pcowan

iTrader: (4)

So with the RallyX season fast approaching and me being able to actually race in the whole season, I'm stuck with a dilema: how to set up the ultimate RallyX car. The car we're starting with is a 04 STi w/ vishnu stage2. I'll have all the power I need... actually more power than I need probably. So these are the questions I'm trying to answer:

* how much power to I realisticly need? 200whp did me pretty well with the WRX, 220whp was workable with the first race in the STi. How much is too much?

* traction: I don't want to go into open class so we're not going to go with gravel tires. Do I want wide or narrow... gravel perfomance (M+S tires) or clay performance (sticky rubber)? what's the best tire within the regulation .25 groove width?

* tranny: short shifter? redline oil? groupN mounts and bushings?

* steering: definately bushing, different ratio? ALK?

* brakes: should I get WRX calipers and rotors? ..it'd save weight and allow more wheel choices. better e-brake options?

the question is: can I over come my lack of driving ability with technology and force air and beat Hoche?

dropkick_muppet

iTrader: (4)

i'd think that a Stage 2 STi would have plenty of power for Rally-X, if not too much unless you're running in an Open Class.

tire choice depends on what sort of surface you're running on. if its a loose top layer on top of a hard bottom layer, you're going to want narrower tires. they'll cut through the top, and bite on the lower layer. for loose surfaces without a hard bottom layer a couple inches down, wider tires with lower pressures are the way to go.

as for the tranny, group-n mounts, busings and redline or moutl oil all sound good to me. i'd do that for a street car too though.

steering bushings will make a huge differance, and the ALK will be noticeable. a new rack is $$$, and might not be legal i'd imagine.

what are you running for suspension?

Group B

iTrader: (3)

yeah really, this can't be at stock ride height...

soggynuts

get a really big spoiler.

Daredevil

iTrader: (5)

remove ABS fuse

ish

iTrader: (7)

no you can't

a good driver in a piece of crap can beat a n00b driver in a rally-preped car.

platypus

iTrader: (1)

and Hoche is a damn fine driver, as has been proven the last couple of years. What I'm planning on doing this year for the rallyX setup is going with more tarmac-like settings, since there aren't a lot of big bumps to have to soak up. Basically low CG and semi-stiff suspension setup, to allow for some mechanical grip (if that term can even be made to apply on the clay out at Thill), and count on my tires to hook up when I can get them pointed in a straight line. As we've seen in the past, power does not necessarily equal speed on the rallyX course.

pcowan

iTrader: (4)

indeed... maybe what I really need to do is crank back to 0psi and run the STi NA... it works for Hoche

Which is why I was asking about the power. I can scale it back to whatever it should be... how much power is too much for RallyX?

The surface is mostly clay with dirt/gravel around the edges and on top. The suspension is stock STi right now.
So here's a radical thought: if I go with much stiffer springs and take off the swaybar, will that help keep tires in better contact with the surface under cornering?

Hey Hoche, he's calling your OBS a piece of crap! You gonna take that?

pcowan

iTrader: (4)

sweet!! I hadn't even thought of stickers. What's kanji for "insert witty phrase here"?


I think with a new turbo, chip, injectors, fuel pump and turbo back exhaust I'll be in SSM4 anyway.

I'm pretty much at stage 1.6 now (injectors are on back order), but it's very fast. On my way home from Vishnu last night I had my friend following my in his tuned 911 cab... he had a hard time keeping up on both the straights and the curves.

platypus

iTrader: (1)

stiffer springs with no roll bars... hmm...

stiffer springs will act to resist weight transfer via roll centers, so that will result in less overall weight transfer, which will get you a more stable car as you transition between brake/gas and left/right. This would be a good thing in that the car should be more predictable in handling, even on dirt (you should get less of a "whiplash" effect, especially in cornering. Stiffer springs (for thunderhill rallycross) would probably be good.

Now, removing the roll bars will allow more range of motion for the suspension, effectively adding some to the weight transfer via roll centers on the car, so it would cancel out some of the gains you're seeing from the springs, but it will allow for greater "articulation" in the suspension which could easily allow the tires to retain a better contact patch with the ground, allowing for (potentially) better accelleration and braking on the dirt.

my take: springs - good idea, no roll bar - maybe go with a smaller one rather than none at all.

This clearly calls for some science to be done.

dropkick_muppet

iTrader: (4)

completely removing or simply disconnecting the sway bar on a car is an old off-roaders trick. you'll get a lot more suspension articulation, but at the cost of a lot of body roll. this is only of benefit on really slow, rough terrain where you need lots of artiulation to gain grip, but aren't going fast enough to cause big dynamic weight shifts. based on my experience driving 4wd vehicles without a sway bar, i'd reccomned finding a smaller bar rather than removing or disconnecting the stock one.

i think that stiffer springs used in conjunction with a smaller diameter sway bar will offer a better and more predictable ride on the surfaces you'll be racing on.

depending on how deep the gravel on top of the clay is, i'd be tempted to try running thinner tires in the hope that they'd cut through the gravel and grab into the clay.

platypus

iTrader: (1)

2 out of 2 self styled suspension experts agree - smaller is bettAr!

edit: grap on my spelling

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

I need a beer

hoche

My OBS isn't a piece of cr... oh wait.

Nevermind.