OT: how to disconnect a condensing unit?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-14-2004, 09:19 AM
  #1  
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
DetailAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 6,912
Car Info: Evo X
OT: how to disconnect a condensing unit?

I know this is OT, but I know A LOT people read this forum.

okay, I live on a second floor condo unit and the HOA is going to do some work on the balcony, which requires me to move the condensing unit (AC). I called and got a quote for $300. I am not going to have someone cut a few lines and reconnect them later for $300. That is just crazy! So I searched a little online but couldn't find much. And I went to Home Depot and they don't know jack. So here I am, hoping you guys could help me out with this. So thanks in advance!

Questions:
1. What tool(s) do I need to cut the freon lines (in/out)?
2. What tool(s) do I need to connect them back up?
3. Where can I dump the freon?
4. Where do I get new freon?
5. How do I fill up the lines?
6. What would happen if I leave the lines empty for a while?
7. What does it mean when people say 'you need to recharge your AC unit'?

Anything else I should know please let me know. Thanks!

Leo
DetailAddict is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 11:57 AM
  #2  
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
DetailAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 6,912
Car Info: Evo X
anyone?
DetailAddict is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 03:06 PM
  #3  
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
DetailAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 6,912
Car Info: Evo X
so no one?
DetailAddict is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 03:09 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
FUNKED1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,152
Pay the guy, trust me. I'm an HVAC engineer and I don't even know how to do all that stuff.

Last edited by FUNKED1; 07-14-2004 at 03:12 PM.
FUNKED1 is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 03:21 PM
  #5  
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
DetailAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 6,912
Car Info: Evo X
Yeah, I thought about it. But I might not connect it back because the central AC unit is not very energy efficient for me. Most of the time we are in the living room or the bedroom at any given time, and to have the entire house cool with AC is not really necessary.

For $300, I might just well cut the damn lines, throw the darn thing away (it's old anyway) and buy a smaller more efficient unit. That's why I am hesitating on paying the damn guy.

It can't be that hard, at least the disconnect part. I can deal with the power cables easily. It's the freon lines I have questions on.
DetailAddict is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 03:27 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
RoadSpike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hunted Forest
Posts: 720
Car Info: Mazda Protege '02 (Wishing protege has AWD and a H6 twin turbo)
Originally Posted by FUNKED1
Pay the guy, trust me. I'm an HVAC engineer and I don't even know how to do all that stuff.
I am an installer and i can tell you that you will not have the proper tools.

First off what you will end up doing if replacing the freon lines all together. If you try moving old lines with all the oil and heat degradation it will more than likely just kink and cause problems.

You will need a special type of rachet or alan wrench to close the lines at the compressor. Then you would have to evacuate the lines (dumping freon is illegal where i live course you dont get caught its another thing)

Using a torch oxy/acel. or acel with air you desweat the lines off

D/C the electrical and do the whole thing back up again.

Recharge a unit means to put more freon into the system. Generally thats a sign of a leak. It shouldn't leak at all 20 year old systems don't leak and yours shouldn't.

Special notes:
Freon can be bought at a local contractor store 30lb jug for about 90-100 dollars thats r-22 for most household units today
Gauages will be more
Torch will be about 200 for a decent kit to cut and a bit of silver solder

You can not use lead solder on this it will blow right off at 150psi
I'd be happy to walk you through it provided you had the equipment to decharge and charge and all the rest but i doubt it.

And perfectly honestly 300 dollars to connect and charge a system is NOTHING! I'd charge you alot more *laughs*
RoadSpike is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 03:28 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
RoadSpike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hunted Forest
Posts: 720
Car Info: Mazda Protege '02 (Wishing protege has AWD and a H6 twin turbo)
any more questions? aim me
RoadSpike is offline  
Old 07-14-2004, 04:09 PM
  #8  
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
DetailAddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 6,912
Car Info: Evo X
damn! I just think it sucks that I have to pay $300 and nothing will change after. I am just disconnecting a perfectly good AC and reconnecting it. Alright, let me know think about this.

RoadSpike, thanks for the info, I'll AIM you if I have more questions.

Leo
DetailAddict is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
silverwrx1
Interior, Exterior & Lighting
3
07-08-2003 11:02 PM
RussB
Suspension, Handling, and Brakes
3
05-21-2003 10:11 PM
edkwon
Stereo & Security
6
05-20-2003 09:57 AM
edkwon
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
4
05-08-2003 06:06 AM
gldenchld
Interior, Exterior & Lighting
11
01-16-2003 08:26 PM



Quick Reply: OT: how to disconnect a condensing unit?



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:25 PM.