Need input from electrical experts
#1
VIP Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 22,776
Car Info: '13 BRZ Limited / '02 WRX
Need input from electrical experts
I need to wire up this temperature controller with a power cord (heavy duty extension cord) going in, and the output to two regular houshold sockets that'll be mounted in a box. From what I understand the extension cord should have black, white and green wires inside, so what do I put where?
I'm assuming the black and white from the cord go into 4 and 5, but then where does the ground from that go? Also, I'm assuming 6, 7, 9, and 10 are the outputs for the outlets, with 8 and 11 being the grounds for those?
I'm assuming the black and white from the cord go into 4 and 5, but then where does the ground from that go? Also, I'm assuming 6, 7, 9, and 10 are the outputs for the outlets, with 8 and 11 being the grounds for those?
Last edited by VRT MBasile; 02-04-2010 at 11:39 AM.
#4
VIP Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 22,776
Car Info: '13 BRZ Limited / '02 WRX
I'm adding to the first post the overall layout of what I'm trying to accomplish, since I'm not good at describing stuff like this in words.
Last edited by VRT MBasile; 02-04-2010 at 11:36 AM.
#5
VIP Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Subabrew Crew
Posts: 7,570
Car Info: Broken Subarus
Without seeing the TB it's difficult to say what goes where. IN a not shell.
Blk=Hot
Wht=Neu
Grn=Ground
BLK must stay with BLK throughout the circuit. It must go through a load before returning on the NEU.
The Ground is a non-current carrying conductor. It is used to bond each component within the system, this is called equalized potential. A fault will always take the path of least resistance to ground. By bonding the entire circuit you equalize potential and give a fault a straight shot to ground. Hard short breaker trips. Got it?
Blk=Hot
Wht=Neu
Grn=Ground
BLK must stay with BLK throughout the circuit. It must go through a load before returning on the NEU.
The Ground is a non-current carrying conductor. It is used to bond each component within the system, this is called equalized potential. A fault will always take the path of least resistance to ground. By bonding the entire circuit you equalize potential and give a fault a straight shot to ground. Hard short breaker trips. Got it?
#6
VIP Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Subabrew Crew
Posts: 7,570
Car Info: Broken Subarus
BY the looks of it, you going to be hard pressed fitting an extension cord into that TB. Typically we would run a controller like this off a low voltage 12vdc power, the outputs would then be wired into a relay. Activating the outlet. It's pretty simple to do. In this case using 110vac, no biggie either. The only thing that might be a problem for you in the current carrying capacity of the controller it's self. Make sure this thing will be able to carry the load of both the lamp and the fridge.
I did figure out to diagram. What you're seeing in 6,7,8 is the actual switch in it's energized state. This is a NO (normally open) configuration. So SP1 reaches it's setpoint this closes a relay, routing power from 7 to 6. In a NC (normally closed) config the relay will energize open. So 7 feeds 8 relay activates and 8 goes dead. At least that's what I'm making of it thus far.
I did figure out to diagram. What you're seeing in 6,7,8 is the actual switch in it's energized state. This is a NO (normally open) configuration. So SP1 reaches it's setpoint this closes a relay, routing power from 7 to 6. In a NC (normally closed) config the relay will energize open. So 7 feeds 8 relay activates and 8 goes dead. At least that's what I'm making of it thus far.
#8
VIP Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 22,776
Car Info: '13 BRZ Limited / '02 WRX
Without seeing the TB it's difficult to say what goes where. IN a not shell.
Blk=Hot
Wht=Neu
Grn=Ground
BLK must stay with BLK throughout the circuit. It must go through a load before returning on the NEU.
The Ground is a non-current carrying conductor. It is used to bond each component within the system, this is called equalized potential. A fault will always take the path of least resistance to ground. By bonding the entire circuit you equalize potential and give a fault a straight shot to ground. Hard short breaker trips. Got it?
Blk=Hot
Wht=Neu
Grn=Ground
BLK must stay with BLK throughout the circuit. It must go through a load before returning on the NEU.
The Ground is a non-current carrying conductor. It is used to bond each component within the system, this is called equalized potential. A fault will always take the path of least resistance to ground. By bonding the entire circuit you equalize potential and give a fault a straight shot to ground. Hard short breaker trips. Got it?
Originally Posted by ipozestu
I did figure out to diagram. What you're seeing in 6,7,8 is the actual switch in it's energized state. This is a NO (normally open) configuration. So SP1 reaches it's setpoint this closes a relay, routing power from 7 to 6. In a NC (normally closed) config the relay will energize open. So 7 feeds 8 relay activates and 8 goes dead. At least that's what I'm making of it thus far.
I may have to add a fan to each outlet to even out the temperature in the entire chamber which is why I'm leaving an open outlet on each output.
Last edited by VRT MBasile; 02-04-2010 at 11:53 AM.
#9
VIP Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Subabrew Crew
Posts: 7,570
Car Info: Broken Subarus
BY the looks of things you are going to end up drawing too much current through the controller. If you're within capacity of the controller you can hard wire the heat and cooling directly to the controller and the fan can be run separately. There's a million options how this can be wired up. Much more simple that switching an outlet.
#10
VIP Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 22,776
Car Info: '13 BRZ Limited / '02 WRX
BY the looks of things you are going to end up drawing too much current through the controller. If you're within capacity of the controller you can hard wire the heat and cooling directly to the controller and the fan can be run separately. There's a million options how this can be wired up. Much more simple that switching an outlet.
I'll be ordering the controller tomorrow, so I'll post up a picture of the back once I get it. I don't mind hard wiring the heating element into the controller, but I want to avoid having to cut up the fridge wiring because then it can never go back to being a normal fridge.
Last edited by VRT MBasile; 02-04-2010 at 12:17 PM.
#12
VIP Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 22,776
Car Info: '13 BRZ Limited / '02 WRX
Another option is wiring up a cheap household HVAC thermostat, but for that I'd have to put the thermostat in the chamber because they don't have an external temp probe (that I'm aware of).
Last edited by VRT MBasile; 02-04-2010 at 01:46 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DougZ
Subaru General
5
09-13-2007 10:47 AM