Next Mods for Aging 2003 WRX
10-19-2009, 01:20 PM
#16
Ranking in the order of what I liked best:
Prodrive springs/AGX struts
sedan rear sway bar
whiteline steering rack bushings
group N motor and tranny mount
Kartboy f/r endlinks
rear strut bar
fender braces
The ranking on some of these may change depending on if the order of install were different.
Prodrive springs/AGX struts
sedan rear sway bar
whiteline steering rack bushings
group N motor and tranny mount
Kartboy f/r endlinks
rear strut bar
fender braces
The ranking on some of these may change depending on if the order of install were different.
10-19-2009, 01:22 PM
#17
Just hit me up via PM during the week before a weekend that you in SC. Curious are you friends with someone named Tiny?
10-19-2009, 01:26 PM
#18
If you mean "used to work at BR and lived in East Palo Alto, and now goes to SJSU and lives in SC" Tiny, then yes.
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Last edited by kyoung05; 03-30-2011 at 10:43 AM.
10-19-2009, 01:28 PM
#19
aka FlukeWRX
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Bay
Posts: 3,657
Car Info: '03 WRX WRB Sedan
Hey, thanks for the link to the seats. That looks very interesting - about $350/pair for a no frills basic seat. Any idea whether these require special brackets, etc.?
As for the bushings/mounts, do you happen to have a "list" of the bushings that would require replacing? Do I just replace them with new stock OEM ones or are there aftermarket ones you'd recommend? Same with the rear subframe bolts - just replace them with stock ones? Thanks again.
As for tires, I was running Pirelli P-Zero Neros before, and am currently running Dunlop RE760's. Both are leaps and bounds better than the stock RE-92's.
As for the bushings/mounts, do you happen to have a "list" of the bushings that would require replacing? Do I just replace them with new stock OEM ones or are there aftermarket ones you'd recommend? Same with the rear subframe bolts - just replace them with stock ones? Thanks again.
As for tires, I was running Pirelli P-Zero Neros before, and am currently running Dunlop RE760's. Both are leaps and bounds better than the stock RE-92's.
As for the bushings this should probably keep you busy for a while.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920405
Personally, I try to run Whiteline wherever I can. Then STI Group N products for the mounts will be my next upgrades (I already have the pitch stop, but want to upgrade the transmission and engine mounts).
For the Rear Subframe Bolts actually your car doesn't come with these from the factory. When you are underneath the car and go to install these you will see what I mean. The rear subframe has 2 bolts that hold the subframe in place on both sides of the rear (4 rear bolts total). There is a center section that does not have a bolt in place on both sides. The Subframe bolts (either Whiteline of the Kartboy Botox Bolts or whatever other manufacturer makes these) are actually installing additional bolts in place in the center section where the bolts are not installed.
http://www.turninconcepts.com/produc...roducts_id=141 - Karboy Botox Bolts
http://www.gstmotorsports.com/store/...roducts_id=582 - Whiteline Diff Lock Bolts
These seem to be the best places I have come across for the Group N parts:
http://www.rallispec.com/prod_mount.htm
http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/
Also Kartboy makes excellent products.
So pick whichever products you like and go with what you think will fit your goals.
(BTW I just provided examples, they may or may not be the cheapest locations to get each of the parts listed above).
Oh and another item that can help with the "sloppy" or "loose" feeling are the Kartboy shifter bushings.
http://www.turninconcepts.com/produc...products_id=34
Also if you are thinking of Fender Braces, I just purchase the Fender Braces off of eBay (search for BigJap I believe is the name of the company).
Hope this helps.
10-19-2009, 02:36 PM
#20
Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 538
Car Info: 2002 WRX- MBP
upgrades....
i just insalled some whiteline steering rack bushings...... and a Perrin ALK kit.... Man the steering is way nice... but i wish i bought the optional spfter bushings. also installed the shifter bushings.... shifting feels so much more possitive... lot less play.
10-19-2009, 02:58 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ur mom
Posts: 978
Car Info: ugly piece of ****
Def a great mod! I would love to get one for my STi! The STi already has a good ratio but I love really tight steering racks!
Which kind do you have? How much did you pay for it? Who installed it? If you installed it, was it simple to do? Or does it require a lot of work/tools?
What's your overall view on the one you got? I'm super interested in hearing what you have to say!
Which kind do you have? How much did you pay for it? Who installed it? If you installed it, was it simple to do? Or does it require a lot of work/tools?
What's your overall view on the one you got? I'm super interested in hearing what you have to say!
We swapped the engine so we affixed it to the crossmember before going in. It wasnt that hard. There are 6 or eight bolts supporting it, then teh tie rods, then a few more bolts and IIRC, it drops out. Oh, you have to disconnect the PS lines which was a HUGE pain in the *** with it in the car.
10-19-2009, 03:05 PM
#22
Ok, so from the above comments, I think I'll start by replacing the Steering Rack bushings and installing the Subframe Rear Diff Support Lock bolts - looks like I can get both for about $70, and installing my 04+ rear sway bar mounts. I'll probably end up getting a 22mm+ rear sway bar + end links at a later date, along with maybe some motor/tranny mounts. I'm still very interested in a new seat, however.
As for the steering rack bushings, any difference between the Whiteline ones and the SuperPro ones? How about for the subframe bolts - any difference between the Whiteline or Kartboy? It seems like the subframe bolts are pretty easy to install, i.e. just insert and tighten, right? How about the steering rack bushings? Is installation difficult? To be honest, I don't even know where these go, let alone how to uninstall/install them.
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As for the steering rack bushings, any difference between the Whiteline ones and the SuperPro ones? How about for the subframe bolts - any difference between the Whiteline or Kartboy? It seems like the subframe bolts are pretty easy to install, i.e. just insert and tighten, right? How about the steering rack bushings? Is installation difficult? To be honest, I don't even know where these go, let alone how to uninstall/install them.
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Last edited by kyoung05; 03-30-2011 at 10:43 AM.
10-19-2009, 04:30 PM
#23
aka FlukeWRX
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Bay
Posts: 3,657
Car Info: '03 WRX WRB Sedan
There probably isn't much difference between the bolt manufacturers. I just always prefer the Whiteline stuff as I have never had a problem with their stuff.
http://www.wrxfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=5710 - Steering Rack Bushings Install
There may be different instructions. It is MUCH easier to do if you can get the car on a lift. You will see them towards the front of the car when the car is in the air. The rear subframe bolts will be pretty easy to spot once the car is up in the air as well. I was looking for a set of install instructions and didn't find any at the moment for those. Hopefully someone can help you out with finding the instructions for those ones.
http://www.wrxfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=5710 - Steering Rack Bushings Install
There may be different instructions. It is MUCH easier to do if you can get the car on a lift. You will see them towards the front of the car when the car is in the air. The rear subframe bolts will be pretty easy to spot once the car is up in the air as well. I was looking for a set of install instructions and didn't find any at the moment for those. Hopefully someone can help you out with finding the instructions for those ones.
10-19-2009, 04:55 PM
#24
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Car Info: 03 Bugeye, D675, Lightning
When you buy a seat you're trusting a company with your wife because a seat is a HUGE safety feature and you get what you pay for. When getting a seat I would make sure it was a reputable name brand and FIA certified at least! You don't want to get in an accident and die because your seat failed to hold you in properly.
The seats that are in that link are cheap knock off seats, they don't say anything about being certified or have any safety features listed, I would NOT trust them. Replicas can be bad, REALLY bad, and most of the time replicas are bad. You can afford to get a replica fog light cover because it's not a big deal and has no real impact on anything, but getting a knock off seat is like getting a knock off seatbelt.
10-19-2009, 05:03 PM
#25
seats are a great upgrade but seats over all the other things a car with 130k on them could use? Couldn't disagree more. Especially for a person that is running stock suspension.
At that age you have a lot of aged bushings and things like that. Engine mounts, Tranny mounts, etc. I think replacing a lot of these mounts and bushing would be a good thing to do. with stock suspension the sedan bar is a great upgrade.
If you were to get a better struts spring set up I'd recommend upgrading the front and rear sway bars as well.
Hell looking at what you have and what not I'd spend money on a new strut and spring combo. What you were running before was not the best option. You had a super stiff spring... a super stiff lowering spring on stock struts. That creates an oversprung set up and a crappy ride. 3 years of driving like that plus all the other miles on your stock struts I'd bet even money that they are blown. They were probably blown a long time before you swapped your stock springs back on.
I'd cut those housings open and stick the koni struts in there and pick up a decent wagon spring. Swift. Pink wagon springs. etc. Something not overly gnarly and doesn't lower you a ton. I think that will make the biggest difference to the enjoyability of your car... hands down.
My car has over 150k on it and I used to commute a TON. Some days over 100 miles each way. A properly balanced set up is not to bad on the daily and will make a huge difference in your enjoyment. What's the point of extra power when you can't really drive it.
So in order in my opinion...
Struts/Springs
Bushings/Mounts. Steering and shifter coming first.
Sway bars, mounts, endlinks.
That's thinking that you've already done your wheels and tires.
after that...
rotors, pads, lines, fluid
seats are nice but can come along later. the bugeye seats are actually pretty nice and if you're not a huge guy they're probably still fine. And if they're blown out you can probably find a decent set of replacements for $200.
upgraded steering racks are nice but if you're running stock suspension, what's the point.
I'd be happy to let you take my car for a spin as well.
At that age you have a lot of aged bushings and things like that. Engine mounts, Tranny mounts, etc. I think replacing a lot of these mounts and bushing would be a good thing to do. with stock suspension the sedan bar is a great upgrade.
If you were to get a better struts spring set up I'd recommend upgrading the front and rear sway bars as well.
Hell looking at what you have and what not I'd spend money on a new strut and spring combo. What you were running before was not the best option. You had a super stiff spring... a super stiff lowering spring on stock struts. That creates an oversprung set up and a crappy ride. 3 years of driving like that plus all the other miles on your stock struts I'd bet even money that they are blown. They were probably blown a long time before you swapped your stock springs back on.
I'd cut those housings open and stick the koni struts in there and pick up a decent wagon spring. Swift. Pink wagon springs. etc. Something not overly gnarly and doesn't lower you a ton. I think that will make the biggest difference to the enjoyability of your car... hands down.
My car has over 150k on it and I used to commute a TON. Some days over 100 miles each way. A properly balanced set up is not to bad on the daily and will make a huge difference in your enjoyment. What's the point of extra power when you can't really drive it.
So in order in my opinion...
Struts/Springs
Bushings/Mounts. Steering and shifter coming first.
Sway bars, mounts, endlinks.
That's thinking that you've already done your wheels and tires.
after that...
rotors, pads, lines, fluid
seats are nice but can come along later. the bugeye seats are actually pretty nice and if you're not a huge guy they're probably still fine. And if they're blown out you can probably find a decent set of replacements for $200.
upgraded steering racks are nice but if you're running stock suspension, what's the point.
I'd be happy to let you take my car for a spin as well.
10-19-2009, 05:26 PM
#26
seats are a great upgrade but seats over all the other things a car with 130k on them could use? Couldn't disagree more. Especially for a person that is running stock suspension.
At that age you have a lot of aged bushings and things like that. Engine mounts, Tranny mounts, etc. I think replacing a lot of these mounts and bushing would be a good thing to do. with stock suspension the sedan bar is a great upgrade.
If you were to get a better struts spring set up I'd recommend upgrading the front and rear sway bars as well.
Hell looking at what you have and what not I'd spend money on a new strut and spring combo. What you were running before was not the best option. You had a super stiff spring... a super stiff lowering spring on stock struts. That creates an oversprung set up and a crappy ride. 3 years of driving like that plus all the other miles on your stock struts I'd bet even money that they are blown. They were probably blown a long time before you swapped your stock springs back on.
I'd cut those housings open and stick the koni struts in there and pick up a decent wagon spring. Swift. Pink wagon springs. etc. Something not overly gnarly and doesn't lower you a ton. I think that will make the biggest difference to the enjoyability of your car... hands down.
My car has over 150k on it and I used to commute a TON. Some days over 100 miles each way. A properly balanced set up is not to bad on the daily and will make a huge difference in your enjoyment. What's the point of extra power when you can't really drive it.
So in order in my opinion...
Struts/Springs
Bushings/Mounts. Steering and shifter coming first.
Sway bars, mounts, endlinks.
That's thinking that you've already done your wheels and tires.
after that...
rotors, pads, lines, fluid
seats are nice but can come along later. the bugeye seats are actually pretty nice and if you're not a huge guy they're probably still fine. And if they're blown out you can probably find a decent set of replacements for $200.
upgraded steering racks are nice but if you're running stock suspension, what's the point.
I'd be happy to let you take my car for a spin as well.
At that age you have a lot of aged bushings and things like that. Engine mounts, Tranny mounts, etc. I think replacing a lot of these mounts and bushing would be a good thing to do. with stock suspension the sedan bar is a great upgrade.
If you were to get a better struts spring set up I'd recommend upgrading the front and rear sway bars as well.
Hell looking at what you have and what not I'd spend money on a new strut and spring combo. What you were running before was not the best option. You had a super stiff spring... a super stiff lowering spring on stock struts. That creates an oversprung set up and a crappy ride. 3 years of driving like that plus all the other miles on your stock struts I'd bet even money that they are blown. They were probably blown a long time before you swapped your stock springs back on.
I'd cut those housings open and stick the koni struts in there and pick up a decent wagon spring. Swift. Pink wagon springs. etc. Something not overly gnarly and doesn't lower you a ton. I think that will make the biggest difference to the enjoyability of your car... hands down.
My car has over 150k on it and I used to commute a TON. Some days over 100 miles each way. A properly balanced set up is not to bad on the daily and will make a huge difference in your enjoyment. What's the point of extra power when you can't really drive it.
So in order in my opinion...
Struts/Springs
Bushings/Mounts. Steering and shifter coming first.
Sway bars, mounts, endlinks.
That's thinking that you've already done your wheels and tires.
after that...
rotors, pads, lines, fluid
seats are nice but can come along later. the bugeye seats are actually pretty nice and if you're not a huge guy they're probably still fine. And if they're blown out you can probably find a decent set of replacements for $200.
upgraded steering racks are nice but if you're running stock suspension, what's the point.
I'd be happy to let you take my car for a spin as well.
I do have upgraded tires - Dunlop RE760's, with plenty of life left on them. Previously, I was running Pirelli P-Zero Nero's which I liked a lot too - I don't ever see myself going back to stock tires.
As for brakes, I'm running some aftermarket blanks with Hawk ceramic pads, SS lines, sythetic brake fluid, etc. I was previously running slotted rotors and Axxis pads, but the dust was definitely getting to me. The ceramic pads definitely don't have the initial bite, which I miss, but for me, they're a fair compromise in terms of stopping power/dust.
I think the bushings/mounts are probably the next on my list. In fact, I'm probably going to be ordering the steering rack bushings, subframe lock bolts, and tranny mount in the next week or so. Maybe I'll do the shifter bushings before the tranny mount - we'll see.
After that, I'm thinking new rear sway bar/end links (torn about whether to do the front sway/end links at this point in time).
The torn seat is more of an eyesore than anything. Functionally, it still works fine - it holds me in, and it's comfy. Looking at the tear growing bigger and bigger though is driving me a little nuts, and having to get in and out gingerly so as not to further tear it is a pain. Oh well.
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Last edited by kyoung05; 03-30-2011 at 10:45 AM.
10-19-2009, 06:43 PM
#27
aka FlukeWRX
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Bay
Posts: 3,657
Car Info: '03 WRX WRB Sedan
When you buy a seat you're trusting a company with your wife because a seat is a HUGE safety feature and you get what you pay for. When getting a seat I would make sure it was a reputable name brand and FIA certified at least! You don't want to get in an accident and die because your seat failed to hold you in properly. I went through 4 different seats before I chose to stay with my current seat. The reason being is everyone is different, everyone prefers something for themselves and everyone's body is different so different designs fit different people. There are some shops in the bay area that have seats in their showrooms that you can try out, or come out to some local meets and sit in someone's car who has seats that you may want. Find which one fits you the best and get that one.
The seats that are in that link are cheap knock off seats, they don't say anything about being certified or have any safety features listed, I would NOT trust them. Replicas can be bad, REALLY bad, and most of the time replicas are bad. You can afford to get a replica fog light cover because it's not a big deal and has no real impact on anything, but getting a knock off seat is like getting a knock off seatbelt.
I did a lot of research on this topic before I got the seat I have right now, so trust me when I tell you that you get what you pay for (Well, to a point at least... some seats cost like 7k because they are made of a rare monkey's ball sack skin, lol), and your life depends on the kind of seat that you choose, so choose wisely.
The seats that are in that link are cheap knock off seats, they don't say anything about being certified or have any safety features listed, I would NOT trust them. Replicas can be bad, REALLY bad, and most of the time replicas are bad. You can afford to get a replica fog light cover because it's not a big deal and has no real impact on anything, but getting a knock off seat is like getting a knock off seatbelt.
I did a lot of research on this topic before I got the seat I have right now, so trust me when I tell you that you get what you pay for (Well, to a point at least... some seats cost like 7k because they are made of a rare monkey's ball sack skin, lol), and your life depends on the kind of seat that you choose, so choose wisely.
A seatbelt failing, sure makes sense. You have it on, you get in an accident and you rip right through it.
An airbag failing, makes sense. The car has a collision and either the airbag does not go off at all or goes off "late".
The seat rails and mounting points fail, yup I can understand this as well. The bottom of the seat breaks loose there by tossing you around in a collision. Hopefully your seatbelt and/or airbag prevent you from moving very far, but the seat is basically no longer connected to the car.
Your seat failing? What the internals come apart? A spring flies through the seat cushioning? Exactly how does a seat "fail"?
10-19-2009, 07:27 PM
#28
10-19-2009, 07:30 PM
#29
Last edited by kyoung05; 03-30-2011 at 10:45 AM.