Why does my steering wheel SHAKE under heavy braking?
07-02-2005, 10:56 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by n192da
Well, actually it's funny you guys mention that.
In those last 3,000 miles I've ridden across the Siskiyou Summit (elev. ~4500 ft) at least a half a dozen times. Needless to say, there's some periods of heavy braking, as I tend to run at a quick pace through the mountains (hey, it's fun!)
But, uh... wow, that's WEAK if the stock rotors can't handle some mountain driving.
WEAK WEAK WEAK
This sounds like a flaw to me. How the hell do you guys who do trackdays/autocross days not fry your rotors?
EDIT: so it sounds like it's definately not a tire problem, now. Hmm.
How much for new rotors (I don't need top of the line performance stuff, just something that works like the OEM did (or didn't, as it was)).
How much for turning?
EDIT EDIT: how hard is it to do the turning myself? Is there a HOW-TO on this?
In those last 3,000 miles I've ridden across the Siskiyou Summit (elev. ~4500 ft) at least a half a dozen times. Needless to say, there's some periods of heavy braking, as I tend to run at a quick pace through the mountains (hey, it's fun!)
But, uh... wow, that's WEAK if the stock rotors can't handle some mountain driving.
WEAK WEAK WEAK
This sounds like a flaw to me. How the hell do you guys who do trackdays/autocross days not fry your rotors?
EDIT: so it sounds like it's definately not a tire problem, now. Hmm.
How much for new rotors (I don't need top of the line performance stuff, just something that works like the OEM did (or didn't, as it was)).
How much for turning?
EDIT EDIT: how hard is it to do the turning myself? Is there a HOW-TO on this?
07-02-2005, 09:41 PM
#17
FWIW, on my toyota truck, i had the worst luck with warping rotors.
i mean 8-10 months was my cycle between vibrations through the steering wheel would occur when braking, and only when braking.
2-3 turnings of the rotors, they are way beyond the min specs.
so i gave in and got cross drilled brembos. that was like 5-6 years ago. went through 2 sets of pads. i have yet to have any rotor problems since.
the other thing i did was buy a torque wrench. once, pep boys did some work on my truck and the monkey who worked on it, just jammed his air gun and tightened it. even when i pointed to their sign on the wall saying "all lug nuts must be torque..."
so as soon as he pulled it from their work bays, i immediately grabbed my torque wrench and big 4-way lug nut wrench. first i loosened the lug nuts and then tightened them right in front of the guy.
then i went to the manager, who didnt do much and i emailed their national office about the incidence.
i mean 8-10 months was my cycle between vibrations through the steering wheel would occur when braking, and only when braking.
2-3 turnings of the rotors, they are way beyond the min specs.
so i gave in and got cross drilled brembos. that was like 5-6 years ago. went through 2 sets of pads. i have yet to have any rotor problems since.
the other thing i did was buy a torque wrench. once, pep boys did some work on my truck and the monkey who worked on it, just jammed his air gun and tightened it. even when i pointed to their sign on the wall saying "all lug nuts must be torque..."
so as soon as he pulled it from their work bays, i immediately grabbed my torque wrench and big 4-way lug nut wrench. first i loosened the lug nuts and then tightened them right in front of the guy.
then i went to the manager, who didnt do much and i emailed their national office about the incidence.
07-02-2005, 11:35 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
they are most likely ur rotors like everyone is saying, get drilled and slotted
I would never get drilled or slotted rotors unless I went with larger brakes. If you get drilled/slotted rotors without increasing the size of your brake pad, you will be decreasing the contact area between the pad and the rotor.
Also, when control arms are going out, it causes a similar problem. My 2000 528i has worn out control arms, and the wheel vibrates under heavy braking, and the rotors are fine.
07-03-2005, 11:51 AM
#23
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get drilled and slotted
Slotted are always a good option no matter what size pad/brake system you are using, they tend to dissipate debris/heat.
my $0.02
-Noah
07-03-2005, 09:36 PM
#24
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Car Info: 2002 MBP WRX, 2012 OBP STi wagon
it takes about an hour to replace rotors and brake pads on all 4 tires, with the proper tools. If you have access to an air compressor and some air tools, a good socket wrench set, a good jack, and some room to work, you can do it yourself. I've done it, and it's really not that difficult.
07-04-2005, 02:01 PM
#26
Dahveed aka Robin Hood
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as others have said, your rotors are likely warped, or as StopTech LLC likes to say, you either have a rotor that has "uneven pas residue buildup" or is "not bolted perfectly flat to the hub", FWIW.
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