Check Engine Light
#16
Originally posted by simpwrx02
for the high egt if it happening you should look into the possibility of getting water injection for your car ive heard it drops egt by like 300 degrees, if you are running stock turbo still it is way out of its effeciency and may be causing the high egt. my advice if you got the money is new turbo and water injection.
for the high egt if it happening you should look into the possibility of getting water injection for your car ive heard it drops egt by like 300 degrees, if you are running stock turbo still it is way out of its effeciency and may be causing the high egt. my advice if you got the money is new turbo and water injection.
P0139 Rear oxygen sensor circuit slow response
I'm not sure what CEL code I had before I put the MIL eliminator, but this is what I got after installing the MIL eliminator.
Are you saying everyone who has catless uppipes and catless turbobacks have to go that route of water injection and changing turbos? I thought the CEL fix would've taken care of the CEL?
#17
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What about an apex fuel controller? They put one on a 02 WRX this month in the modified mag, project section. Would that be a cheap way to solve the problem compared to turboXS utec?
Nick
Nick
#18
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Your Rear Oxygen sensor code is nothing more than the NORMAL code you get with an aftermarket exhaust that flows too much (at least as far as the ECU is concerned). Apparently your Mil eliminator is not working so well (not the first time that has happened, either). Also, my friend and I both did the 2.2k Ohm watt resistor fix for the uppipe EGT warning. Mine worked, and his didn't. We both used the exact same technique and parts. It's iffy. One thing you can do is make sure you got the 1/4 watt resistor vice the 1/2 watt resistor. One Might work, one absolutely will not.
Right now the codes you are getting are nuisance codes and nothing to get all bent out of shape over. Nor are they a requirement to spend $1,000's of dollars. IF you want to do serious self-tuning, then get the UTEC. If you want to have that much control over your fuel, get the Apex fuel controller, but you DON'T need them.
Relax. Everything will be just fine. If you have any more questions, feel free to post up or PM. However, if you are looking for mechanical excuses to justify upgrading your car... GO FOR IT. YOU NEED THOSE PARTS! (I am very guilty of that. I keep "hearing" pops and creaks in my suspension that make me think I need to upgrade )
Right now the codes you are getting are nuisance codes and nothing to get all bent out of shape over. Nor are they a requirement to spend $1,000's of dollars. IF you want to do serious self-tuning, then get the UTEC. If you want to have that much control over your fuel, get the Apex fuel controller, but you DON'T need them.
Relax. Everything will be just fine. If you have any more questions, feel free to post up or PM. However, if you are looking for mechanical excuses to justify upgrading your car... GO FOR IT. YOU NEED THOSE PARTS! (I am very guilty of that. I keep "hearing" pops and creaks in my suspension that make me think I need to upgrade )
#19
Thanks for the helpful advice. It wasn't really a big concern for me. I just thought it'd be nice to not see that bright CEL light on my dash for a change, I've actually been driving around for over 2 months with the CEL and my car runs great. It was weird though coz I had the same setup before but had an HKS downpipe without the MIL at first, no CEL for like 200 miles then it came up. That made me decide to get the MIL fix and I bought a new Invidia dp. CEL was still there. I'm also using the 1/2 resistor, I think I'll get the 1/4 see if that does anything.
#20
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Thanks for the info. I would like to see that damn light off for once, and know if somthing else is broke. What are you talking about with the resistor? (donk know what that is) If somthing needs to be upgraded (tell the woman that the OEM broke) always works for me. I am also lookin at an STi, and think that my car would sell better w/o a CEL on.
Nick
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#21
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Ok, so I take of my Injen intake. Get the CEL reset at AutoZone, and took off the battery cables for 10 min to reset the ecu. Drove for about 5 miles, then got on the highway. CEL turned on. I know that it is gonna be the same high temp thing. Anything I can do to the sensor in the up pipe?
Nick
Nick
#22
I finally fixed mine. I just took off the CEL eliminator, cleaned the O2 sensor a bit then put everything back. Reset the computer. VOILA, CEL hasn't turned on and it's already been a week. Kinda wierd. I'm sure you have the same problem since my CEL code was the same exact as yours. Try it and I'm almost positive that should fix it.
#24
Uppipe has an EGT sensor. I did the 2.2k resistor thing. The downpipe has the rear O2 sensor, that's the one I had a MIL eliminator, but I took it off now and I haven't gotten the CEL back ever since. I just wiped it with a paper towel coz it got gunked up by carbon deposits.
#26
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I feel your pain WRSEX, im about to take off my turboback too. i'd expect that after your ecu adapts, the cel will go away. who knows tho. mine seem to stalk me... ive got cel's 244 and 546. wastegate and egt. i still dont know exactly what impact 244 has. anyone?
#27
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I am getting an STi, so I need to make the CEL go away for the up pipe. I am also removing my HKS down pipe and putting stock back on. The Apexi N1 cat back is also coming off and the stock STi is goin on it. So it will be street legal and not be too loud, but have a little growl. If anyone wants an HKS downpipe for $150 plus shipping. Money is goin towards a radio for the STi. Still wanna know how to do the 2.2 resistor.
Nick
Nick
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