My bike build
09-22-2009 | 08:32 PM
#61
09-23-2009 | 03:38 PM
#62
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From: Belmont, CA
Car Info: Rollin' on compressed buffalo
the frame and some goodies are for sale. please check out the classifieds if you guys are interested
09-23-2009 | 03:51 PM
#64
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Posts: 3,165
From: Mazda NAO
Car Info: 1969 BMW R75/5 & Work Whip
09-23-2009 | 03:52 PM
#65
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From: I wuv imprezeR with all muh heartz. CareBearZ fur
Car Info: 05' Evo MR w/E85 - 10' Ralliart Sportback w/E85
It's a SS, hence the lack of foot retention. I don't like to bomb busy redlights and ride brakeless hipster fixed so I set it up SS with a single rear brake like I used on my old BMX bikes that I survived 34 years with.
09-23-2009 | 03:56 PM
#66
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From: Belmont, CA
Car Info: Rollin' on compressed buffalo
anyways. i'm a little over 5'6. i set up the bike to where i can actually stand over it and the top tube is slightly touching my nuts (this is without shoes, 700s). they dont touch with shoes but i have less than an inch clearance and i want that extra clearance just in case i need to bail. a frame size lower will actually give me almost 1.5 inches of clearance to help protect my baby batter factory.
Last edited by Horse; 09-23-2009 at 04:13 PM.
09-23-2009 | 04:04 PM
#67
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Posts: 3,165
From: Mazda NAO
Car Info: 1969 BMW R75/5 & Work Whip
09-23-2009 | 04:31 PM
#69
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From: Belmont, CA
Car Info: Rollin' on compressed buffalo
Factory Lube
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.
Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.
Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
09-23-2009 | 05:35 PM
#71
The packing grease IS a great rust protector, but it's too viscous to be ideal for actual cycling. Essentially they put it on there to cover their asses, because if they put nothing on there then the people that don't know what they're doing would be complaining about the product. Let me compare this to cars that come slightly de-tuned from the factory to increase ease of driving: it's not a bad thing for many, but you can get more out of it if you know what you're doing.
09-23-2009 | 05:36 PM
#72
How many links is the chain? I don't deal with KMC chains a lot, but I know they do a lot of BMX chains, so make sure you have enough links there before you do something that might prevent you from being able to return it.
09-23-2009 | 06:24 PM
#74
IMO, riding a freewheel bike with only a rear brake is the same as riding a fixed gear with no brakes; needlessly dangerous. But hey, it's your world, were just living in it.
As for brand new chains, I love the factory applied grease; so smooth. I wish it lasted forever.
