Proven way to stop theives
05-12-2005, 02:15 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 1,413
Car Info: Twin WRX Turbo VR-4
Get one of those top quality alarms with the ignition kill switch, and i've seen some that had a guarantee that if your car is stolen they will reimburse you $5000 or so.
05-12-2005, 02:24 PM
#32
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 793
Car Info: '09 accord, '14 2 seater chevy
The alarm install I did in my accord worked pretty well, but total install time was probably 40 hours, on top of about $1000 in components. It was still possible to steal, but not without being VERY painful.
Viper 791xv brain with NiMH backup battery as far under the dash as possible, I took the entire dash out to do the alarm install. I split many of the stock wire bundles and used OEM color coded wires(I actually took every wire out of the alarm harness connector and replaced it with my own color) with the colors not making any sense at all without my decoder sheet. The brain, main relay pack, and it's battery were in a plastic box that kind of looked like something OEM and of course I used split loom and taped it to look just like it belonged there since it looked like it connected to the main wire harness.
4 118db pain inducer sirens, each pair had it's own NiMH backup battery. one under each side of the dash, and one under each seat. It was nauseating to be in the car when they were going off.
2 exterior self powered sirens, one in front, one in back. I also had horn honk hooked up with my hella supertones, and hella triple air horn set that was hidden under the air dam… LOUD. I also had the first tone clipped from one of the sirens so it sounded like two cars had been set off after eachother.
Whelen 90w 6 head strobe controller with it's own backup battery.One strobe bulb in each corner outside, one in the dome light, one under the drivers side of the dash in it's own enclosure. These were real police strobes, not the toy R-boy ones. http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/70/2046.htm?949 is where I got them.
2 Glass breakage sensors, one at the front window, one below the back. This made it so I could turn the gain down to prevent falsings, but still had even coverage.
2 stinger shock sensors, one front one back, again so I could turn the gain down to prevent falsings.
4 resonance sensors right behind the door handles. If someone tampers with the doors by way of lifting the handle or trying to stick in a slim jim it sets the alarm off.
1 Gyro tilt/motion sensor set for 1° of change, if you try to jack the car it goes off.
1 two stage proximity sensor disassembled and put behind the dome light. Looking down into the car prevented it from falsing when someone walked by or rain, but the inner zone was set for 1" inside the windows and was very accurate.
A pair of DEI 530T window modules for the windows, and a 529T for the sunroof to close the windows when armed, or open/vent them if I felt like it.
1 DEI channel expander(had too much crap going on)
The car came stock with an immoblizer, so I just added one extra safety precaution and added a pair of relays in parallel(in case one fails you don't want the car to die going down the road) to the fuel pump and used a hot when disarmed wire from the alarm to close the relays, even if you found the brain and disabled it, then disabled the immobilizer, you still couldn't start the car.
That along with passive arming, priority unlock, and a few other goodies made for a pretty solid alarm.
I had two break in attempts with the car. Once I came outside to find a slimjim in the window and the door wide open with a nice bag of tools left on the ground, I added the resonance sensors after this. The second one about a year later I came outside and there was a wooden wedge in the window, so he was going to try to use a slim jim as well. I suspect two separate thieves, and the fact I had no repeat offenses showed they learned their lesson, at least with my car.
I kept a wire map and uninstalled it when I sold the car. I have two 2'^3 boxes full of wire and crap from the removal lol.
I did professional high end alarm and stereo installs for a living back in the day, and was an MECP master installer. I also take pride in my work not like the typical jackass good guys slap the brain on the steering column and use t-taps everywhere installer, but not a single car has been stolen or even seriously vandalized after I’ve put an alarm in, although sad to say most people aren’t interested in spending that much dough to have it one right, they can put $10K worth of bling bling TV monitors and useless crap in, but $2k for a decent alarm install is too much.
The rex will be getting it’s alarm treatment this summer if I have time after fiberglassing my trunk enclosure.
Viper 791xv brain with NiMH backup battery as far under the dash as possible, I took the entire dash out to do the alarm install. I split many of the stock wire bundles and used OEM color coded wires(I actually took every wire out of the alarm harness connector and replaced it with my own color) with the colors not making any sense at all without my decoder sheet. The brain, main relay pack, and it's battery were in a plastic box that kind of looked like something OEM and of course I used split loom and taped it to look just like it belonged there since it looked like it connected to the main wire harness.
4 118db pain inducer sirens, each pair had it's own NiMH backup battery. one under each side of the dash, and one under each seat. It was nauseating to be in the car when they were going off.
2 exterior self powered sirens, one in front, one in back. I also had horn honk hooked up with my hella supertones, and hella triple air horn set that was hidden under the air dam… LOUD. I also had the first tone clipped from one of the sirens so it sounded like two cars had been set off after eachother.
Whelen 90w 6 head strobe controller with it's own backup battery.One strobe bulb in each corner outside, one in the dome light, one under the drivers side of the dash in it's own enclosure. These were real police strobes, not the toy R-boy ones. http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/70/2046.htm?949 is where I got them.
2 Glass breakage sensors, one at the front window, one below the back. This made it so I could turn the gain down to prevent falsings, but still had even coverage.
2 stinger shock sensors, one front one back, again so I could turn the gain down to prevent falsings.
4 resonance sensors right behind the door handles. If someone tampers with the doors by way of lifting the handle or trying to stick in a slim jim it sets the alarm off.
1 Gyro tilt/motion sensor set for 1° of change, if you try to jack the car it goes off.
1 two stage proximity sensor disassembled and put behind the dome light. Looking down into the car prevented it from falsing when someone walked by or rain, but the inner zone was set for 1" inside the windows and was very accurate.
A pair of DEI 530T window modules for the windows, and a 529T for the sunroof to close the windows when armed, or open/vent them if I felt like it.
1 DEI channel expander(had too much crap going on)
The car came stock with an immoblizer, so I just added one extra safety precaution and added a pair of relays in parallel(in case one fails you don't want the car to die going down the road) to the fuel pump and used a hot when disarmed wire from the alarm to close the relays, even if you found the brain and disabled it, then disabled the immobilizer, you still couldn't start the car.
That along with passive arming, priority unlock, and a few other goodies made for a pretty solid alarm.
I had two break in attempts with the car. Once I came outside to find a slimjim in the window and the door wide open with a nice bag of tools left on the ground, I added the resonance sensors after this. The second one about a year later I came outside and there was a wooden wedge in the window, so he was going to try to use a slim jim as well. I suspect two separate thieves, and the fact I had no repeat offenses showed they learned their lesson, at least with my car.
I kept a wire map and uninstalled it when I sold the car. I have two 2'^3 boxes full of wire and crap from the removal lol.
I did professional high end alarm and stereo installs for a living back in the day, and was an MECP master installer. I also take pride in my work not like the typical jackass good guys slap the brain on the steering column and use t-taps everywhere installer, but not a single car has been stolen or even seriously vandalized after I’ve put an alarm in, although sad to say most people aren’t interested in spending that much dough to have it one right, they can put $10K worth of bling bling TV monitors and useless crap in, but $2k for a decent alarm install is too much.
The rex will be getting it’s alarm treatment this summer if I have time after fiberglassing my trunk enclosure.
Last edited by illusion; 05-12-2005 at 02:36 PM.
05-12-2005, 03:30 PM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: 818 y0!
Posts: 75
Car Info: '05 CGM WRX Wagon
Originally Posted by illusion
I had two break in attempts with the car. Once I came outside to find a slimjim in the window and the door wide open with a nice bag of tools left on the ground, I added the resonance sensors after this. The second one about a year later I came outside and there was a wooden wedge in the window, so he was going to try to use a slim jim as well. I suspect two separate thieves, and the fact I had no repeat offenses showed they learned their lesson, at least with my car.
05-12-2005, 03:38 PM
#34
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 793
Car Info: '09 accord, '14 2 seater chevy
Originally Posted by dantastic
i think i remember this story from H-A.net or h-t... i used to drive an accord too, then moved to a civic. now i have a scooby too
That was probably me. I frequented a crapload of honda boards, and I'm still a moderator on two of them. She got squished and I went straight for the wagon
this beast
from that to this(not a bad move to me, although I do miss the comfort sometimes)
05-12-2005, 04:28 PM
#35
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Under a car
Posts: 1,440
Car Info: some silver thing
Originally Posted by OneManArmy
how can you adjust that?
under the center console, by the ebrake there should be a box with a piece of tape on it, if you take the tape off you should see an adjustment ****, if I remember correctly, CCW for less sensitive, and CW for more....
05-12-2005, 04:53 PM
#36
Underpants Gnome
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Cambridge, England
Posts: 591
Car Info: 1.4 Ford Fiesta
Originally Posted by AzN121184
It's a sensitivity sensor, not a proximity sensor. Why would you dislike it?
Btw, my car's sensor, although turned up ALL the way, doesn't get set off by loud music or loud exhausts.
Btw, my car's sensor, although turned up ALL the way, doesn't get set off by loud music or loud exhausts.
. I just hate all those alarms at SJSU that are set off by my stock exhaust stock stereo car!
05-12-2005, 04:54 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: _
Posts: 369
Car Info: _
Originally Posted by psoper
Having my car stolen would be about the best thing that could happen to me.
Seriously, trade in value on a "Fair" '02 WRX wagon with 151,000 miles is only 6000, to pay it off I still need to come up with 11,500,
so- take my car,
(please!)
Seriously, trade in value on a "Fair" '02 WRX wagon with 151,000 miles is only 6000, to pay it off I still need to come up with 11,500,
so- take my car,
(please!)
05-12-2005, 05:00 PM
#38
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 793
Car Info: '09 accord, '14 2 seater chevy
Originally Posted by porkchop
under the center console, by the ebrake there should be a box with a piece of tape on it, if you take the tape off you should see an adjustment ****, if I remember correctly, CCW for less sensitive, and CW for more....
For 05 it's behind the glove box. I've seen under the e-brake on an 02 and 03, so I'm not sure if 04 is there or behind the glove box.
05-12-2005, 06:53 PM
#39
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: San Jose/ San Leandro
Posts: 3,300
Car Info: SGM 135i
Originally Posted by illusion
That was probably me. I frequented a crapload of honda boards, and I'm still a moderator on two of them. She got squished and I went straight for the wagon
this beast
from that to this(not a bad move to me, although I do miss the comfort sometimes)
this beast
from that to this(not a bad move to me, although I do miss the comfort sometimes)
05-13-2005, 12:08 AM
#41
alarm sensitivity
hey how do you turn up the sensitivity of the alarm, i remove the ebrake console and i dont see any *** that you can turn it up. thanks for you help.
Originally Posted by AzN121184
park in a well lit area if you are parking in a area you aren't familar with.
Hide faceplates, gps units, laptops, lock glove box and trunk.
Oh yea, if you have the stock alarm, just turn up sensitivity all the way. That's what i do.
Hide faceplates, gps units, laptops, lock glove box and trunk.
Oh yea, if you have the stock alarm, just turn up sensitivity all the way. That's what i do.
05-13-2005, 06:59 AM
#42
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Subabrew Crew
Posts: 7,570
Car Info: Broken Subarus
These guys have a pretty good track record.
http://www.ravelco.com/
http://www.ravelco.com/
05-13-2005, 09:08 AM
#43
You know pete, you can just park your car in the 'shady' area and it'll be gone the next morning.
Originally Posted by psoper
Having my car stolen would be about the best thing that could happen to me.
Seriously, trade in value on a "Fair" '02 WRX wagon with 151,000 miles is only 6000, to pay it off I still need to come up with 11,500,
so- take my car,
(please!)
Seriously, trade in value on a "Fair" '02 WRX wagon with 151,000 miles is only 6000, to pay it off I still need to come up with 11,500,
so- take my car,
(please!)
05-13-2005, 09:33 AM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: 818 y0!
Posts: 75
Car Info: '05 CGM WRX Wagon
Originally Posted by lin_tp2
hey how do you turn up the sensitivity of the alarm, i remove the ebrake console and i dont see any *** that you can turn it up. thanks for you help.
F. Shock Sensor Adjustment-ONLY IF REQUIRED
- The factory has preset the sensitivity of the shock sensor at the time of manufacture. Under normal circumstances the sensitivity should not require any adjustment and should be left untouched. However, in the unlikely event that adjustment is required, please follow the steps outlined below.
1. Carefully remove the seal covering the shock sensor adjustment hole on the top of the security control module.
2. Using a #0 flat-tip screwdriver, CAREFULLY AND GENTLY adjust the sensitivity.
CW (clockwise) – INCREASES sensitivity
CCW (counterclockwise) – DECREASES sensitivity
3. With each adjustment of the control, repeat section F. Shock Sensor Test, to determine if the desired sensitivity has been reached.
CAUTION:
DO NOT make the sensitivity of the unit overly sensitive. Too high a sensitivity setting will result in false alarms and provides no relative increase in the overall measure of security.
4. Upon completion of the sensitivity adjustment, place a small piece of electrical tape over the sensitivity adjustment hole to prevent dust and/or other foreign material from entering the unit.
05-13-2005, 12:00 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by lin_tp2
hey how do you turn up the sensitivity of the alarm, i remove the ebrake console and i dont see any *** that you can turn it up. thanks for you help.