cudaeh

OK,
So here is the theory.
After market clutch companies design there components to work with stock components, right? So theoretically if I find a good deal on an after market disk (ACT 6 puck) and I don’t like ACT’s pressure plates (only 50% max improvement in clamp what’s with that?) I could find another companies pressure plate I like better and use that.

Am I right here?

If so, who is running what after market pressure plate on there RS with a better clamp load that they like?

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

What sort of mods are you running on your RS? Do you really need more clamping force? Generally, more clamping force requires higher pedal pressure to disengage the clutch. You might think that's no big deal but it's a real pain if you ever get caught in heavy traffic.

I really like to stick with one manufacturer for both the pressure plate and clutch disc. While mix'n'match may work, if something does go wrong in the future, neither manufacturer is likely to honor a warranty claim.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

cudaeh

when its all said and done
STi block
forged helix STI connecting rods
Forged TWE SOHC sti pistons
TWE light weight wrist pins and clips
TWE stage II SOHC cams
TWE valve springs
TWE titanium retainers
ARP studs
dead bolt td06 super 16g (clipped and ported) turbo
WRX intake manifold
injectors (still undecided on size)
fuel pump (again undecided)
perfect power SMT6

Basically I’m building the internals to handle 600ish horse, but I will prolly only tune it to 500 max.

So, yes, It would be nice to have the improved clamping power.

As far as stiff peddles I don’t mind. And I mean that from experience, I drove a 73 barracuda from Florida to Michigan, stuck in 2 hours worth of stop and go with a cable clutch. It was a pain in the knee but as long as you slip it into neutral and let off the clutch between moving it isn’t bad.

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for posting mods (or future mods).

With that much power and torque for a street-driven car, I'd investigate a multiple disc clutch setup. Not great for super fast shifting at the drags due to greater mass inertia but can hold a tremendous amount of torque output without slippage or high pedal pressure. I had a dual-disc clutch setup backing a 482 cu. in. Chevy with over 500 ft lbs of torque and the clutch pedal was easier than stock - a real joy to drive. These clutches (depending on manufacturer) rely on two, three, or even four times the friction surface area to do the work of transferring power, instead of using a race-only type friction material that is 'grabby' upon engagement. I think Exedy makes one but I don't know what friction material they use on the discs.

OT - do you still have the '73 Barracuda? I wish I still had a couple of my previous rides.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

cudaeh

Hey, thanks for the info.
It was never my car... I love the cuda's though. 71 is my fave.
I work for a fried helping him with his biz. He wheels and deals on old mopars. He mostly specializes in 71-74 chargers. I met him trying to get parts for my 73 charger.
Hers pics of the cuda.
That was a hell of a little car.
Even with just a 340 hit screamed!

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

That's a really sweet 'cuda. I've come to appreciate Mopar a lot more for all the factory support they give by way of over-the-counter performance parts that really work. I've ordered Mopar Performance parts (previously Direct Connection) for another previous car, a turbo GLH-S, and the Mopar catalog had a few hundred performance parts for the enthusiast, many factory engineered.

Getting back to your topic, I hope you are able to find a good combination that is easy enough to drive. Your car will have more mods than my WRX, so I can't honestly say what will be the best clutch setup.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

cudaeh

Goes Like Hell - Son!
Those things never got enough respect in my oppinion.

Thanks for all the help,
I will look into the multipul disk systems

cudaeh

I just checked exedys site for a multi disc set up, and they dont show any thing other than "ej20t" clutches. any idea where I can get one/part numbers for N/A version?

Krinkov

iTrader: (21)

wow, nice post, great Cuda !

First off, regardless of all your other mods, what tranny your running is whats going to really deterine what clutch/P plate you can run. So which is it, STI 6-speed, WRX 5-speed, RS 5-speed(gasp!)

in any case, right now your TD06-16G is not a very big turbo for a built 2.5 block, matter of fact thats the perfect turbo for a high reving 2.0 (small compressor/big turbine, like the EVOS)

Either way, as im sure you know choosing a clutch has more to do with how low and how much torque you make. hypothetically you can be fine with a clutch on a small, high reving motor that can hold 500hp at 6K rpm but be in trouble with a the same clutch on a large, low reving motor that makes half that torque but dumps it all under 3K rpm, Ive had both So then the second question would be what turbo do you plan to run after the 16G, that thing on a built 2.5 would is a complete stump-puller! Either way, Ive ran both the Exedy Hyper singler and twin plates. Hated both of them At this point I would only use their stage 1 through stage 3, which is a 30%+ over P plate with a specific disc, ACT is the same setup, but Exedy is cheaper and I like them better for stock feel. Either way the 5 speeds use a smaller diam disc whch is going to make for s stiffer disd that the same clutch on a larger diam 6 speed clutch, but with a 2.5 with a small turbo like that a 5-speed wont last long anyhow, so let us know your tranny and future turbo plans first

cudaeh

Dead bolt actually recommended that turbo based on the fact that I wanted decent horse power out of it with minimal spool. I am going to be running the RS 5speed, simply because Its what I have in there now, It seems to hold up better than the wrx box, and I don’t want to shell out 1k+ for a new trans and another $500 ish for the rest of the stuff just to replace it down the road.
I am planning a dog box eventually.
I wont be running 500ish horse until I have a stronger drive train. I plan on only putting 350or so horse through the RS trans. I just want to get a clutch set up that I wont have to replace down the road.

I actually prefer my car to be a bit of a stump puller. I am gearing it mostly towards on the road fun, autoX and rallyX. I would rather have something that’s fun on the street and get killed at autox and rallyx events because i get lumped into the modd classes. I find if I have allot of top end power I get in trouble on the street, but if I can hammer it and jump any time I want I keep it in check.

I am starting to think that the 6 puck might be too aggressive of an engagement for an RS drive train. I’m just looking for clamping power. I don’t care too much about petal stiffness.

ipozestu

iTrader: (18)

Well from my experience, your making the right move on the tranny. It will break. Wait for that to happen it might last longer than you think. I recently had to replace mine. It went for about a year after the engine swap and bammo, new RA gearset. As for the turbo, 16g with that size hot side is going to run out of breath very quickly. The first turbo I had on my 2.5 was a TD06-18g. It was fun as hell to drive but started gasping about 5000rpm. Just blowing hot air from there on. The 16g will spool faster but your are going run so far out of your compressor efficiancy curve above 5000rpm, it will force you to go to larger compressor. Look at it this way, sizing a larger compressor will give more volume at a cooler temperature at lower psi, that a smaller compressor at less volume, higher psi, hotter intake charge. You are building a pretty sweet block, it can handle but you are asking it to carry quite a bit of weight by your turbo selection. Save your motor for a while. I won't be the last one to tell you thatreplacing motors can get very expensive but I will be the first. After four motors last year, I should know. So I guess for your goals which are a little confusing. That turbo will never even on it's best day support those HP numbers. Take Marks car for example, he's building a ground pounder, and still hasn't broken 500hp on pump. Take some time a evaluate dyno plots and compressor maps to what will best be suited for your application. Apply this to adjust your goals. Research the best method to achieve your goal. Then go to work and adjust accordingly. Have an extra $2000 laying around just in case. Your gonna need it. Good luck with project. I look forward to seeing how it develops.
Jeff

ipozestu

iTrader: (18)

Oh next time your talk to Jerry tell him he still owes me my 18g wheel and housing. JK

sigma pi

iTrader: (6)

what about a 69 charger how much do those go for>?

cudaeh

All makes sense, thank you.
to me the HP numbers are rough guide lines and not set in stone hell bent try to achieve. I personally would be more than happy to see 450 but what ev.
I typically shift around the 5k mark any how but your right I would be better off with something that wont top out till later.
Like I said I am just looking for a good clutch solution that I wont grow out of too quick. (plan for the worst)

cudaeh

just like any thing else, you can buy them for any price, its just all how much work you want to put into it.

I picked this one up for the G/F for $600