Do you think SOA will deny me for the clutch shudder...please read
#1
I <3 White Girls
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iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 26,491
Car Info: E92 M3, E70, F32, E21
Do you think SOA will deny me for the clutch shudder...please read
I have a Cat-Back exhaust, a blow off Valve and 18" wheels/tires, and ofcourse some stereo equipment, but i dont think that has anything to do with it...but with those mods will a subaru dealership deny me for warranty claims related to the tranny/clutch?
has anyone had a bad experience with minimal mods like that?
has anyone had a bad experience with minimal mods like that?
Last edited by Zoeb2s; 03-18-2003 at 10:18 AM.
#3
everything you listed are legal. Correct me if I am wrong. Anything before the TB and after header you could do whatever you want. But I am not sure in a force induction car (your BOV). It might be before the turbo for you. But here is the thing (i got it from a dealership). If it's not the cause of the problem, you are okay. If it's illegal but they don't have to take it off, it's okay. Take it to Santa Cruz Subaru and good luck!
Leo
Leo
Originally posted by Cabal
I've seen reports of people having the clutch shudder work done under warranty with mods similar to your own. You can either hope your dealer is mod-friendly, find another who is, or yank some of the bigger mods. You would know better than us.
I've seen reports of people having the clutch shudder work done under warranty with mods similar to your own. You can either hope your dealer is mod-friendly, find another who is, or yank some of the bigger mods. You would know better than us.
#4
since u have a bov and cat back, i would suggest and go ahead and put ur stock bov and cat back on and that would leave no question about ur warranty. it will give the service manager less leverage to use against u.
u may want to consider putting ur stock wheels back on too but i dont think it would be necessary.
u may want to consider putting ur stock wheels back on too but i dont think it would be necessary.
#5
I <3 White Girls
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Car Info: E92 M3, E70, F32, E21
Originally posted by stick
since u have a bov and cat back, i would suggest and go ahead and put ur stock bov and cat back on and that would leave no question about ur warranty. it will give the service manager less leverage to use against u.
u may want to consider putting ur stock wheels back on too but i dont think it would be necessary.
since u have a bov and cat back, i would suggest and go ahead and put ur stock bov and cat back on and that would leave no question about ur warranty. it will give the service manager less leverage to use against u.
u may want to consider putting ur stock wheels back on too but i dont think it would be necessary.
Also the things I have on my car don't really produce more power, would it really be an issue? I would like to take it in w/o having to pull off all that stuff, but if its really going to be an issue I rather do it then to be denied.
Also, I cannot take my car to Santa Cruz subaru b/c I live about 2 hours+ away, and i Work/go to school monday-saturday.
#6
hmmm.... ic... again, i don't they are an issue. but if you want to be save. call your local dealership and pretend to be someone else and ask the service manager that question. Good luck!
Leo
Leo
Originally posted by 02BlackWRX
I sold my stock wheels, you don't think they can hold that against me, do u?
Also the things I have on my car don't really produce more power, would it really be an issue? I would like to take it in w/o having to pull off all that stuff, but if its really going to be an issue I rather do it then to be denied.
Also, I cannot take my car to Santa Cruz subaru b/c I live about 2 hours+ away, and i Work/go to school monday-saturday.
I sold my stock wheels, you don't think they can hold that against me, do u?
Also the things I have on my car don't really produce more power, would it really be an issue? I would like to take it in w/o having to pull off all that stuff, but if its really going to be an issue I rather do it then to be denied.
Also, I cannot take my car to Santa Cruz subaru b/c I live about 2 hours+ away, and i Work/go to school monday-saturday.
#7
I <3 White Girls
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Car Info: E92 M3, E70, F32, E21
Originally posted by iBlueVirus
hmmm.... ic... again, i don't they are an issue. but if you want to be save. call your local dealership and pretend to be someone else and ask the service manager that question. Good luck!
Leo
hmmm.... ic... again, i don't they are an issue. but if you want to be save. call your local dealership and pretend to be someone else and ask the service manager that question. Good luck!
Leo
#8
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Posts: n/a
Warranty
I brought my car into Renick Subaru with the following mod's and they gave me the new flywheel, clutch disc, plate, bolts, gasket...
4" Downpipe
3" straight through Turbo-back
GFB MBC
Uni-Chip
Samco hoses
MRT Up-Pipe
STI Mounts
Short Shifter
Custom air intake, with drop in
Blitz DTT
TurboSmart Adjustable BoV
Obviously mangled/abused tires (only 10k miles on the car :P )
-Magerum
Of course...I got my car back Friday night (rain)...and stuffed it into a wall on the 91 Saturday night before the first sunny day with the new clutch Oh a warning...it feels like it's mushy when you're putting around town...but once you start hammering through the gears it is a bit stronger then the US stock one. It broke my rear diff mount Saturday :P
4" Downpipe
3" straight through Turbo-back
GFB MBC
Uni-Chip
Samco hoses
MRT Up-Pipe
STI Mounts
Short Shifter
Custom air intake, with drop in
Blitz DTT
TurboSmart Adjustable BoV
Obviously mangled/abused tires (only 10k miles on the car :P )
-Magerum
Of course...I got my car back Friday night (rain)...and stuffed it into a wall on the 91 Saturday night before the first sunny day with the new clutch Oh a warning...it feels like it's mushy when you're putting around town...but once you start hammering through the gears it is a bit stronger then the US stock one. It broke my rear diff mount Saturday :P
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
shuttering clutch
My clutch has always shuttered since I bought the car. It only shuttered when the engine was cold. So what I've always done was to warm up the engine prior to driving it. Recently, 2 guys plus me in my car... they want to feel the awd, so I revved it up to 5g and launched my car. With over 500 lbs extra, the clutch barely held (kept slipping for an extra second after the clutch was fully released). I realized that that launch did some major wear on my clutch (afterwards). Anyway, when I was about to go home (about 3.5 hours later, the shutter went away. Since then, my clutch only shutters when I release it too slow with the rpm under 1500.
I think the dealer people launched and abused our cars (the ones that shutter) before we purchased them. I've seen the way other cars were driven when I came back for a free carwash and had no doubt that my car was very abused before I bought it.
I think the dealer people launched and abused our cars (the ones that shutter) before we purchased them. I've seen the way other cars were driven when I came back for a free carwash and had no doubt that my car was very abused before I bought it.
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 18,369
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
You're probably right about the abuse (heck, I know what I did to my car when I test drove it BEFORE I committed to buying it) but it's pretty much proven that the material used for the OEM clutch disc is at fault for the judder problem. It's hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, and this causes the disc to not be fully engaged with the flywheel and pressure plate. The high and ow parts cause the disc to 'skip', which causes more rough spots, and it builds and builds to the point that you have to burn it back down to semi-flatness. Naturally, it doesn't last, sorta like the grain on your lawn when you mow it. After you play a few games of rugby on it, it doesn't look so pretty.
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