My bike build
09-16-2009, 09:22 PM
#31
ok so i did some research and found out that there are also internal routed brake cables, and brake levers that go on the end of the bar rather than on the side of the bar. i really like the look plus ill have brakes. i want this to look really clean (cable tucked/ internally routed) and safe. i probably need to drill a hole into the handle bar and possibly into the stem, steerer tube, and fork. i have little grommets that i bought for my car that i can use to protect the cable from being cut by the holes i will make.
anyone notice any downfalls with this setup?
anyone notice any downfalls with this setup?
The cable doesn't go inside the bar, it just goes underneath the bar tape. If you don't plan on wrapping the whole bar you can just secure it with electrical tape. Black bar, black cable housing, black tape routed on the bottom of the bar; nobody will be able to tell.
The brake is designed to be used with specific cable routing. The cable leaves the bars at about the stem and flows down to the brake arm. Routing it some trick way through the steer tube just wouldn't work. Besides, if you drilled a hole through your head tube and steer tube and ran a cable though it your bike would no longer turn.
09-16-2009, 09:35 PM
#34
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Yeah, go with one Time Trial lever (the kind your talking about that mount on the end of a bullhorn bar), it will look clean.
The cable doesn't go inside the bar, it just goes underneath the bar tape. If you don't plan on wrapping the whole bar you can just secure it with electrical tape. Black bar, black cable housing, black tape routed on the bottom of the bar; nobody will be able to tell.
The brake is designed to be used with specific cable routing. The cable leaves the bars at about the stem and flows down to the brake arm. Routing it some trick way through the steer tube just wouldn't work. Besides, if you drilled a hole through your head tube and steer tube and ran a cable though it your bike would no longer turn.
The cable doesn't go inside the bar, it just goes underneath the bar tape. If you don't plan on wrapping the whole bar you can just secure it with electrical tape. Black bar, black cable housing, black tape routed on the bottom of the bar; nobody will be able to tell.
The brake is designed to be used with specific cable routing. The cable leaves the bars at about the stem and flows down to the brake arm. Routing it some trick way through the steer tube just wouldn't work. Besides, if you drilled a hole through your head tube and steer tube and ran a cable though it your bike would no longer turn.
09-16-2009, 10:39 PM
#35
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I don't like them either but I don't go out of my way to knock them. There's always a flip side to things
09-16-2009, 11:44 PM
#37
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Just to make it clear to the OP since a lot of people have mentioned 48x17 --- This is the wrong ratio to use for hill climbing. 48x17 is great for flat, but you're going to be way out of your power band trying to take that up hills.
09-16-2009, 11:47 PM
#38
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Take a geared bike (with 700c wheels) for a ride meanwhile keeping it in the same gear. Figure out what ratio works, and then apply that ratio to the 17t cog you've already purchased to figure out the ideal chainring size.
09-17-2009, 08:32 AM
#39
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I've got a few buddies who ride fixies, some who are into it and get new parts etc, and some that have 20 dollar bikes that just happen to be fixies because that's the only rear wheel they could find. I've met some normal down to earth cyclist that ride fixies, but it just seems that all I see now are these nubs that jumped on the bandwagon. They got the tight pants, little caps, v neck shirts and seem to think they own the road and ride where ever they want. It's also ****ing hilarious when you see these 12 year old kids who are dressed the same riding fixies that are WAY to big for them.
09-17-2009, 05:08 PM
#40
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update:
i noticed that there was a little packaging blemish on the frame and it has become a serious eye sore
the fix
and then these babies came in a nice brown box from the forks in brown
nashbar forks compared to the stock kilo tt forks. huge weight difference
i noticed that there was a little packaging blemish on the frame and it has become a serious eye sore
the fix
and then these babies came in a nice brown box from the forks in brown
nashbar forks compared to the stock kilo tt forks. huge weight difference
09-17-2009, 05:12 PM
#41
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i just picked this up today and installed the rim tape as well as the all weather tire. sealed bearings on a formula hub. the finish seems bulletproof. i wrestled with the tire and never made a scratch. still needs air though
09-17-2009, 06:47 PM
#43
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That frame looks familiar, good luck on the build, and put some brakes on before you kill yourself.
09-17-2009, 07:37 PM
#44
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Damn that looks awesome. I really want to build a bike too, I think next summer, it will be my project. I'm too busy with school now. How much is it going to be to build this? Keep us updated.
09-17-2009, 09:15 PM
#45
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my budget is a grand with trial/error, brand new parts, and tools, but it can be had for less if you know exactly what to get and where to get it. i'm not really going cheap on parts so the brand/quality/setup/new or used plays a factor. so far im just under that and still need a seat post, saddle, brakes, headset, and stem...