Tranny grinds upon shifting into 1st gear...NEED HELP
02-19-2004, 08:21 PM
#16
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Re: Tranny grinds upon shifting into 1st gear...NEED HELP
Originally posted by rustokman
I have a problen that has surfaced recently. I changed the tranny oil to the Mobil 75w-90 stuff which is supposed to be pretty good.
I have a problen that has surfaced recently. I changed the tranny oil to the Mobil 75w-90 stuff which is supposed to be pretty good.
02-20-2004, 12:55 AM
#17
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Yeah... I too have come to that conclusion aswell. It is horrible on the synchros, it takes about 2 seconds to finally get into first. Sometimes I am too scared to use first so I just go straight to second.
What do you guys think is a good tranny oil or tranny oil mix?
What do you guys think is a good tranny oil or tranny oil mix?
02-20-2004, 06:17 AM
#18
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Originally posted by rustokman
What do you guys think is a good tranny oil or tranny oil mix?
What do you guys think is a good tranny oil or tranny oil mix?
I'm currently using the Motul gear 300 and am impressed with the shifting quality, my only gripe is if it were a heavier base weight it would help soak up some of the noise(like the Redline MT90). There may be a better lube out there for the Subaru, but so far this is the benchmark for me.
03-27-2004, 01:21 PM
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Yeah...I went to the dealersip and they gave me some fluid. I don't really remember what they gave me. I think it was 80w-90 that they used for jeeps. I didn't really care sinces I was so fed up with the grinding. I changed the fluid about 2 weeks ago and I am yet to grind. So to make a long story short, yes, the stock tranny fluid or anything else that is not as slick as most of the aftermarket stuff out there will help eliminate that problem. I also found that when putting it into gear it helps if you just put the shifter to the gate and then let it fall in whenever its ready...I hope that helps...
03-27-2004, 08:46 PM
#25
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I just put in Castrol Syntrax 75w-90 into my legacy, this is the 2nd synthetic i have tried in my tranny, the other being Motul Gear 300, and i can say that these two synthetics have been far superior to the stock fluid, and to Valvoline Duragear 75w-90, and to Castrol Multitrax 75w-90 that i have all tried. The main difference i noticed was the ease of shifting and the eliminated notchiness with the synthetic, shifted like butter.
So dont believe those people who say try non-synthetic cos it is less slippery bla bla bla, i know 1st hand from my own experience that synthetic is far superior.
So dont believe those people who say try non-synthetic cos it is less slippery bla bla bla, i know 1st hand from my own experience that synthetic is far superior.
03-11-2005, 11:49 PM
#26
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Im having the exact same symptoms, not grinding, but a "crunch". I switched to Redline Synthetic at about 25k miles, now im at 42k and ive been having this problem for approx 10k miles. After reading this thread im positive its the redline so I want to change out the oil. I drive a lot in traffic now so I want the absolute best gear oil. What do you guys reccomend?
Thanks
_justin
Thanks
_justin
03-12-2005, 09:18 AM
#27
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Same problem here, took it to the dealership and they couldn't replicate it, they noted it and said that the tranny is waranteed for 60K so bring t back if it continues.
03-12-2005, 10:04 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by DriftinS14
What do you guys reccomend?
The Moltul Gear 300 is working well for me, in the trans for 15k. If I were to try a different synthetic, maybe the Redline Shockproof or the Neo RHD, or possibly Swepco dino, but IMO the Gear 300 will be hard to beat.
And if you haven't done it yet, BLEED YOUR CLUTCH HYDRAULICS! I finally got around to doing it and am sorry I waited so long. I knew from previous cars that when the hydraulics start to go shifting gets baulky, though previously never had a problem until there was a leak. I think the proximity of the slave to both the downpipe cat and turbo in these cars neccesitates a fluid change with a good high-temp fluid as often as the brakes.
03-22-2005, 09:38 PM
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That's some great info and advice. I have tried to explain the 'stuff inside is still spinnin, give it a sec' thing and not done so well. Usually what I do is hold the clutch, or if I let it out I push in the clutch when I see the other light turn amber and select 1st when mine turns green as you suggested. I also have no problem rev matching and downshifting into any gear including 1st - it's slick as can be but you hafta double-clutch. I used to do this in my '73 FJ40 as well w/out 1st gear synchros. It's hard, but a great skill to have.
-Jacob
-Jacob
Originally Posted by OldGuy
Let me add another thought here.
A lot of the complaints describe a situation where it sounds like the driver is sitting at a light (Or on a hill) with the trans in neutral and the clutch out. They then get grinding when they depress the clutch and select either 1st or reverse.
Here's a problem with that.
Sitting in neutral with the clutch out, the input shaft to the trans (Coming from the negine) is spinning and the output shaft (Going to the wheels) is stationery (Or turning backwards if you happen to be rolling back down that hill).
When you depress the clutch, the input shaft is still spinning from the momentum of the spinning that was happening. It takes a couple of seconds for it to stop due to the friction in the bearings, sloshing through the lube, etc..
When you attempt to engage the gears with one shaft spinning and the other stopped, you're going to get some grinding. This is more likely in 1st or reverse because of the low ratios of those gears. Not going to happen so much if you go neutral to 2nd, for instance.
There are two easy cures.
1. Don't sit at the light in neutral with the clutch out. Just select first and depress the clutch and hold it while you wait. It's very minor wear on the throwout bearing, but it's going to last longer than the clutch disc anyway. Also good exercise fot the left leg.
2. If you're gong to do the neutral/clutch out thing, just wait a couple of seconds after you depress the clutch for everything to slow down or stop. You can usually see the yellow for traffic in the other direction and get a head start so you don't hold up traffic while you wait.
My practice, select 1st and hold the clutch. Been doing it for over 40 years and the only times I've ever had grindind was if a clutch needed bleeding (Hydrolic) or adjustment (Cable).
A lot of the complaints describe a situation where it sounds like the driver is sitting at a light (Or on a hill) with the trans in neutral and the clutch out. They then get grinding when they depress the clutch and select either 1st or reverse.
Here's a problem with that.
Sitting in neutral with the clutch out, the input shaft to the trans (Coming from the negine) is spinning and the output shaft (Going to the wheels) is stationery (Or turning backwards if you happen to be rolling back down that hill).
When you depress the clutch, the input shaft is still spinning from the momentum of the spinning that was happening. It takes a couple of seconds for it to stop due to the friction in the bearings, sloshing through the lube, etc..
When you attempt to engage the gears with one shaft spinning and the other stopped, you're going to get some grinding. This is more likely in 1st or reverse because of the low ratios of those gears. Not going to happen so much if you go neutral to 2nd, for instance.
There are two easy cures.
1. Don't sit at the light in neutral with the clutch out. Just select first and depress the clutch and hold it while you wait. It's very minor wear on the throwout bearing, but it's going to last longer than the clutch disc anyway. Also good exercise fot the left leg.
2. If you're gong to do the neutral/clutch out thing, just wait a couple of seconds after you depress the clutch for everything to slow down or stop. You can usually see the yellow for traffic in the other direction and get a head start so you don't hold up traffic while you wait.
My practice, select 1st and hold the clutch. Been doing it for over 40 years and the only times I've ever had grindind was if a clutch needed bleeding (Hydrolic) or adjustment (Cable).