ruehl

iTrader: (19)

So i'm finally going mod my 05 wrx, i think...

I just want a little more power to go with mu suspension/brake mods.

The exhaust i know i'm going get is a trust DD catback with a jdm v8 downpipe.

Other than that I don't know what i should get or what is worth it.

Should i get an STI TMIC and a bigger intake or should i just stay with my stock IC and intake.

Are there any other mods i should get, turbo inlet, uppipe, etc?

Also, how should I go about tuning it? Should i get a AP or just have a shop tune it?

Irish_car_B0mb

iTrader: (3)

how about getting a MT... *runs away laughing*

ruehl

iTrader: (19)

I know where you sleep at night

kusogaki

I changed out my uppipe with a PDE uppipe. Its like a perrin one. Noticed some good gain. I wouldnt recommend a inlet pipe till later. APS intakes are nice. Im running a SPT intake cause the sound and my Injen fm wont let me run anything else. Dont run a cold air intake. If you have the money then i would run the STI top mount over the wrx one and change out the Y piping on the back.

nic3krnnamja83

iTrader: (8)

Cobb Accesport, I learned the hard way those mods are worthless without a tune. Especially the pesky CEL goes away.


Upipe, Turboback, Intake (take it or leave it) but stick with Cobb or SPT. STi Top mount if you really want, but then you need a hoodscoop and splitter, which is more money.

CHESTON

iTrader: (19)

would have to agree with ^^^

get the ECU management first. Uppipe after that if you want better powerband and/or change the sound.

powerwise, i went:

1. Cat-back first
2. Downpipe and AP + tune
3. Uppipe and re-tune.

I'm quite happy with the results and, even stock turbo, the response is very nice!

regarding intercooler, while it helps, i recommend putting that after ECU management and uppipe.

Have fun modding!

ruehl

iTrader: (19)

Thx I already have the sti hood scoop and splitter but i'm going get engine management no matter what but what would be a good up pipe to go with?

strider327

iTrader: (10)

Yeah definitely go with a version 1 accessport for your year specifically. Then go with a catless up-pipe, catted or catless downpipe open bellmouth design and a catback.

I would go with a grimmspeed up-pipe.
Downpipes, you have a large selection but some of the favorites are: Helix, Titek, Invidia, Cobb, HKS just to name a few. For the up-pipe selection you have to think about it for a bit, if you plan on upgrading more in the future for example running an external wastegate you might wanna get the external wastegate up-pipe with the plate to block off the opening until you get a external wastegate setup.

Concillian

iTrader: (2)

Uppipe is a safety thing. You start tuning, EGT goes up, you start risking breaking up the cat... and if the cat breaks up, it goes into the turbo. Turbos are allergic to cats, if they eat them it upsets their insides.
Of course, an uppipe helps power too, but it's more than just that.

I like the gutted stock uppipe, it's stealthy, durable, and has shown performance similar to aftermarket options, all for virtually free since people have them sitting in their garage and are happy when you offer them a $20-40 to reduce their clutter (which lets you gut it beforehand when you have plenty of time, then sell yours to recoup your initial cost.)

IMO start with:
UP
Down
stock cat-back exhaust
Engine management (Open Source and UTEC are the most flexible, but require some serious learning if you don't want to screw up your engine. AP is "easy" but you have to be a little more careful what mods you run unless you get it tuned by someone else. Off the shelf maps won't work for everything, people blow engines by running OTS maps with incorrect mods.)

Engine management is the doozey. Everyone like to take baby steps because they don't have a wad of cash sitting around to buy $5k of mods all at once, but then you have to balance that with wanting to re-tune the car for every mod. If you aren't doing that tuning yourself, that gets expensive.

ruehl

iTrader: (19)

what do you guys think of this header/uppipe combo pretty cheat and I can use the EWG if I need to later on.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1877384

Concillian

iTrader: (2)

Aftermarket headers have their place, but you have to look at what you want from it.

They often have larger than stock tube sizes, which hurts spool, but is good up top. The other benefits (equal length, smooth tubes instead of the stock with lots of transitions and unmatched lips, etc...) generally end up with spool about the same as stock despite the larger pipes. However it won't give any real benefit to spool... unless you go smaller than stock.

Headers typically move the torque curve around, often to the higher RPMs. Again, you'll gain from dropping the cat in the uppipe, but it'll change your torque curve around.

For an example of just how much a header can change your torque curve, here is an example of road dynos from my car with just an up-pipe vs. a header similar to the one you linked, but with SMALLER than stock inside diameter (both tuned by me as well as I could get without a wideband.. i.e. decent, but by no means well tuned).



In this case, the header turned a 2.0liter torque curve into the curves you see coming from the 2.5liter engines (big peak, then all downhill). Over 6k, it's a clear loss in power compared to just an up-pipe, so much so that you may as well lower the redline (just as Subaru does with the 2.5liter motors compared with the 2.0.. it's not that they can't take 7k, it's just that there's no reason to go there). However, it's nice and fat 3k-5k, which was really good for me, since I didn't really go above that very often. Compared to tuned with stock up-pipe, it'd likely look pretty good up top, as the cat would choke off some of the gains the up-pipe curve sees up top.

So just consider all that if you decide on a header. It's definitely a nice price on that header, but just make sure you want bigger primaries before you buy it (very few headers will have smaller than stock primaries, almost all will have larger). It'll move your torque curve a little to the right. Some people want that and others don't.