not12listen

at 700rpm, my RS is kicking out more CO and HC than it should... by a wide margin at that.

at 2500rpm, it is SPOTLESS and clean as a whistle...

at current, i have an Injen (CARB legal) intake, Borla style header, both cats and both o2 sensors and stock RS exhaust. i have no CEL errors at all. so yeah. not sure what to think or where to go from here...

at the moment, i'm running 89 octane Shell gas. would switching to 87 or 91 help this situation? my oil has less than 200 miles on it as well...

so... anyone got any ideas as per why i'm a 'gross polluter' at low rpms? the guy at the smog shop said 'its basically unburnt fuel.'

Rescuer

iTrader: (9)

bad a/f ratio?

i have an a/f meter if you need one

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

Did you warm up your car before you took it in? Or did it sit for a while.

Best thing to do is get it nice and hot before you take it in. Might help to pop that intake off too.

not12listen

i am unsure if the a/f is off or not... again, at 2500rpm it was SPOTLESS and ULTRA clean...

what sorta a/f meter?

i did not drive it hard prior to going for the smog. and with the fact that its raining, it doesnt help either.

upon first run, it failed. then the guy ran it at 2500rpm for 3 minutes solid. still failed after that.

i dont wanna sound like a jerk, but how would putting the factory intake back on help? i thought the whole point of being CARB legal was to legally prove to the state that it did NOT alter emissions... am i wrong?

Rescuer

iTrader: (9)

one of these little led autometer ones
http://www.boostcontroller.com/produ...M4375large.jpg

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

CARB legal and passing smog are two different things. I passed smog with an AEM cold air, DC headers, high flow cat, cam, cam gear, head work...etc with my civic.

If you don't pass the sniff then the visual doesn't even matter. The carb could be the source of running rich at low RPM so take away one possibly source of the issue and try again. Takes what... 20 minutes to swap intakes.

Point of CARB legal is to not get tickets from a LEO. Passing the sniffer is your responsibility.



Next time run the car hard for a little while. Get the cats nice and hot. Then go in.

not12listen

well drat.

last i recall (without getting the papers out), the allowable CO was 1.00%, i was at 2.30%... so yeah.

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

Also, when was the last time you changed your spark plugs? If they are old, I would recommend changing them out before trying again. Also, as others said, drive the car around for a good 15-20 minutes before taking it to the smog test to ensure the cats are nice and hot. I usually just hop on the freeway and cruise up and down a few exits for awhile.

not12listen

my next thought was to swap the spark plugs. yeah. i'll have to just take a nice romp up and down the freeway for a while, before heading into the smog shop again.

this morning, i literally went from home to the smog shop (5 minute drive, 2 exits down). so, obviously, not hot enough.

GST Motorsports

iTrader: (14)

How much did it fail by? Exact numbers if you have them.

Mike

not12listen

idle:
HC max: 100
HC actual: 136
CO max: 1.0
CO actual: 2.29

2500rpm:
HC max: 130
HC actual: 11
CO max: 1.0
CO actual: 0.00

those are the exact numbers from the print out.

kYLEMtnCRUZr

iTrader: (6)

look up acetone info, its suppose to burn the mixture better than normal so they say.

Like 1 oz to 10 gallons or something. May help, I'm no scientist

sigma pi

iTrader: (6)

raise the idle to 2k

camshaft06

iTrader: (3)

+10000 for getting those cats nice and hot before showing up, it will make a BIG difference.

not12listen

ahhahaha! actually, i DO prefer a slightly higher idle...

in my 86 Mr2, stock idle is around 800-900rpm. i jacked mine up to about 1500rpm. when it started, it was soooooooooooooooo smooth...

unfortunately, i do not have the tools necessary to log into the ECU and alter the idle. i'd like to have it bumped up to 1200rpm.