Do you ever wash your car and...
03-20-2007, 08:56 AM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 96
Car Info: 2007 NBP FA5 Si
The Proper use Clay
Clay Bar-ing, Clay-ing...whatever you may call this important process, keep in mind that It is just that: a PROCESS. What this article intends to do is give the average Joe (or Jane) the means to 'clay' the proper way.
The first thing we need to do is to figure out why we use the clay process. It's simple. Our cars are bombarded daily by contaminants. Most of these can't be seen, however most can be felt, and can be detrimental to the future success of your car's finish. No matter how many times you wash, what kind of polish you use, or how much "elbow grease" is involved, this contamination remains whether we like it or not. The contaminants actually become imbedded in the clear coat, and are sometimes so bad that they actually infiltrate the paint layer, usually producing the first signs of rust on an otherwise new car. There are a few major contributors to this contamination. The most violent of these would be METAL contaminants such as brake dust(metal/ceramic byproduct that is produced by the scuffing of brake pads on rotors) and rail dust(tiny metal shavings produced by the contact of train wheels on train tracks). Other forms of contamination include: Glass shavings, small pieces of gravel and dirt, Tree Sap, paint overspray, water spots(calcium deposits), and industrial fallout. What the Clay process does is cleans the paint surface by removing every last contaminant and creates a silky smooth foundation for your detailing products. Abrasive polishes such as rubbing compounds may remove some of these, but be forewarned--you may eat away at your clear coat or perhaps even your first layer of paint if you aren't careful. The best idea is to stick with the clay process, it pulls out the contamination rather than scratching it off. Remember that the clay process--even though it is not abrasive--will most likely will remove your previous wax, so use this as one of your first steps in your detailing plan.
The next thing we need to do is to know how to clay. Most clay kits come with a lubricant and a clay bar. The lubricant is used to keep the tacky clay from sticking to your car's finish, and it should be applied liberally. 1st, we need to start with a clean car. Do not be tempted to skip this step as it may do more harm than good...your clay bar is designed to remove contaminants, not to sop up dirt from your car. Make sure your clay has been "worked" some before you use it--squeeze and fold the clay continuously--the warmth of your hands will make it a bit more malleable. Don't make the clay a ball, don't make it a square, you want to make it as close to rectangular as possible, or so that the most clay surface is in contact with your car's finish, it will make your clay experience thorough and fast. Depending on which clay "kit" or "package" you might have, your clay size/type will vary, as will the amount and size/type of your clay lubricant.
Plan out a work area on your car of about 2 feet by 2 feet. Spray your work area with a heavy mist of your lubricant. Start by gliding the clay over the surface of your work area--you will notice the clay may grab slightly, but as you lightly rub in a random motion the clay will move more freely. Once the clay is gliding, apply MEDIUM pressure to your random motion. You will hear the contaminants under the clay being pulled away...listen as you glide the clay, as the sound goes away, less emphasis needs to be on that particular part of your work area. Take note: some areas may need more work than others. Listen to the sound of the areas that need work, and keep using MEDIUM pressure over those areas, never apply HARD pressure. As you continue to work "trouble spots," remember to use plenty of lubricant as your original mist may have either rolled off the surface or simply dried by the air. Don't get caught being stingy with the lubricant...remember that most automotive grade clay is very tacky, and can grab onto the surface and quite possibly cause surface damage by grinding contaminants back into the paint.
When you believe your work area is complete, use a Microfiber Towel to remove the excess lubricant, turning the towel often. Make sure you aren't wearing anything that could damage the surface(rings, watches, etc.) and glide the back of your hand over the surface. It should feel smooth, with no gritty elements. If there are, re-clay the specific area in which you felt any roughness. Give a final mist over your area and use your microfiber towel to do a final wipe-down of the area. Your work area is now complete! Move on to your next work area. Notice the surface area of your clay. The dark stuff you see on the bar is what was stuck in your paint that washing alone could not remove. Remember to "work" the clay before you go on to your next section of your car's finish, you don't want to take those contaminants and place them somewhere else! Repeat the process for the entire car.
When you are done, your car should feel like glass, and is ready for it's polish/wax. The process shouldn't take too long, but lofty goals of 15 minutes stated by certain car wax manufacturers is a bit erroneous. Again, I'm not trying to help you folks get this process done fast, I'm trying to help you get this process done properly.
If your paint is oxidized or has swirls/scratches the clay process unfortunately can't improve upon those problems, but there will always be another proper way to take care of a detailing issue.
--jeff2417
Clay Bar-ing, Clay-ing...whatever you may call this important process, keep in mind that It is just that: a PROCESS. What this article intends to do is give the average Joe (or Jane) the means to 'clay' the proper way.
The first thing we need to do is to figure out why we use the clay process. It's simple. Our cars are bombarded daily by contaminants. Most of these can't be seen, however most can be felt, and can be detrimental to the future success of your car's finish. No matter how many times you wash, what kind of polish you use, or how much "elbow grease" is involved, this contamination remains whether we like it or not. The contaminants actually become imbedded in the clear coat, and are sometimes so bad that they actually infiltrate the paint layer, usually producing the first signs of rust on an otherwise new car. There are a few major contributors to this contamination. The most violent of these would be METAL contaminants such as brake dust(metal/ceramic byproduct that is produced by the scuffing of brake pads on rotors) and rail dust(tiny metal shavings produced by the contact of train wheels on train tracks). Other forms of contamination include: Glass shavings, small pieces of gravel and dirt, Tree Sap, paint overspray, water spots(calcium deposits), and industrial fallout. What the Clay process does is cleans the paint surface by removing every last contaminant and creates a silky smooth foundation for your detailing products. Abrasive polishes such as rubbing compounds may remove some of these, but be forewarned--you may eat away at your clear coat or perhaps even your first layer of paint if you aren't careful. The best idea is to stick with the clay process, it pulls out the contamination rather than scratching it off. Remember that the clay process--even though it is not abrasive--will most likely will remove your previous wax, so use this as one of your first steps in your detailing plan.
The next thing we need to do is to know how to clay. Most clay kits come with a lubricant and a clay bar. The lubricant is used to keep the tacky clay from sticking to your car's finish, and it should be applied liberally. 1st, we need to start with a clean car. Do not be tempted to skip this step as it may do more harm than good...your clay bar is designed to remove contaminants, not to sop up dirt from your car. Make sure your clay has been "worked" some before you use it--squeeze and fold the clay continuously--the warmth of your hands will make it a bit more malleable. Don't make the clay a ball, don't make it a square, you want to make it as close to rectangular as possible, or so that the most clay surface is in contact with your car's finish, it will make your clay experience thorough and fast. Depending on which clay "kit" or "package" you might have, your clay size/type will vary, as will the amount and size/type of your clay lubricant.
Plan out a work area on your car of about 2 feet by 2 feet. Spray your work area with a heavy mist of your lubricant. Start by gliding the clay over the surface of your work area--you will notice the clay may grab slightly, but as you lightly rub in a random motion the clay will move more freely. Once the clay is gliding, apply MEDIUM pressure to your random motion. You will hear the contaminants under the clay being pulled away...listen as you glide the clay, as the sound goes away, less emphasis needs to be on that particular part of your work area. Take note: some areas may need more work than others. Listen to the sound of the areas that need work, and keep using MEDIUM pressure over those areas, never apply HARD pressure. As you continue to work "trouble spots," remember to use plenty of lubricant as your original mist may have either rolled off the surface or simply dried by the air. Don't get caught being stingy with the lubricant...remember that most automotive grade clay is very tacky, and can grab onto the surface and quite possibly cause surface damage by grinding contaminants back into the paint.
When you believe your work area is complete, use a Microfiber Towel to remove the excess lubricant, turning the towel often. Make sure you aren't wearing anything that could damage the surface(rings, watches, etc.) and glide the back of your hand over the surface. It should feel smooth, with no gritty elements. If there are, re-clay the specific area in which you felt any roughness. Give a final mist over your area and use your microfiber towel to do a final wipe-down of the area. Your work area is now complete! Move on to your next work area. Notice the surface area of your clay. The dark stuff you see on the bar is what was stuck in your paint that washing alone could not remove. Remember to "work" the clay before you go on to your next section of your car's finish, you don't want to take those contaminants and place them somewhere else! Repeat the process for the entire car.
When you are done, your car should feel like glass, and is ready for it's polish/wax. The process shouldn't take too long, but lofty goals of 15 minutes stated by certain car wax manufacturers is a bit erroneous. Again, I'm not trying to help you folks get this process done fast, I'm trying to help you get this process done properly.
If your paint is oxidized or has swirls/scratches the clay process unfortunately can't improve upon those problems, but there will always be another proper way to take care of a detailing issue.
--jeff2417
03-20-2007, 08:59 AM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 96
Car Info: 2007 NBP FA5 Si
Originally Posted by Tele-Viper
Oh yeah...left that part out =) I think you should hit them with a few pix of the blue streak.
http://www.topoftheline.com/toltradcarwa.html
03-20-2007, 08:59 AM
#33
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Milpitas
Posts: 847
Car Info: 05 WRX Wagon and 08 Civic Si
Originally Posted by MBasile
:rotfl: this is my kind of guy. My car is rarely clean
on, and claybar should get those small scuffs youre talking about, but I think it takes off some clear coat. You can get it at autozone in a kit
on, and claybar should get those small scuffs youre talking about, but I think it takes off some clear coat. You can get it at autozone in a kit
03-20-2007, 09:41 AM
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 801
Car Info: for the Car Acrobatic Team
Originally Posted by jeff2417
DAMN!
03-20-2007, 02:26 PM
#37
08.11.84 - 02.14.10
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 2,694
Car Info: a center diff that is going...
Originally Posted by wrxtunerd
Originally Posted by kYLEMtnCRUZr
my cats **** on my car, hella pisses me off. tires mostly but paint sometimes
03-20-2007, 03:24 PM
#42
08.11.84 - 02.14.10
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 2,694
Car Info: a center diff that is going...
Originally Posted by AzN121184
i wasn't aware that neutering an animal prevents them from peeing. haha
it will not stop them from peeing but it will make them not "mark their territory" as much. when the "spray" that is usually the smelly part. thus neuter your cat and it may help.
03-20-2007, 03:32 PM
#44
08.11.84 - 02.14.10
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 2,694
Car Info: a center diff that is going...
Originally Posted by Gibz
But if you dont spay or neuter before they start spraying it wont help :/