everything and see how that works!!! i can hear the turbo better now.....it feels like it spools up a little faster but it's really hard to tell. in the end, it's always fun hacking up a car with less than 500 miles on it....haha!!!! later, riggs
#8
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 568
From: busy writing log of best roads in CA.
Car Info: 2002 WRX Sedan
The controversy of removing the intake resonator. I removed mine last spring, but left the cold air scoop (mounts to radiator header) in place. I saw a link on Scoobymods where somebody added a large-radiused 3" velocity stack to the stock air-filter-box, through the hole in the engine compartment wall. I ordered on of these stacks from Summit (about $30), and mounted to the rubber mount that orig held the resonator (had to drill 8mm hole in stack). It is a clean installation, wheter the stack adds any major increase is doubtful, but it has to allow more air to the stock box than the resonator. I think about it this way: Subaru designed the car to use the resonator for SILENCING, so they could sell the car to anybody, including conservatively minded drivers that don't want to hear that intake growl and turbo whoosh (like we do), and Subaru did their best to restrcit air flow as little as possible (?), but according to AG Bell's "Forced Induction" book, the silncer is extremely hurtful to flow, especially at high rpm. A scientific way to confirm this is to rig up some sort of water manometer and measure the pressure drop before (at the air scoop) and after the silencer (at the air filter box). I have considered swiss-chessing the black palstic bezel that surrounds the RH foglamp, in an effort to allow cold air into the fender cavity, but I keep hearing these horror stories about cold air driving the MAF sensor wacko. WHY IS THIS? Conventional wisdom has always said that cold, dense air aids power production, and the stock resonator IS a cold air system, isn't it? It would be easy enough to measure air temps, maybe I'll do this and get back to you (ever seen a Polder temperature probe?)
#10
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Bimthecat
Hey, I did the same thing, didnt plug the hole though. i was wondering, if i put the air scoop back on to send air into the fender would it matter? Does that "ram air" scoop right under the front of the hood have a purpose. thinking that maybe puting a tube to like rexorama was saying might be a good.
sam,
Hey, I did the same thing, didnt plug the hole though. i was wondering, if i put the air scoop back on to send air into the fender would it matter? Does that "ram air" scoop right under the front of the hood have a purpose. thinking that maybe puting a tube to like rexorama was saying might be a good.
sam,
#11
Originally posted by ccdelro
Check your air filter after 2 or 3 mos. Mine was dirty with black soot. That fender/wheel well area where you get most of your air is dirty as hell. . . . . thus I went and got a prefabricated elbow that attaches to the ram-scoop . . . . . .
Check your air filter after 2 or 3 mos. Mine was dirty with black soot. That fender/wheel well area where you get most of your air is dirty as hell. . . . . thus I went and got a prefabricated elbow that attaches to the ram-scoop . . . . . .
yo can i hear somemore about this ?
#12
Originally posted by jimr
The controversy of removing the intake resonator. I removed mine last spring, but left the cold air scoop (mounts to radiator header) in place. I saw a link on Scoobymods where somebody added a large-radiused 3" velocity stack to the stock air-filter-box, through the hole in the engine compartment wall. I ordered on of these stacks from Summit (about $30), and mounted to the rubber mount that orig held the resonator (had to drill 8mm hole in stack). It is a clean installation, wheter the stack adds any major increase is doubtful, but it has to allow more air to the stock box than the resonator. I think about it this way: Subaru designed the car to use the resonator for SILENCING, so they could sell the car to anybody, including conservatively minded drivers that don't want to hear that intake growl and turbo whoosh (like we do), and Subaru did their best to restrcit air flow as little as possible (?), but according to AG Bell's "Forced Induction" book, the silncer is extremely hurtful to flow, especially at high rpm. A scientific way to confirm this is to rig up some sort of water manometer and measure the pressure drop before (at the air scoop) and after the silencer (at the air filter box). I have considered swiss-chessing the black palstic bezel that surrounds the RH foglamp, in an effort to allow cold air into the fender cavity, but I keep hearing these horror stories about cold air driving the MAF sensor wacko. WHY IS THIS? Conventional wisdom has always said that cold, dense air aids power production, and the stock resonator IS a cold air system, isn't it? It would be easy enough to measure air temps, maybe I'll do this and get back to you (ever seen a Polder temperature probe?)
The controversy of removing the intake resonator. I removed mine last spring, but left the cold air scoop (mounts to radiator header) in place. I saw a link on Scoobymods where somebody added a large-radiused 3" velocity stack to the stock air-filter-box, through the hole in the engine compartment wall. I ordered on of these stacks from Summit (about $30), and mounted to the rubber mount that orig held the resonator (had to drill 8mm hole in stack). It is a clean installation, wheter the stack adds any major increase is doubtful, but it has to allow more air to the stock box than the resonator. I think about it this way: Subaru designed the car to use the resonator for SILENCING, so they could sell the car to anybody, including conservatively minded drivers that don't want to hear that intake growl and turbo whoosh (like we do), and Subaru did their best to restrcit air flow as little as possible (?), but according to AG Bell's "Forced Induction" book, the silncer is extremely hurtful to flow, especially at high rpm. A scientific way to confirm this is to rig up some sort of water manometer and measure the pressure drop before (at the air scoop) and after the silencer (at the air filter box). I have considered swiss-chessing the black palstic bezel that surrounds the RH foglamp, in an effort to allow cold air into the fender cavity, but I keep hearing these horror stories about cold air driving the MAF sensor wacko. WHY IS THIS? Conventional wisdom has always said that cold, dense air aids power production, and the stock resonator IS a cold air system, isn't it? It would be easy enough to measure air temps, maybe I'll do this and get back to you (ever seen a Polder temperature probe?)
oh good grief look at the diameter of your turbo inlet.
I never seen more bone headed statements as I have
with this worthless silencer "mod".
Why don't we remove our hoods, and not even run an
air filter? That way our massive 2.0L engines will get
all the air they need!
#13
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 568
From: busy writing log of best roads in CA.
Car Info: 2002 WRX Sedan
boneheaded? Maybe you should contribute some USEFUL information instead of typing some insulting remarks. What does the diameter of the compressor inlet have to do with the temperature of the air entering it? Did I advise to remove the air filter? Anybody with any EXPERIENCE in tuning any four-cycle engine knows that the engine is a glorified air pump, and that any improvements made to reduce air-flow restriction, will in turn improve cylinder filling VE (which, obviously will improve bmep, and from here it is very easy to find our way to more torque, and if we can spin more rpm, horsepower is the product. I have spent a good 11 years building and tuning n/a "street" engines that were exceeding bmep of 180psi, making over 1.6hp per cubic inch, strictly through improving airflow and matching the airflow characteristics to appropiate valve-timing-events. Come on, it is obvious Subaru designed the air inlet system to muffle intake roar (look at the shape of the resonator, OBVIOUSLY it wasn't configured for airflow), not improve cylinder filling and VE.
And as far as 2.0 liter engines and their intake air demands: consider this: MOST of the engines I have been involved with have utilized intake systems that made full use of over 1000cfm capability of twin Weber 48mm carburetors AND were 2000cc or less. Some have made just over 100hp per liter. Yes naturally aspirated. I suggest you back up your comments with some info. According to my sources, the stock inake silencer is responsible for a pressure drop of 36in of water at 7000rpm, or approx 1.3psi, and that is before the air filter element and the MAF sensor.
And as far as 2.0 liter engines and their intake air demands: consider this: MOST of the engines I have been involved with have utilized intake systems that made full use of over 1000cfm capability of twin Weber 48mm carburetors AND were 2000cc or less. Some have made just over 100hp per liter. Yes naturally aspirated. I suggest you back up your comments with some info. According to my sources, the stock inake silencer is responsible for a pressure drop of 36in of water at 7000rpm, or approx 1.3psi, and that is before the air filter element and the MAF sensor.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by wrxman69
oh good grief look at the diameter of your turbo inlet.
I never seen more bone headed statements as I have
with this worthless silencer "mod".
Why don't we remove our hoods, and not even run an
air filter? That way our massive 2.0L engines will get
all the air they need!
oh good grief look at the diameter of your turbo inlet.
I never seen more bone headed statements as I have
with this worthless silencer "mod".
Why don't we remove our hoods, and not even run an
air filter? That way our massive 2.0L engines will get
all the air they need!
#15
I took mine off too, the easiest way to get to the bolt that holds the silencer on is to take out your fog light, big help. And i took all that other **** out like the air scoop and all of the silnecer ****. I can hear my stock bov pretty good too. i atempted to make sort of a ram air/cold air intake thing, running from the fog light hole to the air box, but it didn't help much.