Automatic vs. Manual
04-22-2003 | 04:21 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Automatic vs. Manual
I'm planning on purchasing an '04 WRX soon. Could someone inform me as to how much slower the automatic WRX is compared to the manual WRX? I've never learned how to drive stick, but if there's really that much of a difference, then I'll go for the manual.
04-22-2003 | 06:16 PM
#3
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 218
From: new york
Car Info: black o2 sedan
do not waste your money and get an automatic, a million people across the world can drive manuls, so can you.... unless you just want to point and steer the car... get the auto
otherwise, if you want to have a fun fast car, that you can control, get the manual no question
its not that bad learning on the wrx either, hell, i did!
otherwise, if you want to have a fun fast car, that you can control, get the manual no question
its not that bad learning on the wrx either, hell, i did!
04-22-2003 | 06:43 PM
#4
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 361
From: ghettos of malibu, yo
um....really, really dumb question here....is it bad if I dont let the clutch out all the way for first gear before I shift into second? It almost feels like if I let it out all the way I'd be revving the engine too high for practical every day driving. Would it be bad if I just started it in second? Also, how do your rexes take dumped clutch launches...seems like the AWD would just eat up the clutch. Can anyone get any wheelspin with theirs?
04-22-2003 | 06:45 PM
#5
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you may think you want to "point and steer the car"... but you really don't!!!
i too learned on the WRX... but before you get your manual, you may want to have a friend teach you the basics over a few days... cuz you gotta get the car home some how.
also, the extra $1000 (i think it's 1000) can be applied to mods.
i too learned on the WRX... but before you get your manual, you may want to have a friend teach you the basics over a few days... cuz you gotta get the car home some how.
also, the extra $1000 (i think it's 1000) can be applied to mods.
04-22-2003 | 10:02 PM
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by dorrington
um....really, really dumb question here....is it bad if I dont let the clutch out all the way for first gear before I shift into second? It almost feels like if I let it out all the way I'd be revving the engine too high for practical every day driving. Would it be bad if I just started it in second? Also, how do your rexes take dumped clutch launches...seems like the AWD would just eat up the clutch. Can anyone get any wheelspin with theirs?
um....really, really dumb question here....is it bad if I dont let the clutch out all the way for first gear before I shift into second? It almost feels like if I let it out all the way I'd be revving the engine too high for practical every day driving. Would it be bad if I just started it in second? Also, how do your rexes take dumped clutch launches...seems like the AWD would just eat up the clutch. Can anyone get any wheelspin with theirs?
04-24-2003 | 10:59 AM
#7
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Posts: n/a
dorrington- the 1st gear is geared very low on this car
so dont mind it if you do in fact rev up into the low 4000rpm's
for 'normal' acceleration. you SHOULD let out the clutch
all the way (full engagement) so that you dont ride on the clutch
and prematurely wear it out.
1st gear is tricky because 1st gear response actually starts at
the time you engage the clutch completely from a stand still.
for instance, if your engage 1st at 900rpm, you will end up
reving into 4000rpms' to make that normal acceleration.
if you engage 1st at 1100-1500rpm (which is recommended)
you only need to rev up to 3300-3500rpm to make that normal
acceleration.
you can start on 2nd if your car is rolling forward.
if not, you will end up bogging or will need to slip the clutch
quite a bit which will also add to the premature wear.
hope this helps.
so dont mind it if you do in fact rev up into the low 4000rpm's
for 'normal' acceleration. you SHOULD let out the clutch
all the way (full engagement) so that you dont ride on the clutch
and prematurely wear it out.
1st gear is tricky because 1st gear response actually starts at
the time you engage the clutch completely from a stand still.
for instance, if your engage 1st at 900rpm, you will end up
reving into 4000rpms' to make that normal acceleration.
if you engage 1st at 1100-1500rpm (which is recommended)
you only need to rev up to 3300-3500rpm to make that normal
acceleration.
you can start on 2nd if your car is rolling forward.
if not, you will end up bogging or will need to slip the clutch
quite a bit which will also add to the premature wear.
hope this helps.
04-24-2003 | 11:03 AM
#8
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hansel - if you plan on driving it for commute and some fun
driving, then get the AT. the MT on this car is not really
easy to get use to for beginners... especially the 02's have
a heavy clutch pedal so if you do any bumper to bumper traffic
every morning/night you will get pretty tired.
MT = full time fun, but cumbersome if you are not into it
AT = full time comfort , not especially exciting, but you can
enjoy sight seeing more. (?).
i use to take my MT to work everyday, but now only drive
it on the weekends. i drive a Protege5 to work and its a MT,
but a super easy MT.
driving, then get the AT. the MT on this car is not really
easy to get use to for beginners... especially the 02's have
a heavy clutch pedal so if you do any bumper to bumper traffic
every morning/night you will get pretty tired.
MT = full time fun, but cumbersome if you are not into it
AT = full time comfort , not especially exciting, but you can
enjoy sight seeing more. (?).
i use to take my MT to work everyday, but now only drive
it on the weekends. i drive a Protege5 to work and its a MT,
but a super easy MT.
04-24-2003 | 06:22 PM
#10
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 307
From: Burbank, California
Car Info: 05 CGM FXT STi
dont forget that if your manual tranny breaks (like mine did) Subaru does not warranty it. the salesperson told me that the only difference was the $1000 and having a slower car, but I learned the hard way, the difference is, the automatic shifts by itself and if it breaks, it had to be a mechanical error. the manual is shifted by the user, and if it breaks it is the users problem. Well I didnt just pay $25,000 for a brand new car to pay another $3,600 for repairs due to a defective transmission.
other than that, the manual wrx is one of the funnest cars I have ever driven, and before everyone jumps on me and says I cant drive a stick...I have owned 2 brand new cars (manual) and have been driving my old CRX hatchback for the last month while the Subie was in the shop, and that beater has over 160,000 miles with the stock clutch and trans.
other than that, the manual wrx is one of the funnest cars I have ever driven, and before everyone jumps on me and says I cant drive a stick...I have owned 2 brand new cars (manual) and have been driving my old CRX hatchback for the last month while the Subie was in the shop, and that beater has over 160,000 miles with the stock clutch and trans.
04-24-2003 | 07:22 PM
#11
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by DOHCammin
dont forget that if your manual tranny breaks (like mine did) Subaru does not warranty it. the salesperson told me that the only difference was the $1000 and having a slower car, but I learned the hard way, the difference is, the automatic shifts by itself and if it breaks, it had to be a mechanical error. the manual is shifted by the user, and if it breaks it is the users problem. Well I didnt just pay $25,000 for a brand new car to pay another $3,600 for repairs due to a defective transmission.
dont forget that if your manual tranny breaks (like mine did) Subaru does not warranty it. the salesperson told me that the only difference was the $1000 and having a slower car, but I learned the hard way, the difference is, the automatic shifts by itself and if it breaks, it had to be a mechanical error. the manual is shifted by the user, and if it breaks it is the users problem. Well I didnt just pay $25,000 for a brand new car to pay another $3,600 for repairs due to a defective transmission.
I don't know where to start on that one.
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