harrydunn02

alrighty, i just picked up a obd-2 code reader, and i have 2 codes- p0122 with a (pd) after it, and p0336. the manual says the first is TPS low input, and the second is crankshaft position sensor CKT range/perf. as far as engine sound, i have the exhaust off, so it sounds a little different when its turning over, but nothing grabbed my attention. should i put the exhaust system back on, so it has backpressure and 02 sensor outputs, or should it still start without all that? ill try the fuel injector test as soon as i can.

instructorbill

iTrader: (2)

I'd be willing to bet that it's not running because you don't have the crankshaft position sensor plugged in

It is pretty much underneath the alternator

As far as the TPS... could be that it's not plugged in

Fuel injectors will not fire unless you have the CPS plugged in and working. If the crankshaft position sensor doesn't sense enging rotation you will not have spark or fuel. I would focus on the crankshaft position sensor first. See if it is plugged in, if it is plugged in and not working, change it out for the one that was on your old engine.

Cheers!
Bill

harrydunn02

thanks again, ill give it a shot just got back from my honeymoon so i havent messed with it at all. one quick question on the TPS, since the connector type was different between both engines sensors, i spliced the 2.2s into the 1.8 harness so it would hook up, which it does. i also assumed that the three wires would be in the same position and used that as my reference, since the color codes were different. is there a way of finding out if the wires were hooked up improperly besides guess and check? or maybe bad sensor? thanks

instructorbill

iTrader: (2)

You have the same CEL code for an IACV valve that is not plugged in.

Guess and check the wires on an IACV valve for correctness> The easiest way would be to use the wiring diagrams for each car you've got and cross reference the pinouts (i'm not that great at reading subaru's spaghetti diagrams myself)

I've never had to do that, but my advice would be to check both the IAC valves at their input plug (not the harness but the valves themselves) Check for resistance between terminals 1 and 2, 1 and 3, and 2 and 3 write the results down for each valve and see what you end up with. I guess it is possible that you've got them mixed up. In principle, the Idle air control valve is a two way motor that opens and closes the valve. The ECU applies voltage in one direction to open the valve to allow more air to bypass the throttle body and applies voltage in the other direction to allow less air to bypass the TB. Your ecu senses that it doesn't have a circuit, or has a faulty one ie.. a short or improper resistance.

I do know that the designs of the throttlebody mounted IACV and the manifold mounted IACV are different but I don't know if the manufacturer is different or if their inputs are different or in different locations.

I don't know how good you are at soldering... how is that splice that you put in? Is it possible that you have one or more bad connections? You may wish to check those as well.

harrydunn02

ok ive almost got it, i unclipped and cleaned the CPS sensor and camshaft pos sensor, and found one short in the wire. took care of all that, and its no longer throwing the P0336 code. now it gives me two P0122 codes, one with a (pending) after it. so according to my reader, the TPS is my problem now. the solders look solid, which narrows things down to the sensor. so correct me if im wrong here, but i figure its one of 3 things
TPS sensor is shot
TPS is fine, but the 2.2 sensor has different resistance than 1.8 sensor
Throttle cable improperly adjusted

any ideas on how i can figure this out?

btw, i checked my splicing and i misspoke earlier- the wire colors for the TPS in both engines are the same, so im no longer worried about a mix up there. and luckily i didnt have to splice the IACV, but just to check i tried reading the CEL codes with the TPS unplugged and it threw the same codes.

instructorbill

iTrader: (2)

for some reason I was mixed up on your issues...

I was thinking you were having a problem with the idle air control valve.

I have a 2.5 tps, 2.2 tps and a 1.8 at home but will be unable to check until tomorrow morning around 10:00 am when I get home. I'll check the resistances of them all... they should be the same at WOT and at idle (closed) and smoothly changing in resistance at all positions in between--I think

If the tps is working...

It may run right now-- now that you've got the CPS worked out... just poorly. You can (if you get it running) screw around with the throttle position sensor moving it fore and aft until you get the lowest smoothest idle... then tighten it down.

did you remove or loosen the TPS from the throttle body at any point in the swap? It may be just poorly adjusted and not broken. It only belongs at one position. Usually when you have to remove one for any reason you want to mark it in such a way that it can be returned to its originally installed position.

harrydunn02

yeah, regrettably i did remove the tps at one point, and the marking job i did apparrently was not accurate. i also am not positive if i got the throttle cable tensioned properly, since it seems like the distance between the throttle linkage and the stop is different between the two engines. even with the CPS fixed though, it wont start up. itll cough and sputter and sounds like its cranking, and i can smell gas, but no dice. i wonder if i somehow screwed up the timing, if that would do it? i changed the timing belt, but my buddies and i were very careful to align the reference marks. but im open to anything at this point

instructorbill

iTrader: (2)

the throttle cable adjustment will not in any way affect the engine's ability to run. The idle air control valve is acting as the "throttle stop" or "idle speed adjustment" that you may have had on a carbed car that kept the butterfly open slightly... The idle air control meters air AROUND the throttle body and not through it. That being said... the car will run without any throttle cable at all.


You say you've got spark, you've got fuel at the tail pipe... any blinking of a test lamp at each of the injector plugs? Try a compression test?

You changed the timing belt... It's pretty straight forward but did you rotate the engine a few turns to make sure that the marks still lined up? If done incorrectly the marks will be off a bit. You can pull the covers and check the cam marks.

Mess with the TPS fore and aft and see what you end up with. This thing has got to run. You've got me scratching my head though.

harrydunn02

well, a friend of mine was over the other day, and after he listened to the noise my engine made while i cranked it, hes convinced its a timing problem. but i remember when putting the t-belt on, there were 3 of us, and if we were off it was by well less than a tooth. is it possible to be off by less than a tooth? oh and ive messed with the tps and will continue to do so till i get that dialed in. thanks again for the help. ill owe you big time when all this is said and done

harrydunn02

ok, quick update- pulled the inspection covers off, and the timing belt was a little off. so, i got that fixed, rotated the engine a few times, everything still lined up. put it all back together and changed spark plugs for posteritys sake, and all of the plugs smelled of gas except for the number1. so i assume either the injector is bad or i have a short somewhere, so i just use multimeter to check for voltage, right? also, when i cranked it for about 5 or 6 seconds, it made 2 distinct "poof" sounds, loud enough to startle my helper. any chance i just got a bum engine, like the valves were screwed up, or something? it feels like im just beating my head against a pole at this point.
oh and for the compression test, is there a generic tool i could get at autozone or someplace? never done that before.

mariuzs

i just did simillar swap, i swaped EJ22 engine from MY93 AT legacy to my MY94 EJ18 MT impreza.
And the engine won't start, it get's a misfire. I found that the EJ22 crankshaft sprocket timing triggers are diferent to EJ18, because EJ18 goes without knock and camshaft sensors, is this a problem?

harrydunn02

our 18s must be different (maybe because yours is obd1 ?) because mine has all the same sensors, but now that you mention it, the crankshaft trigger does look to be a little different. but since im using the stock ej22 sensor, and the 1.8s wiring harness plugs in no problem, i hadnt given it a second thought.

another interesting development though, my CEL is still on, but since i erased the codes a few days ago after tinkering with some stuff, when i plug in to the obd2 it gives me no codes. i thought that was kinda wierd

mariuzs

i tried splice EJ22 sensor to EJ18 harnes and i get the same misfire, then i took a look to triggers and found that they are different ( count the same, but diferent distance between triggers), damn, tonight i'm gonna swap them over and try to start engine.

harrydunn02

instructorbill, if i cant get this engine working, do you have any leads on any used, rebuilt or remanufactured engines for a reasonable price, and what engine would you recomend? ej25, or ej20, or what? thanks, and i hope it doesnt come to a new engine, but just in case...

mariuzs

yeah, mine EJ22 started at half of a crank, and idles
triggers was the problem.
Do you checked yours motors triggers?