Cody8675309

iTrader: (3)

Get out the yellow pages and start calling around. Find a shop that agrees to patch (not plug) it. They should dismount the tire and patch the inside. Problem solved.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

There is a very big difference between a fresh, shaved RA-1 and a street tire that has been worn down to the same level over time on the street. Age and heat cycling have as much to do with performance as wear in some cases.

Track officials allow RA-1's that are properly shaved or even worn down because they are race rubber. You cannot say that "because a nearly bald RA-1, V700, whateva is allowed that a street tire worn to the same level would also be allowed." Again, race and street rubber compounds are very different.

A 'similarly worn' RE070 would be the most cost effective choice IF he can find one that is worn to a safe enough stage to not kill the diffs. Also, this tire will have to be mounted - and unless you know someone, you WILL NOT get a tire shop to mount a nearly worn tire for you. I am sure there are some exceptions to this rule, but those would be special circumstances.

If most tires are faster at the end of their tread life, then why do even race tires come with tread? Food for thought. Thought is good. MMmmmmm.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

This would definitely work - however, don't mention it to anyone and note that this should be a patch and not a plug as mentioned above - very important. I have had a patched tire last a long time on a previous car.

resident smurf

iTrader: (3)

...for rain use?

I think I'm going to side with the frontrunners and run my dry tires shaved.

Real "race" dry tires do not come with tread.



F1 tires have grooves, but no "tread pattern" like RA-1's. They only have grooves because the FIA mandates them to do so to reduce grip...lol.

RA-1's are budget race tires that last forever. People who want to do trackdays can run full-tread RA-1's, and they can also use full-tread RA-1's in the rain. They are versatile, but they are by no means in the same league as real race tires. DOT R-compounds are far off from leading edge slicks.

resident smurf

iTrader: (3)

As with RA-1's, V700's, Dunlop Super Sport Race, (take your pick or throw in another DOT-R tire), RE070's can be run safely on the track in the dry past their wear bars. That is the only point I'm making.

I am not telling him to run bald RE070's on the verge of cording or blowing out. I am saying for him to find a good, close to his tread depth RE070. He would have to buy one that has more than 2/32nds of tread otherwise most tire installers would refuse to service him. He could always go to AIM Tire at the track and have them mount up the rubber. They don't care because they know that a 2/32nds tire is absolutely safe to run on the track (unless it has other issues like sidewall damage or otherwise).

Heat cycled tires are not dangerous to drive on as long as the carcass is still intact. Grip levels are reduced, so cornering speeds are reduced as well. Hell, I race on heat cycled out RA-1's because I don't need that extra second. The frontrunners can worry about that. I'm happy in the middle of the pack, and I do so on legally worn RA-1's well past their prime.

Onizuka

iTrader: (17)

I have a set of 4 RE070's that I've had on my car for about 24k miles, not much use and should have a lot of meat left on them (since I don't drive my car hard in corners much). Asking 300 for the set of 4.

psoper

OK so maybe NASA HDPE and some other track events will be OK with you at the wear bars (still not something I would do, but hey it's your car).

on the other hand; if you are considering either of these groups events:

http://www.silverstateclassicchallen...es-1-index.htm

http://www.openroadracing.com/html/rules.html

- don't even THINK of showing up at an open road race that way or you will be told to go buy a new set of tires or go home.

blinguskahn

iTrader: (1)

Damn that's bank. I have a set of them with less than 3k miles for $350.

resident smurf

iTrader: (3)

that sounds about right for some almost-new RE070's... where's humboldt? the county that includes pacifica?

psoper

no, the county that includes Arcata, about 5 hours north of SF;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humbold...on_and_culture

andyf

iTrader: (3)

Update, with pic of tread and nail.

Looking at it again, it looks like there's plenty of tread left.... I have no idea why the first shop denied me. I'm gonna call around and see if I can get it patched.... otherwise, I may be interested in your sets (Onizuka or blinguskahn).

psoper

I'd say the shop you took it to was clueless, you are still quite a ways away from wear-bars.

idiots must have thought because the outside tread pattern was worn, some people are so stupid.....

STi-owns-evo

iTrader: (4)

Freaking supid people. You have atleast 1-2/32ns of tread is which ~ 10-20% of tread before those wear bars. Though, remember as someone stated earlier that the speed rating of tires go down as patches are added to the tires. Take that into consideration when you decide which tires to put on which corners.

What tire company did you go to? If you're close to an America's Tire Co. I think they changed their policy again to all flat repairs are free whether you bought the tires from them or not.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

RA-1's are not the only race tire, I used those as an example.

Racing slicks do not come with tread, this is probably why they are called slicks. There are R-Compound tires that come with tread, that are NOT geared as rain-only. I understand that you cannot back down from your point, and that is fine - but there is no point to continuing this - feel as right as you want from here on out.

As far as thread content, we are saying the exact same thing.

FYI your RA-1s will last a lot longer if you have them shaved, unless you are doing light laps and not driving hard enough to chunk the tread blocks.

andyf

iTrader: (3)

I went to Firestone on El Camino in Sunnyvale... There's an America's Tire a few blocks away... I'll check em out.