Humboldt County thread
#1066
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: California
Posts: 204
Car Info: 02' JDM STi Ver. 7/8 Conversion
Yea I havent been to a meet yet and Ive been an enthusiast for 5 years! Its just timing i guess. Ah and that reminds me that Ive had my catless exhaust (which is loud) for 5 years and had never been pulled over for excessive noise, even when I was pulled over for speeding several times before never got any hassle, Until Now by a CHP. He said as he was coming to my window "WOW dude your exhaust is Extremely Loud! Is that thing carb Legal?" I just said uhh, well a little ways back my silencer fell out and i have it in the trunk if you want to see, also I'm only a couple blocks from home and there Im able to bolt it back in. I just keep it in the car incase this ever happened. Then The officer went to the front of the car and said are these lights legal? They dont look like it... I said Yes they are legal they are OEM Factory lights. (JDM STi HID Headlights with blue coated Amber flash Blinkers and yellow running lights All CA Legal). Then he said Im going to have to ask you to open your hood. I was like oh god here we go. LoL... as soon as I did he laughed and said this was going to be good, I was like ah Crap! ( I have a JDM STi Motor and Hardly anything is stock, let alone legal, lol). But he only looked at the PCV valve and throttle body then over to the fuel lines and didnt realize anything that looked out of the ordinary. He said they were getting funded for stopping/finding street racers and illegal modifications, also said mods in general are usually how you find them. I laughed and said Sorry Im not some punk street racer, I go to the Track in a sanctioned/safe area if I want to do something. He then Said after looking under the car and shaking his head I dont know anything about Subaru's, I just smiled thinking I was saved since It was completely obvious I was catless and everything on the car was JDM. So he then said Ill just give you a warning but If I see you again without that silencer I have to reference you to the nearest Smog Station. He then asked if I knew where the nearest was and I said, Eureka? He said it used to be but now its in Santa Rosa. Yikes. He said he really liked the car and thought it looked great, I said thanks and we went our ways. Sheesh now I drive with the silencer in it just because If I go down there it is NOT going to pass and im going to have big problems.... Anywho thats my story for today. Hope none of you guys get pulled over for those reasons.
#1069
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: California
Posts: 204
Car Info: 02' JDM STi Ver. 7/8 Conversion
Cha I was lucky! Im considering looking for an exhaust that yields the same power but is quieter and sounds great (Im very picky) as to not attract any officers. When the silencer is in it sounds like a honda with a $50 exhaust, kinda annoying but lowers the decibles greatly so it will work for now.
#1070
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BorderJumperEnforcer's momma's house
Posts: 2,506
Car Info: Fast
Check out the Cobb, or any catback with an oval muffler. Until you get well up into the 300s (on a Mustang Dyno ) you will not notice any power difference. Even then it will be in the very topend
#1073
Any body been out to the off road area at the jetty? some pretty good dirt roads lead up to the entrance to the beach....if only we could close it all off we could have some fun!!
#1074
oh ya Taylor; here is the R&R on your front sway bar......piece o cake!
A: REMOVAL
1. Jack-up the front part of the vehicle and support it with safety stands (rigid racks).
2. Remove the jack-up plate from lower part of crossmember.
3. Remove the sub frame.
4. Remove the bolt and nut, which secure the stabilizer to crossmember.
5. Remove the bolts, which secure the stabilizer link to front transverse link.
B: INSTALLATION
1. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
* Install the bushing (on front crossmember side) while aligning it with paint mark on stabilizer.
* Ensure the bushing and stabilizer have the same identification colors when installing.
2. Always tighten the rubber bushing location when wheels are in full contact with the ground and vehicle is curb weight. Tightening torque (Sedan turbo models: Jack-up plate to crossmember: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer link to front transverse link: 45 Nm (4.6 kgf-m, 33 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer to crossmember: 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18.1 ft. lbs.) Tightening torque (Except sedan turbo model): Jack-up plate to crossmember: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer link to front transverse link: 30 Nm (3.1 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer to crossmember: 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18.1 ft. lbs.)
3. Install the sub frame.
C: INSPECTION
1. Check the bushing for cracks, fatigue or damage.
2. Check the stabilizer link for deformities, cracks or damage, and bushing for protrusions from the hole of stabilizer link.
A: REMOVAL
1. Jack-up the front part of the vehicle and support it with safety stands (rigid racks).
2. Remove the jack-up plate from lower part of crossmember.
3. Remove the sub frame.
4. Remove the bolt and nut, which secure the stabilizer to crossmember.
5. Remove the bolts, which secure the stabilizer link to front transverse link.
B: INSTALLATION
1. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
* Install the bushing (on front crossmember side) while aligning it with paint mark on stabilizer.
* Ensure the bushing and stabilizer have the same identification colors when installing.
2. Always tighten the rubber bushing location when wheels are in full contact with the ground and vehicle is curb weight. Tightening torque (Sedan turbo models: Jack-up plate to crossmember: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer link to front transverse link: 45 Nm (4.6 kgf-m, 33 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer to crossmember: 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18.1 ft. lbs.) Tightening torque (Except sedan turbo model): Jack-up plate to crossmember: 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer link to front transverse link: 30 Nm (3.1 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.) Stabilizer to crossmember: 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18.1 ft. lbs.)
3. Install the sub frame.
C: INSPECTION
1. Check the bushing for cracks, fatigue or damage.
2. Check the stabilizer link for deformities, cracks or damage, and bushing for protrusions from the hole of stabilizer link.
#1075
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: California
Posts: 204
Car Info: 02' JDM STi Ver. 7/8 Conversion
Yea I would, Except im putting down around 340-350whp on a Mustang Dyno. :P
#1076
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BorderJumperEnforcer's momma's house
Posts: 2,506
Car Info: Fast
You cannot have max power and a quiet car, it does not work like that UNLESS you get an exhaust cutout with a boost activated switch. You can have your quiet exhaust with max flow up top and when you need/want it.
BTW, you are running 350 Mustang Dyno WHP on a twinscroll VF turbo with a 20g wheel? Dyno chart or BS!! :P
#1077
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: California
Posts: 204
Car Info: 02' JDM STi Ver. 7/8 Conversion
haha I would prove the Dyno Charts if I had them believe me, the only thing is that this final time we did a Road Tune instead (Dyno was currently unavailable and I had a 6hr drive home that evening). Jarred at PDX Tuning told me what the avg whp should be with the ratios we got. With the ratios I put down, it would net somewhere in that whp range if it was Dyno'd (average whp ratios he sees around 340whp). So Im taking his word for it, but Its amazingly faster than the last tune on the 16G EVO3 Turbo at 270whp (which was on a low tune). This time Im running 22-23 PSI and its a much more efficient turbo and added a few other goodies. I am also considering on getting a meth/water 50/50 injection kit.
#1078
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BorderJumperEnforcer's momma's house
Posts: 2,506
Car Info: Fast
Do you have a laptop and a Tactrix cable, or some way of taking logs? If so you could take some RPM ONLY logs and we could plug them into the Airboy spreadsheet. It reads a little higher than an MD, but it is great for checking the state of your tune, as well as little tweaks.
i run an AVC-S boost controller, so it is especially helpful. That and it is fun to do 4th gear pulls and lay them over my baseline
IMO you should skip the meth. It adds more moving parts that will quickly destroy an engine if they fail. E85 is the future, although it is not likely CC will see it soon. Race fuel tho...but to all their own. At least make sure you have a system that will cut boost if you run out of meth or if it stops pumping.
i run an AVC-S boost controller, so it is especially helpful. That and it is fun to do 4th gear pulls and lay them over my baseline
IMO you should skip the meth. It adds more moving parts that will quickly destroy an engine if they fail. E85 is the future, although it is not likely CC will see it soon. Race fuel tho...but to all their own. At least make sure you have a system that will cut boost if you run out of meth or if it stops pumping.
#1079
hello everyone....just saying hi and introducing myself, I ran into a person the other day (forgot his name) but he told me to check this form out. anyway I drive a 2007 SWP STI.
****ty Iphone pic with my winter wheels on.
****ty Iphone pic with my winter wheels on.
#1080
oh and I want your wheels! got an extra set ?
Last edited by Ragnarok; 06-02-2010 at 12:13 PM. Reason: delete pic