Seized engine: need recommended shop to diagnose/repair in Socal (Irvine area)
07-07-2011, 12:58 AM
#16
call outfront motorsports, they do a lot of the real engine work for most of the shops. they'll give you a no BS price.
call my friends at apollo performance for labor quotes, tell them you're friends with jordan, ask for gino.
call my friends at apollo performance for labor quotes, tell them you're friends with jordan, ask for gino.
07-07-2011, 09:18 AM
#17
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I'd trailer it to Suby Specialties in Monrovia (up the 57) to get my car worked on. One of his techs spent years working for Subaru R & D, and he knows his motors. Steve is also one of the most honest techs/owners I've ever had the pleasure of doing business with. Think if LIC Motorsports got cloned and placed in SoCal. One of two shops I'd hand the keys to, and NEVER have to question the work, the price, or the quality.
He's worked closely with Subaru for many, many years. Remember the Forester Sports concept in 2005? Built in his shop. I'd say he knows what he is doing.
07-07-2011, 09:24 AM
#18
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You'd be looking at:
Along with all of this you have labor, as well as possibly having to deal with getting a new clutch if yours is worn, cleaning and testing your injectors if you really want to, and then spending even more money for more power. It's definitely not cheap when the engine goes on these cars.
- Around $2000 for a brand new short block
- $1000+ for all the accessories seeing that your engine seized and had a lot of miles on it
- Oil Cooler
- Oil Pump
- Timing Belt
- Tensioner
- Master Gasket Kit
- Possibly new pulleys
- Head studs
- etc
- $1000+ for headwork depending on the shop
- Inspection and testing
- Surface and clean
- 5 angle grind job
- Possibly new guides
- Setting valve lash
- (Hopefully your valves and springs are fine)
Along with all of this you have labor, as well as possibly having to deal with getting a new clutch if yours is worn, cleaning and testing your injectors if you really want to, and then spending even more money for more power. It's definitely not cheap when the engine goes on these cars.
07-07-2011, 06:50 PM
#19
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Car Info: 07 STi, 02 F150-FX4, 04 ZX-636, 07 990 SuperDuke
Yeah, as I have realized a "new" engine will be a considerable cost and it won't be cheap to get this thing back on the road. I really don't plan on trying to upgrade components, I'm already far enough in the hole as it stands now. BTW, the car just ticked over 90k when the engine seized and both mechanics are unsure why failure occured given that oil levels were normal and it seemed to be running great up until the point of disaster.
I lost a ringland on one of my pistons at around 78K and decided to rebuild the motor myself. It helps lower the price a bit if you have the tools, time, and knowledge or are willing to follow the manual; only problem is that if you eff up, it's all on you.
07-07-2011, 10:15 PM
#20
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How did your engine seize, broken con rod? You can save some money by reusing your case halves as long as they are salvageable but it may not be cost effective if you have someone else do the work.
I lost a ringland on one of my pistons at around 78K and decided to rebuild the motor myself. It helps lower the price a bit if you have the tools, time, and knowledge or are willing to follow the manual; only problem is that if you eff up, it's all on you.
I lost a ringland on one of my pistons at around 78K and decided to rebuild the motor myself. It helps lower the price a bit if you have the tools, time, and knowledge or are willing to follow the manual; only problem is that if you eff up, it's all on you.
07-11-2011, 09:44 AM
#21
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Wanted to get some input on my two current options:
1) Get a whole "new" motor from a salvage vehicle, which will have 90k+ on it already, no warranty of any kind on the motor
2) Buy a brand new '10 short block, rebuild the heads, intake, etc. from my old motor
Which option would you opt for. I have a hard time justifying a 5k+ cost for a motor which has more miles than the one that crapped out on me and has no kind of warranty associated with it. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
1) Get a whole "new" motor from a salvage vehicle, which will have 90k+ on it already, no warranty of any kind on the motor
2) Buy a brand new '10 short block, rebuild the heads, intake, etc. from my old motor
Which option would you opt for. I have a hard time justifying a 5k+ cost for a motor which has more miles than the one that crapped out on me and has no kind of warranty associated with it. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
07-11-2011, 01:15 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Santa Cruz, Ca
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Car Info: 07 STi, 02 F150-FX4, 04 ZX-636, 07 990 SuperDuke
Wanted to get some input on my two current options:
1) Get a whole "new" motor from a salvage vehicle, which will have 90k+ on it already, no warranty of any kind on the motor
2) Buy a brand new '10 short block, rebuild the heads, intake, etc. from my old motor
Which option would you opt for. I have a hard time justifying a 5k+ cost for a motor which has more miles than the one that crapped out on me and has no kind of warranty associated with it. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
1) Get a whole "new" motor from a salvage vehicle, which will have 90k+ on it already, no warranty of any kind on the motor
2) Buy a brand new '10 short block, rebuild the heads, intake, etc. from my old motor
Which option would you opt for. I have a hard time justifying a 5k+ cost for a motor which has more miles than the one that crapped out on me and has no kind of warranty associated with it. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
Option 2 will be better but it will cost you a pretty penny. I'll have to look through all my receipts to see how much mine cost to build up. You'll be looking at at least 5K (new short block, head work, accessories, belts, gaskets, pump, oil cooler, etc.)
07-12-2011, 05:04 PM
#23
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I'm getting quoted at around $6,500-$7,000 for a brand new shortblock, rebuilt heads, etc. At this point, is it even worth keeping the car? It's a 2005 STi, it is worth more than 7k but that's a lot of money to throw at this thing. Would you scrap the car at this point and just try to sell the vehicle w/o a motor?
07-12-2011, 05:09 PM
#24
I'm getting quoted at around $6,500-$7,000 for a brand new shortblock, rebuilt heads, etc. At this point, is it even worth keeping the car? It's a 2005 STi, it is worth more than 7k but that's a lot of money to throw at this thing. Would you scrap the car at this point and just try to sell the vehicle w/o a motor?
As for what I would do... I'd rebuild the motor because I LOVE my suby. If it's paid off and you have options then there are... options. LOL.
1. Fix it
2. Get it up here. Fix it for less and have local shop support.
3. Get it up here and sell it as is.
4. Get it up here and part it out. Time consuming but probably the most profitable.
Either way... I'd do what you can to get it back up here. Borrow a flat bed and go get it if you have to.
07-12-2011, 05:13 PM
#25
Wanted to get some input on my two current options:
1) Get a whole "new" motor from a salvage vehicle, which will have 90k+ on it already, no warranty of any kind on the motor
2) Buy a brand new '10 short block, rebuild the heads, intake, etc. from my old motor
Which option would you opt for. I have a hard time justifying a 5k+ cost for a motor which has more miles than the one that crapped out on me and has no kind of warranty associated with it. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
1) Get a whole "new" motor from a salvage vehicle, which will have 90k+ on it already, no warranty of any kind on the motor
2) Buy a brand new '10 short block, rebuild the heads, intake, etc. from my old motor
Which option would you opt for. I have a hard time justifying a 5k+ cost for a motor which has more miles than the one that crapped out on me and has no kind of warranty associated with it. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
You can get a fully built block for what they're trying to charge you. I'd get the car back here.... seriously. Have the motor rebuilt and the heads looked at. Might not even need to be gone through. Might be able to do it for $2k less than what they're charging. Unless you punched a hole in your block I don't see why you'd need to scrap it.
As for the other motor... unless it's temporary and you're sticking your current motor in the trunk and bring it home with you AND it's super cheap, I wouldn't do it. Just throwing money away and giving away your old long block.
07-12-2011, 05:16 PM
#26
You'd be crazy to not trust Paul to do your work. He's the only mechanic Subaru trusted with the 22B when it was in the area, not to mention he has a very deep and high-level rally background as a mechanic.
He's worked closely with Subaru for many, many years. Remember the Forester Sports concept in 2005? Built in his shop. I'd say he knows what he is doing.
He's worked closely with Subaru for many, many years. Remember the Forester Sports concept in 2005? Built in his shop. I'd say he knows what he is doing.
I'd have Paul (DB Tuned or Mike) do up a fully built motor with some goodies for less and have local support. (if he's moving back up here)
07-12-2011, 05:22 PM
#27
I found several different shops here and on nasioc that will do built blocks for a lot less with warranties.
This was quoted from just one of them
ML500 2.5L
This is our entry-level block but certainly up for the task of holding big power. Light years better than a standard Subaru short-block but lacks some of the finer details of the ML500+ line. This is a great choice for those looking to have a stout daily driver but with the ability to turn the wick up when needed.
Recommended Power: 400-500WHP, RPM: 7200
New Factory Block
New Factory Nitrided Crank
New Factory Bearings
New Factory I-Beam Rods
Forged Pistons
- 4032 forging offers quiet operation with strength
- Chromoly Wrist Pins
- Anti-friction skirt coating
- Off-set wrist pin
$2989
Hell... buy your stuff up here. I'll drive it down for you.
This was quoted from just one of them
ML500 2.5L
This is our entry-level block but certainly up for the task of holding big power. Light years better than a standard Subaru short-block but lacks some of the finer details of the ML500+ line. This is a great choice for those looking to have a stout daily driver but with the ability to turn the wick up when needed.
Recommended Power: 400-500WHP, RPM: 7200
New Factory Block
New Factory Nitrided Crank
New Factory Bearings
New Factory I-Beam Rods
Forged Pistons
- 4032 forging offers quiet operation with strength
- Chromoly Wrist Pins
- Anti-friction skirt coating
- Off-set wrist pin
$2989
Hell... buy your stuff up here. I'll drive it down for you.
07-12-2011, 05:24 PM
#28
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Yeah but if he's charging $6500 PLUS labor it sounds to me like he knows he's got the dude over a barrel. You're talking $8000 for a stock motor. No way in hell would I pay that price. NO WAY. And why the 2010 motor? Then you add in the new clutch with flywheel resurface and you're at $9000. Crazy.
I'd have Paul (DB Tuned or Mike) do up a fully built motor with some goodies for less and have local support. (if he's moving back up here)
I'd have Paul (DB Tuned or Mike) do up a fully built motor with some goodies for less and have local support. (if he's moving back up here)
Last edited by bsbretly; 07-12-2011 at 05:27 PM.
07-12-2011, 05:31 PM
#29
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I found several different shops here and on nasioc that will do built blocks for a lot less with warranties.
This was quoted from just one of them
ML500 2.5L
This is our entry-level block but certainly up for the task of holding big power. Light years better than a standard Subaru short-block but lacks some of the finer details of the ML500+ line. This is a great choice for those looking to have a stout daily driver but with the ability to turn the wick up when needed.
Recommended Power: 400-500WHP, RPM: 7200
New Factory Block
New Factory Nitrided Crank
New Factory Bearings
New Factory I-Beam Rods
Forged Pistons
- 4032 forging offers quiet operation with strength
- Chromoly Wrist Pins
- Anti-friction skirt coating
- Off-set wrist pin
$2989
Hell... buy your stuff up here. I'll drive it down for you.
This was quoted from just one of them
ML500 2.5L
This is our entry-level block but certainly up for the task of holding big power. Light years better than a standard Subaru short-block but lacks some of the finer details of the ML500+ line. This is a great choice for those looking to have a stout daily driver but with the ability to turn the wick up when needed.
Recommended Power: 400-500WHP, RPM: 7200
New Factory Block
New Factory Nitrided Crank
New Factory Bearings
New Factory I-Beam Rods
Forged Pistons
- 4032 forging offers quiet operation with strength
- Chromoly Wrist Pins
- Anti-friction skirt coating
- Off-set wrist pin
$2989
Hell... buy your stuff up here. I'll drive it down for you.
07-12-2011, 05:33 PM
#30
did you call apollo performance? sounds like you are definitely getting raped on prices. rebuild your current and replace what's broken, don't get tempted into all the possible upgrades. they are a honest and fair shop, plus they're in first place for street awd and fwd in time attack right now.
http://maps.google.com/maps/place?q=...85322607190104
http://maps.google.com/maps/place?q=...85322607190104