Siezed Downpipe Bolts
#17
Da Brit.
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,808
Car Info: http://tinyurl.com/3vo4362
It's especially odd that you had this much trouble considering they must have already been removed at least once since you have an aftermarket downpipe.
When I installed my downpipe and loosened these bolts for the first time they only required a minor amount of PB Blaster. When I touched them again to put the stock DP on a couple months ago the bolts were cake. I wonder what factors other than heat cycling contributes to the seizing that happens on some and not others.
When I installed my downpipe and loosened these bolts for the first time they only required a minor amount of PB Blaster. When I touched them again to put the stock DP on a couple months ago the bolts were cake. I wonder what factors other than heat cycling contributes to the seizing that happens on some and not others.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Livermore
Posts: 233
Car Info: Subaru WRX 2005
I had same experience on my car but when swapping a friends, we swapped for a smog, went to swap back and the bolt was seized. The do wa only on the car for an hour tops. Didnt matter how much torque i gave it, the bolt was seized. I ended up buying a few cutting disks and a Dremel and just cutting off the seized bolts.
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 331
Car Info: Limited WRX WFC #1122
I had this happen to me this week, and it was the very bottom bolt. The annoying one to get too. All you need is some PB blaster let that sit for an hour then take a torch and heat it up so its almost glowing red. Then it should break loose, it worked for me. And i tried everything lol
#25
VIP Member
iTrader: (31)
I've seen enough spark plugs and exhaust parts end up harder to take out after having anti-seize put on that I've learned not to do that. The high temps just bake it into a nasty, sticky mess and almost glue the part instead of making it easy to remove. The best thing you can do is soak it in PB Blaster. If you know the bolt doesn't want to move and are handy with a torch you could also wait for everything to cool down and then hit the nut with some heat. If a stud breaks and theres still enough of it to get ahold of, a can of PB Blaster and a good (big) set of vise grips will be your best friend.
#26
i had to cut 2 of mine off with a dremel too.
i thought i did something retarded to my car to get it screwed up like that, but it's a relief to find this thread and realize im not the only one who experienced this problem.