I switched between 5w and 10W depending on the season. I go back and forth to the mountains in the winter. TO be honest 90% of early motor failures are due to the OEM fuel mapping and lean conditions cause by a delay in open/closed loop function. This problem has been around since 2004. Under what SOA would assume is "normal driving" I.E. soccer mom, it's is very unlikely you'll be in this condition for any length of time. Certainly not long enough to cause severe detonation. Now for you and I and 95% of the Subaru community, we see an AWD blast. Something that's fun to mash the pedal. This is where we get into trouble. Couple a sprinted driving style with an up-pipe, Down pipe and a cattless TBE and you've turned a condition that was controllable by the ECU into a ticking time bomb. You end up extending this lean condition for another 400-600rpm everytime you mash the gas. I don't care what kind of oil you put in, it's not going to save your bearings. My suggestion is use a quality motor oil, change it regularly. If you find yourself wanting to put the power down, even if you are running stock everything, get it tuned. If you're going to mod anything in terms of changing the way fuel or air is delivered, get it tuned first. Don't throw a TBE on and start saving for your tune. Tuning will save your motor. If you find yourself in a situation that you are OEM and blow your motor be prepared for "tear down estimate". This procedure will most certainly leave a bad taste in your mouth. In order for Subaru to warranty the repair they will tear it down, inspect the damage, submit their findings to SOA warranty service and 9 time out of 10 will deny your claim due to the type of damage that occurred. See from their perspective if the person filing the claim was driving under "normal conditions" the rod bearing wouldn't have fail. So at the end of the day you end up with a labor bill for tearing down the motor, no warranty service, no running car. This might not be the case all the time but like I said 9 time out of 10 this is what you'll run into.

 

Not if SOA knows its a problem. All of the OEM 09's are no questions asked replacement long block and turbo.

 

Dude, all I can do is share my experiences. I've had more than I'm happy to admit. You can take what you want from them. FWIW I wish I would have listened to a few suggestions that I threw to the wind. Good Luck...
Jeff

 

did you got to jersy joes?

 

whinchester auto,

i use 0W - 30w 2000 series ( 11.95 a pop )

and i change oil @ 2000 miles

 

That's a lot of oil.com