Gran Turismo 4 (threads merged)
#301
Originally Posted by iBlueVirus
anyone?
What fixed it for me was calling Logitech. They sent me a new pedals AND wheel without asking for the original one back. I called Friday, they got it to me today.
Of course it's possible the new unit will develop the problem with time... But damn if that ain't customer service!
Last edited by FUNKED1; 03-30-2005 at 05:08 AM.
#302
what the hell did you tell them? I contact them through their online thing and they told me to do a RMA, which means I have to send in my old one.
Originally Posted by FUNKED1
Some info on fixes here: http://gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43686
What fixed it for me was calling Logitech. They sent me a new pedals AND wheel without asking for the original one back. I called Friday, they got it to me today.
Of course it's possible the new unit will develop the problem with time... But damn if that ain't customer service!
What fixed it for me was calling Logitech. They sent me a new pedals AND wheel without asking for the original one back. I called Friday, they got it to me today.
Of course it's possible the new unit will develop the problem with time... But damn if that ain't customer service!
#303
nm..
Originally Posted by FUNKED1
Some info on fixes here: http://gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43686
What fixed it for me was calling Logitech. They sent me a new pedals AND wheel without asking for the original one back. I called Friday, they got it to me today.
Of course it's possible the new unit will develop the problem with time... But damn if that ain't customer service!
What fixed it for me was calling Logitech. They sent me a new pedals AND wheel without asking for the original one back. I called Friday, they got it to me today.
Of course it's possible the new unit will develop the problem with time... But damn if that ain't customer service!
Last edited by DetailAddict; 03-30-2005 at 09:33 AM.
#304
FUNKED1 gave a great link and here is the summary of all fixes for the brake auto engage problem.
Take the base apart do the following:
1. The wire that goes into the base needs to be pull into the base some more
2. Tape it down to prevent movements
3. re-seat and secure ALL springs
4. Locate the connection clips to the potentiometer, disconnect, tighten the clip, and reconnect, or solder the connection to provide an oxygen free connection.
Put everything back together.
Pictures for reference:
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e1.html
I have done any of them yet, just got it and still at work. But just by reading that thread. I think the last one is the most important one. Have fun!
Take the base apart do the following:
1. The wire that goes into the base needs to be pull into the base some more
2. Tape it down to prevent movements
3. re-seat and secure ALL springs
4. Locate the connection clips to the potentiometer, disconnect, tighten the clip, and reconnect, or solder the connection to provide an oxygen free connection.
Put everything back together.
Pictures for reference:
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e1.html
I have done any of them yet, just got it and still at work. But just by reading that thread. I think the last one is the most important one. Have fun!
#305
Originally Posted by iBlueVirus
what the hell did you tell them? I contact them through their online thing and they told me to do a RMA, which means I have to send in my old one.
#306
Also check out the part on the .hu site about putting tape on the pedal shafts. The shafts fit in the journals pretty loosely, and there is a lot of radial movement, and I think this contributes to the problem. I'm going to try removing the grease, applying teflon tape, and re-greasing them.
Last edited by FUNKED1; 03-30-2005 at 03:53 PM.
#307
really? maybe i should give that a try. I read the link you gave me and a lot of people called. Some got a new one like you and some have to do RMA (like me). Some didn't really get what they wanted.
Originally Posted by FUNKED1
Also check out the part on the .hu site about putting tape on the pedal shafts. The shafts fit in the journals pretty loosely, and there is a lot of radial movement, and I think this contributes to the problem. I'm going to try removing the grease, applying teflon tape, and re-greasing them.
#308
This Guy Can Hella Draw!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: BAIC Wagon Clique
Posts: 3,314
Car Info: '14 MBP FXT | '03 WW Evo VIII
I am at 13.7%. Spent some time this weekend practicing drifting with a Bathurst RX-7. I still suck - but better than a week ago. I won the Japan compact race with a Toyota MR-S... Kinda cheap. haha.
#310
This Guy Can Hella Draw!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: BAIC Wagon Clique
Posts: 3,314
Car Info: '14 MBP FXT | '03 WW Evo VIII
I still have to finish up the beginner events. I have the truck race to do. Any suggestions? Can I win one one somewhere so I don't have to buy one?
Anyway, my Impreza collection is getting bigger:
I have:
ver. IV STi Sedan
22B
ver. VI STi Wagon
ver. VI STi Coupe Type R
ver. VII STi Wagon
Impreza Touring Car No. 97
Anyway, my Impreza collection is getting bigger:
I have:
ver. IV STi Sedan
22B
ver. VI STi Wagon
ver. VI STi Coupe Type R
ver. VII STi Wagon
Impreza Touring Car No. 97
#311
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: bay area
Posts: 82
Car Info: 02 wrx wagon
![Red face](https://www.i-club.com/forums/images/icons/icon11.gif)
Originally Posted by iBlueVirus
anyone?
Time to give the Tech Support a buzz ..
#312
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: bay area
Posts: 82
Car Info: 02 wrx wagon
called tech support, but they want me to try on other driving games to make sure it's not a game specified issue. I tried on GT3, WRC: World Rally Championship, I found out that break won't even apply when I step on break padel. I assumed it's because those are older games and not compatible with DFP wheel .. I also tried the NFS 2 doesn't seem to have the same problem with wheel.
I dont have a PC , so can't try it on PC.
Anyone got other suggestion on how I can get a replacement wheel?
Or
on a game that is 1. compatible with DFP wheel, 2. Has build-in break indicator lilke GT4 that allow me to see the problem of unwanted breaking occur?
thanks
I dont have a PC , so can't try it on PC.
Anyone got other suggestion on how I can get a replacement wheel?
Or
on a game that is 1. compatible with DFP wheel, 2. Has build-in break indicator lilke GT4 that allow me to see the problem of unwanted breaking occur?
thanks
#313
Taction, stick up for yourself. Tell them "It is broken". Don't let them ask questions. They shouldn't put the burden on you to go out and try it in 1000 different combinations.
If the person you are talking to doesn't budge, speak to his manager. You paid good money for the wheel, get them to fix it.
If the person you are talking to doesn't budge, speak to his manager. You paid good money for the wheel, get them to fix it.
#314
Oh yeah, I've picked up some nice cars recently.
Ford GT LM 04
Mazda 787B
Toyota Minolta LM
Zonda Race Car
and some others. No F1 car yet, but its time will come.
Most fun race:
Hong Kong in the Toyota Minolta, stage 4, part of the Pro championship. Lots of blind turns, different road materials (which give different amounts of traction), and tight streets.
Ford GT LM 04
Mazda 787B
Toyota Minolta LM
Zonda Race Car
and some others. No F1 car yet, but its time will come.
Most fun race:
Hong Kong in the Toyota Minolta, stage 4, part of the Pro championship. Lots of blind turns, different road materials (which give different amounts of traction), and tight streets.