Yeah, the Snap On is a bit out of the price range for now. In the future maybe I'll get one, but for now I'm thinking probably something with an upper limit around the $150 mark.

Also, trying to figure out if I should get a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench. I would think the 3/8" should typically be plenty for changing tires on the Subaru and normal cars, but it seems that the 1/2" ones have a higher upper limit.

Mikey have you used the Griot's Garage one before?

I'm noticing that a lot of them look pretty identical so it wouldn't surprise me if a lot of the brands are coming out of the same factory with just a different Manufacturer label on them.

 

Amazon.com: CDI Torque 2503MFRMH 1/2-Inch Drive Metal Handle Click Type Torque Wrench, Torque Range 30 to 250-Fo: Home Improvement

I am not sure the details, but this says by snap on and is under 150

 

Sure, did my first ever torque down and wheel swaps with it. My nephew owns it, comes in a nice sturdy hard plastic case and everything. Very solid built, as well as in the feel and gear click. He got his about 10 years ago maybe. Not sure if they updated or made any renditions to the design.

Get 1/2" because you can just get an adapter for smaller sizes; which is what I do. Its easier to start from big and work your way down, rather than start low and hope that it will stand and not snap-on high load. No pun intended.


Since we are on the subject. For those who may or may not know, after use always set your torque wrench down to 0 or at least <10 ft lbs, and never fully unload the spring by untwisting all the way. Leaving it on load for long term periods will mess up its calibration and will need to be recalibrated.

 

Cheap sticks aren't often accurate. I found this out the hard way. Mine was 20 lbs off. I found this out when I almost lost a wheel driving down the road.

 

Harbor freight ones are +_ 6% accuracy...... for those who didnt notice. I keep one in the trunk for on the go emergencies though. Very useful.

 

zombie outbreak ?!?! LOL

 

When I needa torque a zombies mouth shut at 80ft-lbs with +_6% accuracy

 

+1 for the CDI. SnapOn side brand. I use one for engine builds.

I use a 1/2" craftsman for chassis stuff and wheels, 3/8" CDI when I need greater accuracy.

 

I have a craftsman 3/8", a CDI 1/2" and two snap on 3/8 and 1/2"

For the money the craftsman is fine and relatively accurate.

The CDI is my go to most of the time but I notice that the accuracy is a just a little off at the lower ranges of adjustment.

The snap on ones are rock solid but would be pricey if you don't have a hookup on price.

I had an ace hardware one for many years that was only about $40 IIRC and it worked "ok" but broke eventually. They replaced it for free though and I gave it to a friend when I got the snap on set from a iclub member a couple of years ago.

 

I use snap on.

 

Any recommendations for what range of adjustment to get? I was thinking 20-150ft/lb

 

I use a Husky 1/2" for my wheels and larger torque "weights" but I have a small Craftsman for more precise jobs.

 

IMO you don't need a snap on unless you are working on cars all day every day. For a professional mechanic, tools are a career investment, so yes they spend $$$ on them. But for your purposes, a craftsman is perfectly capable, unless you're doing engine work. I've used my craftsman torque wrench for years with no problems.

 

Exactly what I was about to say. Definitely get a SnapOn, Matco, $300+ one if this is to be used professionally. I've been fine with a Craftsman and Husky one for a very long time. Treat em with respect, don't drop them and never abuse it like using it as an alternative breaker bar and they will be great for your home garage.

 

I have this one: Shop Kobalt 1/2-in Drive Click 50 Ft-lbs - 250 Ft-lbs Torch Wrench at Lowes.com

Got it 3 years ago. Seems to be working fine but I never checked it calibration actually. It's made in the USA (if that matters) unlike Craftsmans FWIK.