I went yesterday to Napierville 1/4 mile track with my car and gave it my best shot...here it is:

R/T: .52 (my best today was .18)
60': 1.9
1/8: 9.1
1/4:14.396
MPH: 94.1

So this is my N/A no nitrous run. But a few things i need to say.

Im using Unichip management and the redline is set at 8,000rpm (I usually shift at 7,500rpm, since it is lean after that and runs out of breath, new management will help) but every run, the car would hit the stock rev limiter momentarily (very violent) and then keep going to 7,500 rpm no problem (a very big hiccup). This happend once on my 14.3 run, and Im sure it hurt my time. It happend twice or three times on my others and really killed my time (14.5-6), I had no perfectly smooth runs unfortunatly. So I wish the car was behaved better, but it still did just fine for me.

The Unichip is going to be changed for EMS stand alone management in a week or two. The unichip is not enough for tuning this car and we are missing power because of it. Mind you the unichip is tuned a well as it can get, but the unichip can only do so much. So with the standalone and the 9lb flywheel and bored tb being installed in a week or so i think I can touch 13's. What do you guys think? This car is in need of proper engine management, ther motor isnt at its potential yet i don't think.

Anyway, here's my mods:

Power:
Stromung cat back
Random tech hi flow cat
Borla headers
Cobb CAI
UD pulley
Ported and polished cylinder heads
Ported and polished intake manifold
Bored out throttle body (needs to be installed)
Cobb Racer cams
Cobb valve springs
Cobb titanium retainers
Custom stainless steel valves
Closed deck bock
11:1 compression pistons nitrous coated (future nitrous use)
custom connecting rods
knife edged crank shaft
balanced
blueprinted
Sleeved
Torque plate boring to 2.55L
ACT street clutch
14 lb flywheel (sson to be 9lb)
STi engine mounts
STi tranny mounts
Unichip engine management (soon to be EMS stand alone)
Redline set at 8,000 rpm

So in a week or two Ill have the stand alone, 9 lb flywheel and the bored TB on the car, so im going to go back to the track after that is done and we'll see what happens. Im also going to put on my stock rims and winter tires, i used my 17" rims, I didnt have time to change them. Thanks for any questions or comments guys, I appreciate it!

Dan

There is video too, not sure if they got this run though (I think so), but we'll find out. They got lots of them though and he sat in the car for a run and got a 14.5 on tape.

 

I guess no one really cares...but I went again with winter tires, and I beat my previous best!

Here's the rundown from the best timeslips

Best ET

60' 1.94
1/8 9.004
1/4 14.201@94.34mph

Best MPH

60' 2.105
1/8 9.385
1/4 14.610@95.784

3rd good run
60' 1.97
1/8 9.123
1/4 14.357@95.638

 

Paul,
Thanks for the reply first of all!

Cobb had nothing to do with the building of my motor, i have a few parts of theirs (cams, springs, retainers) thats it.

I worked with Lachute Subaru (who competes in the candaian rally championships) and we carefully chose each part for it, and we worked through a shop called AMB here in Quebec, they did the whole build, form the block to the heads...everything.
They build subaru rally engines and are very very fluent in subaru motors. This is the first they built like this though...they spent 5 months making sure everything possible could be done and it was done right, lachute gave me a loaner engine which was very very cool.

anyway, its a lot fo fun to drive and very very competitive against modded WRX's. However 13's are on the agenda for next months after the 9 lb flywheel goes in as well as the stand alone engine management, which the car badly needs, it has a lot left to give, thats for sure. Any other questions?

Dan

 

Dan, Much much deserved Props...

I gotta ask though, whats up with 11:1?

Why not go a little higher?

Winter Tires????Man, what you thinking?

What size wheels are you running?

You gotta drop alot of weight and get some the Aero down...Get panels like the foglight covers, but place them everywhere that theres a gap, fold in your mirrors, Get the Front and Rear FHI Reinforcement Replacements, Tighten up your suspension with a set of Ver.6 Linear Springs and Ver.5 struts...Look into stiffer bushings....Pull out your airbags and remove the bag from the covers...Pull out the dash and remove all the unneccessary bracing...Keep the stuff you use like A/C and power options...But get rid of weight, stiffen up the chassis, and get the car more streamlined...And if you stick with this N/A impreza, look into really breaking the records and run 12's with a semi-race car without turbo...Would love to see you turn 12s...

The aero panels should be only for the quarter mile runs at the track and the other mods should be in your daily drive...

Whats your plans?

Zee

 

Zee,

Thnaks man!

I had winters on my stock rims and I dont have my stock tires...I normally run 17s by speedline which are too heavy, the winters made a good difference. I removed all the unessary stuff for the run, Ill need mroe prep time to do what u said...I do have for covers though. I couldnt reach the dampening ***** on my struts and they wree too dirty to read...I doddnt get the chance to do that when I went, the onyl think we overlooked.

11:1 was the highest we though we should go for tuning and steetability issues we might encounter. I need a good standalone setup for my car...im using a unichip right now and its no good. With the standalone and the 9 l flywheel we will hit 13s for sure...and we will tuen the car for a 100 shot of nitrus form a NX wet kit down the road...its built for it witht he coated pistons and enough clearence int he sleeves so the motor wont cease with the added heat (the motors safety/reliability was first on the list ).

I like you reccomendations fo removing weight, it will be a project to do all that aftet the new management (please help me out, i havent found waht i need yet, its tough).

Anyway,Im stickng to N/A for sure, no turning back now!

Thanks for your reply man.

Dan

 

You should really look into using the TEC3 or the Link or the SDS Engine Management Systems...

The Link is the easiest to install but the SDS and the TEC will get you the most control...

Also build a Box for your airfilter that encloses it from heat and have a larger scoop that seals the top of the box...If you run hard enough you could see 1psi of boost from the Ram Air...

Your heads should flow well enough to pull in that air when under pressure...

If you really can afford it, I would look into raising the compression by welding the combustion chambers of your heads, increasing the size of your valves and running more lift and longer duration cams...

But, the cheaper way to get faster is to drop weight...Pull all that you don't need out and replace the parts that you need with lightweight components...

What are all the parts on your car...Not just engine but body, suspension, and interio?

Zee

 

Zee-

I am looking into link right now, but my brother is very good with tuning tecs, its a toughie, and Im going to hold my breath on this one until i find the perfect one...it'll be a winter project.

I do have higher lift, longer duration cams...the cobb cams, they make power up to 8,500 rpm, the most agessive for N/A suby's, lumpy idle too which I like.

Im going to drop weight fromt he car too, but nothing right away, i want to keep the stock bumper beams, Ben who works at Lachute Subaru is a friend of mine and he told me he would not want to sell me the light weight bumper beams becuase of the increase in risk of a bad injury in a potentially minor wreck...he would not sell then to me period and really explained why, he wouldn't put them in his own car either (supercharged RS).

my other mods are:

KYB AGX/Ground Control suspension
whiteline adj. swaybar
cobb shortshifter and bushing
Tintanium subaru shift ****
STi pedal set
WRX rotors (soon to be very upgraded)
Ver 6 lip
Ver6 grill
painted sides
rear spats
22B wing
Gold speedline supertourismos 17" rims
Bridgestone potenza RE 730 rubber
Cusco camber adj mounts comming soon
Whiteline anti lift kit (waiting to find time to install it)
Autometer Phanton A/F gauge
Autometer Phantom Oil press gauge
Autometer Phantom fuel press gauge (all need to be installed)
Carbon fiber pod being made by my brother


Thats about if for now, i think i might be forgetting something, what about you??

Also my brothe rna di are going to order parts to make a cusom titanium full staight pipe exhaust, we are making equal length headers also...Im curious how it will sound.

Later man,
Dan

 

Well, I have the Lightweight Bumper Beams and I've been bumped into 3 times in the front...Nothing hard but hard enough to split the bumper...If you are staying N/A then weight loss is your only means of gaining speed with the limited power you can make...I still feel you can go with higher lift/longer duration cams that can sing till about 9500RPM and up the compression to 11.5:1, run the TWE Race Header, and get that engine management sorted out...

My 2000 RS is swapped with a 2002 WRX Drivetrain running 15psi stock...HKS DownPipe, Tanabe MidPipe, and a piece of my stock Midpipe that has to go soon...So, its a 75mm then 50mm for the last foot, no muffler...

Suspension is Ver.5Struts, Ver. 6 Springs, TRI Tuning Rear Strut Tower Bar, FHI 20mm Rear Bar, Whiteline Rear Endlinks, Cusco Rear Tie Bar, FHI Front Strut Tower Bar, PowerFlex Bushings going in soon...

Carbon Hood, Lightweight Front and Rear Beams, Removed Complete SRS Airbag system, some other things that I can't remember right now...

Zee

 

lol alot of **** done to get in the low 14s huh, looks like someone needs a v8

 

Lovely comment, but not really nesesary.

Looks like someone doesnt know about restrictive intake manifolds and engine management.

My brother and I are making an intake manifold for the car since the stock one simply will not allow any more air into the engine, restricting my hp for now. The new manifold will have seperate plenums (dual throttle body) and the runners will be adjustable so we can find the optimal height on the dyno when i go back there.

If you read the post you would see that I was using a piggy back management system on my motor (it simply could not tune the motor), now Im using a full standalone which was dyno tuned (LINK).

If I get a new bolt to reconnect my driveshaft, ill go back to the track this weekend and try again. 13s arent very far off at all, motors wont perform well if they arent tuned properly.

This car is a project, no one has done it before and it will take time to perfect, so those comments arent nesessary. Im doing something different and i cant exactly ask someone why my car isnt performing like it should. I have figure it out, in this case I need to build a new intake manifold.

This is also my track car/daily driver. I go to race tracks (not a straight line) and race against all types of cars every week. I go to the 1/4 just to see improvements. This motor makes sense becuase it is tough as nails and wont have any problems with overheating.

Dan

 

Its a closed deck block bored to almost to 2.6 litres with forged internals. the crankshaft was also lightend, balanced and knife edged.

The dual tb's will be hard, but we have some ideas to make it easier. And to keep the cruise control. We will also are making an equalization tube between the two plenums to equalize them.

Thanks fro the good words man, always appreciated. Im going to give it another shot at the track friday since it nice and cool (actually its freezing here!).

Dan

PS: Once Im done with the motor and push out as much as it can N/A I am installing a 100 shot of nitrous from an NX wet kit to top it off. Then its all done after this winter...finally!

 

lol omg lets just say when you can run with the big dog come get me until then keep your sled in the shed

 

all those mods....and 14s? seems kinda Monogamous. The ej25 is verry limited with what U can do to it....even though u say you have a closed deck block? why bother with such a highliy modified engine if you're not gona go forced induction? whats the point of having a bulletproof block if you can only pump out MAYBEE 250 hp tops? then you say your gona run No2? what kind of power gains are you hoping for ?

I would really like to see just HOW MUCH power you can squeeeez out of that thing......as I also own an ej25. But When for only 1300 bucks I could swap out an ej22T shortblock(then sell my ej25 to make my money back) and then install a kurbo kit for under 5 grand............to get 400 WHP EASY!....... I dont understand all the fideling. But thats just me....