snowflow

iTrader: (14)

Detail pros, my car just got a fresh paint job. The shop said that the paint is cured and ready to go and said that I can wax it asap to help keep the shine of the fresh paint job. I've heard the saying don't wax or apply chemicals (at least not synthetics) for ~90 days after the paint job.

What is your guys' advice on waxing it after? They said it's fine, but i'm skeptical so i'm double checking. Also what other procedures can I follow to care for the paint job?
Meguiar's website says that their new paint and show polishes are safe and good for fresh paint jobs without affecting the curing.

TIA

Gibz

iTrader: (7)

You should wait 30 days for it to cure

brucelee

iTrader: (6)

I've heard this too, but I've also heard that newer paints don't require the old 30 day period?

snowflow

iTrader: (14)

Yes, i've heard this to. But I heard some people say it's a myth now. Also, my painter said that it's ready for immediate waxing.

Meguiar's website says their show polish is safe for fresh paint to.

455h013

iTrader: (10)

when I had STi repainted a few years ago, the body shop told me to wait 90 days to wax my car. maybe its different from shop to shop cause of the paints. Id say play it safe and just wait.

Javirex23

iTrader: (17)

Its a tough one cause I have heard both...when my gf had her car painted the guys said wait 30says...a friend did his car recently and the shop said its ok to wax, that newer paints cure really quick...I'm guessing it depends on what paint and clear was used on your car...

snowflow

iTrader: (14)

Exactly my point. I've done some research online already and I varies from shop to shop and by what paint is used. I had duplicolor and their polyurethane clear. They said it's safe to wax and that they recommend doing some as soon as possible to maintain the gloss.

If anything i'm going to go buy the meguiars show glaze which they say is both safe and beneficial to fresh paint.

snowflow

iTrader: (14)

and what soap is safe to use when washing?

blue04WRX

iTrader: (2)

car soap that Detail Addict sales is pretty good! I would also purchase a wash mitt, bucket and a grit guard from him as well..

Js azul REX

my buddy is a body shop pro and usually we wait 3 days before washing and 30 days before waxing. BUT if the shop that does the painting also has a car baker, your free to do whatever you want to the paint as if the car has been that color all the while. also i have seen some cars that are just finished no baking, water sanded then buffed like there was no tomorrow and it just has to be polished and buffed with good compound. meguiars is the ish too thats what my friend uses on all of his cars , from pearl colors to camelon to candy .

are you going to do that waxing yourself? and what type ? just the hand wax/ polish? or full on wet sanding and buffer. usually people just do the extreme when there is orange peel in the clear , and what that is , is when you look closely at the clear and it looks like dimples , like a orange

pho_shizzle

iTrader: (17)

No need to get that.... If you truly want to keep your paint's gloss and shine and protect it for a longer term investment from the money you just spent on the paint job, then I would recommend buying a high quality sealant and carnauba paste wax for your car. Quality sealants (Not brand, remember just because a brand is really good, doesn't mean all their products deliver the same quality, some are always better than others) such as Klasse high gloss sealant, DP Poli-coat paint, Megs #21 professional synthetic sealant, CG's jetseal 109 are just to name a few..... As for waxes; the molecular structure of a liquid can only retain so much carnauba, therefore paste waxes most of the time are better. Waxes range anywhere from $10-8,000. I'd take it you would like it keep it within the $30-$120 range? Check out chemical guys, wolfgang, p21s, blackfire, and autoglym HD if you have a black/dark colored car.

Apply sealant before the wax, its a traditional method because that's how chemicals were structured back then. With new technology, sealants such as DP poli-coat will seep into the pores of the wax when applied on top, and will sink down to the base layer because of the substance's difference in density (in short anyways). The wax then rises to the top.

Always use a pH balanced car shampoo, never a dish washing soap detergent. (Reasons on why not to use dish washing soap is another story.) Better quality car shampoos are more forgiving and lets you wash your car in direct sunlight, others not as much. Anything like Adams car shampoo, DetailAddicts car soap, Megs gold class, Wolfgang, pinnacle, Sonax, Finish Kare, P21s, Optimum NR.. just to name a few.

Use a double bucket, with two grit guards preferred to help eliminate the dirt particles coming back on your wash mitt.

Use a sheepskin wool wash mitt, a microfiber towel/mitt, or a ultra high quality sponge only on your cars paint.

Use a waffle weave microfiber drying towel or soft chamois to dry off your car.

If you value your cars paint, those steps listed is the least of what you should do in the process of taking care it.

Just one bad wash is all it takes for a 40 hr car wash and paint correction work..... using the wrong method can destroy your paint. Ask me how I know, wait.... maybe not because that will require me to type more.

pho_shizzle

iTrader: (17)

Orange peeling is when there is over spray of liquid or interference in the even flow of the spray to cause uneven curing which resembles the texture of an orange peel.

Drew's rex

iTrader: (2)

Just wait why risk anything after spending all that time and money? Better safe than sorry homie

antonch

I think it's a myth for new cars. Factories have much better ovens now days. This means paint cures quicker.
If you went for a re-spray, then I'd wait. You need to give paint time to cure.

snowflow

iTrader: (14)

Thank you. I basically put up this thread hoping you'd reply. lol

So wait for it to cure then go from there. Dennis at WFC gets the hookup on chemical guys so i'm about to order some stuff from there. They have a combo sealer/carnuba wax that he recommended me. Has 3x more carnuba in. And some foaming car wash. Going to get some fresh buckets and mitt to.
So did you mean that I need to keep it old school and seal then wax? Or are combo chemicals ok?

Thanks for the reply btw.