P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
12-24-2002, 12:24 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
wes,
Thanx for the help.
There where no symtoms at all whatsoever anytime before the sudden failure.
This is what happened:
Driving on highway at 65mph (crusing).
A sudden violent jerk, (not like it was shifting forward, but as if the car hit a big bump at high speeds so in otherwords a stoping jerk)
the car then dropped from 4rd gear(last gear) to 3rd gear.
There the car stayed until I found an offramp.
Procceded to stop car and turn of ignition, waited 5 minutes then turned car on. No luck, the transmision was definitly acting different.
At this point, put into 1st gear, did not engage, tryed selecting 2nd gear, car engaged, but took off slow(as it should according to the manual when 2nd gear is selected the car goes into anti-slip mode, meaning slowly adds torque to the wheels)
stopped and selected 3rd gear, same thing slow engagement.
stopped and selected 4rth gear, same thing slow engagement.
stopped and selected neutral, car would not move while we tried to push the car.
stopped and selected reverse, the car would not engage in reverse.
While in 2nd or 3rd and moving at 15 mph, the neutral selection was chosen, the car would then drift to a stop. Again, the car still was not able to be pused forward or backward once in astopped motion.
All non-engaging gears shared the same charateristics (even neutral) when a gear was selected, the engine would drop about 200 rpms (as if the car was trying to shift but could not, lack of pressure?)
Thanx for the help.
There where no symtoms at all whatsoever anytime before the sudden failure.
This is what happened:
Driving on highway at 65mph (crusing).
A sudden violent jerk, (not like it was shifting forward, but as if the car hit a big bump at high speeds so in otherwords a stoping jerk)
the car then dropped from 4rd gear(last gear) to 3rd gear.
There the car stayed until I found an offramp.
Procceded to stop car and turn of ignition, waited 5 minutes then turned car on. No luck, the transmision was definitly acting different.
At this point, put into 1st gear, did not engage, tryed selecting 2nd gear, car engaged, but took off slow(as it should according to the manual when 2nd gear is selected the car goes into anti-slip mode, meaning slowly adds torque to the wheels)
stopped and selected 3rd gear, same thing slow engagement.
stopped and selected 4rth gear, same thing slow engagement.
stopped and selected neutral, car would not move while we tried to push the car.
stopped and selected reverse, the car would not engage in reverse.
While in 2nd or 3rd and moving at 15 mph, the neutral selection was chosen, the car would then drift to a stop. Again, the car still was not able to be pused forward or backward once in astopped motion.
All non-engaging gears shared the same charateristics (even neutral) when a gear was selected, the engine would drop about 200 rpms (as if the car was trying to shift but could not, lack of pressure?)
Last edited by X20SRT; 12-24-2002 at 12:29 AM.
12-24-2002, 01:58 AM
#7
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Posts: n/a
It could very well be the transfer clutch pressure is low. To check this you will need two special tools, or equivalents. The tool numbers that Subaru gives for the test is ST 498897700 - Oil pressure adapter and ST 498575400 - oil pressure gauge assembly. The test plug location is kind of by the output shaft on the trans. If you have those tools, or are still interested in checking it yourself, I would gladly write up the procedure for you. Just let me know. I am always glad to help a fellow Subaru owner!
-Wes
-Wes
12-24-2002, 12:08 PM
#8
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wes,
today I just remembered another bit of information.
After the initial drive after the transmision gave me a check engine light, I went home. I parked my car. Then I stepped out of the car and checked my transmission oil cooler(which I put in myself).
That thing is always either warm or hot. And it was neither. It was as cold as cold can be, which would lead to further evidence there is no pressure.
But I'm willing to buy the tools just as long as they are not too expensive.
today I just remembered another bit of information.
After the initial drive after the transmision gave me a check engine light, I went home. I parked my car. Then I stepped out of the car and checked my transmission oil cooler(which I put in myself).
That thing is always either warm or hot. And it was neither. It was as cold as cold can be, which would lead to further evidence there is no pressure.
But I'm willing to buy the tools just as long as they are not too expensive.
12-25-2002, 02:37 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, if that is the case,try the easiest, cheapest solution first. Just follow the two trans fluid lines, all the way through their cycle, and if you find them to be bad, new lines will probably cost you less then $1. If not, then try the pressure check. I will post how to do the pressure check probably tomorrow for you. I hope though for your sake it is just a simple ruptured trans hose. I have had one of my start to break before, from a hose clamp being too tight.
-Wes
-Wes
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