Drivetrain Encompasses driveline components such as the torque converter, clutch, transmission, shifter, front and center differentials, driveshaft, rear differential, and axles.

How do you select a an aftermarket clutch?

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Old 08-07-2004, 03:41 PM
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How do you select a an aftermarket clutch?

This is an area where I am completely without knowledge.

Are there different clutches for different applications, such as drag vs. road racing?

What's the difference between this design:

and this:

In the second picture, I see an obvious decrease in mass, therefore less sprung weight (although I'm not sure that clutch mass would affect a drag on the power output). I see 6 smaller springs on the 'sport' clutch vs. 4 larger on the 'street' clutch.

Are all throw out bearings and pressure plates the same, or is it worthwhile to comparison shop?

I know that when shopping for a daily driven but higher-than-stock power output car, it's worthwhile to investigate drivability comfort and how difficult a particular clutch is to get used to. Is that where having more or less 'pucks' comes into play?

I know that these may be intensely n00bish questions, and I apologize. If someone wouldn't mind taking the time to point me to some good reference material, I wouldn't mind in the least.

Last edited by gpatmac; 10-15-2004 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 08-08-2004, 07:54 AM
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The second picture is a "puck" type clutch and is strictly for non-street use with a reinforced drivetrain. The engagement with these is more like on-off rather than progressive, they are not designed to be slipped like a street clutch.
Assuming you have a stock transmission you need a regular disc-type clutch like the one in the first pic. This will allow the clutch to be released gradually and not all at once, to avoid shocking the drivetrain (which is what destroys gears and trannies). With a higher-than-stock HP car you can get a disc clutch with more holding power than the OEM one that will still allow for slipping and progressive release. The disc and pressure plate will be available together as a kit as they are matched components. A truly complete kit will include a TO bearing as well, although this can be purchased separately. The bearing will probably be the same regardless of the clutch type.
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Old 08-08-2004, 08:50 AM
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Mulder,

Thanks very much (especially for not talking down).

I've upgraded my trans to the 6mt...but it's obviously not still 'stock'. Not something I could afford to throw all of the torque onto.

So, as I shop, the full disc...like stage 2 or 3 street/strip clutches would be appropriate.

Last questions, what is the difference b/w a clutch that would be more appropriate for a 6mt vs a 5mt; and what are your feelings on the differences b/w the composites, ie kevlar vs. carbon, etc...?
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Old 08-08-2004, 10:49 AM
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Why would I talk down just to answer a straightforward question? In fact, why would I talk down at all? I'd rather not post than do that.
Anyhow I don't have specific answers to your questions, but with luck someone who knows will come in and post. My own drivetrain is 100% stock and will likely remain that way.
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Old 08-08-2004, 04:22 PM
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Well, you don't realize how directly you answered my 'gaps' in understanding.

I know this isn't Nasioc where you sometimes have to reign in your humility, but I laugh at myself because there are certain areas in modifying or tuning my car where I feel pretty comfortable with the knowledge I have, and there're other areas, which most everyone else seems to know as second nature that I don't have a clue about.

I have the v7 STI non-dccd transmission, and while I love it a lot, I do think that I didn't purchase what I really would want. For such a large purchase, I was too eager and convinced myself that I had made the right conclusion as too which tranny to buy. Problem is, I now believe that it may not be strong enough for what I want out of it. (I love track days more than drag racing, but the opportunity to drag was so much more frequent, and I had to be there.) I think I may have damaged my 6th gear drag racing (believe it or not.)

Now, when I redeploy next week, I have everything I should need (minus an upgraded clutch, I believe) to be able to tune the car for an easy, safe 400ft/lb tq. We'll see. Problem is, I'm not allowing myself to dwell on the trans problem, so it will most likely still be there when I get home.

My how I digress. Hijacked my own thread. Anyhow, thanks again for your response.
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Old 08-08-2004, 04:44 PM
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That transmission can handle 400 ft./lbs. easily man. Unfortunately, there aren't too many "streetable" clutch options around. www.racecompengineering.com has some options, but the best of them, the STi lightweight stuff, is really expensive. I personally think I'm just going to go straight to the Exedy Hyper Single rather than save a mere $100-150 on an upgraded clutch/flywheel tandem.
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Old 08-08-2004, 05:13 PM
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Hmmm, I thought Exedy made the stock clutch for the WRX and STI. They are selling a 'semi-sport' organic clutch for $250. I wonder why they don't call it an Exedy.

Also, ironically, as soon as I read your post, I got a mass-mailer from Gruppe-S. They are selling an Exedy for $345 (for the 2.0). Oops, I saw flywheel but thought clutch. They're selling an Exedy flywheel for $345.

I wonder what you give up as far as durability with one of those 'three paddle' clutches.
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Old 08-08-2004, 05:51 PM
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Well as I said a puck clutch is not what you want for the street, you may find it undriveable or at least so unpleasant in normal traffic that you won't want to drive it.
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Old 08-08-2004, 06:55 PM
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I gotta 6-MT in my '02 WRX.
I used the 14.3lb exedy light flywheel with the ACT HD streed disc (I think that's exactly what it was called) all bought from Max at Gruppe-S.

Works great, clutch is heavier than stock WRX, but not bad at all once you get used to it. Except when sitting at long stop lights.

Good luck with your tranny
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Old 08-08-2004, 08:11 PM
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The ACT stuff is good, they make a quality product. I've heard only good things about their street clutch (a lot of autocrossers use it because they still drive their cars on the street).
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Old 10-15-2004, 11:38 PM
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Is there any difference between a 'pucked' clutch and a plate clutch as far as durability?
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Old 10-15-2004, 11:58 PM
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Driven on the street, the standard disc will last longer, because the pucked clutch will be so much harder to drive, you can't help but be hard on it. you'll have more shudder and such on a high friction multi-puck disc than the standard round one. On the other hand, with lots of motorsports type driving, the more aggressive clutch will last longer.
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Old 10-16-2004, 08:24 AM
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I think that pretty much closes it, Ban. It was slipping so much last night, it scared me.

I'm looking at this, http://www.ninosautoaccessories.com/...roducts_id=133 or these guys http://www.racecompengineering.com/product-clutch1.htm, although racecomp doesn't show the price of 'clutch with pressure plate' which makes the price look so misleadingly attractive.
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Old 10-16-2004, 11:34 AM
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I'm actually leaning towards the ACT pp/clutch combo for my 6MT swap.
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Old 10-16-2004, 07:40 PM
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I think I might call racecomp and see if they can't overnight a nice "STi Semi-sport Organic Clutch Disc" to me. I think I'm happy enough with my flywheel. Thanks for the link, Ban.
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