cheapest most affordable Daily Driven Coils that wont cost too much
#31
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,064
From: Watson,Kalifas!
Car Info: Un Carrito Que Hace Vrooom Phsss!
i never once told YOU what YOU should do to YOUR car.. try upping your reading skills
and just so you know, coilovers are not the solution to everything.. i only stated how it was in MY day and what coilovers were initially intended for from MY experience.. do you use a hammer to put threaded bolts on your car?? coz i don't and that's simply what i was implying.. yes, coilovers can be used but they're not being used for its intended purpose
if you don't like the answers ppl give, then don't ask
and just so you know, coilovers are not the solution to everything.. i only stated how it was in MY day and what coilovers were initially intended for from MY experience.. do you use a hammer to put threaded bolts on your car?? coz i don't and that's simply what i was implying.. yes, coilovers can be used but they're not being used for its intended purpose
if you don't like the answers ppl give, then don't ask
You never gave me a brand. Maybe you should back track what you wrote and "try upping your OWN reading skills" and if you dont like my questions just move on and quit ruining peoples threads with your pointless/immature comments.
#32
I have BC br series on my car. never ran other coils, but the ride isn't terrible. just set the front 3-5 clicks stiffer in the front and it'll take away almost all of the bouncyness. a slightly hard ride doesnt really bother me (or my gf) either, so that helps the bouncing too. you can get them for a grand.
#34
You never aswered my question first of all. You went off talking about other stuff that had nothing to do with what I asked. My question was "What coilovers I can use for DD (not racing) that are affordable/cheap in price"
You never gave me a brand. Maybe you should back track what you wrote and "try upping your OWN reading skills" and if you dont like my questions just move on and quit ruining peoples threads with your pointless/immature comments.
You never gave me a brand. Maybe you should back track what you wrote and "try upping your OWN reading skills" and if you dont like my questions just move on and quit ruining peoples threads with your pointless/immature comments.
i did not answer your question because i don't believe there is an answer.. coilovers are not meant for the street, do you understand yet?? you're right, all i post is pointless.. and since you oppose what i said, ok sure coilovers are definitely the answer to everything.. coz they don't affect anything else in the suspension geometry.. riiiiiiiight
ya know, with over a thousand hrs of track time, i sure as hell wouldn't know wth i'm talking about.. but ya know what, just to play your game of ignorance, i'll amuse you with an answer you'd like to hear since it seems like you can't take in real info.. go for racelands.. they're cheap, 2yr warranty, owner of racelands organizes illegal racing as his passion so you know it's quality stuff, and you can support another knockoff brand
#39
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From: 865 A Sweetser Ave.Novato, CA (new shop smell too)
Car Info: MY04 STi some call it a race car
Here is my response to all this, take it with a grain of salt.
Cheapest yet most affordable...this all depends on what you consider cheap and affordable?
Here is an easy/simple breakdown and for starters chew on this: all coilovers will wear down more rapidly than any strut combo. All coilovers need servicing in time. Now to the fun stuff!
Cheaper/Budget Coilovers-
BC, Tein (Basic), Stance, HKS, Megan Racing, Older Cusco (yes I know, crazy huh...but this has been fixed with the Zero2E), etc...These are all NOT street coilovers. How can i say such stupid things? Its simple, these are all japanese spec coilovers, much stiffer valving and springs rates, typically are also only single adjustable (compresson/rebound all in one), and the best part ARE NOT rebuildable. so when you spend your $800-$1200 on these and they blow out WHICH THEY WILL, you now have yourself a paperweight...some call it scrap metal as well. Isn't it odd how you see in the classifieds "almost new coilovers for cheap, only used 3,000 miles" hmmm I wonder why that is, oh yeah see above. But with that being said, on a given track setup and track setup only....these lower end "budget" coilovers as some like to call them serve a decent function and offer a great value for its given function.
Typical price range: $800 - $1,500
Daily Driver Coilovers-
at min a KW V3 or AST 4200's. But why? b/c they are European style coilovers with softer valving, softer springs rates, isolated compression/rebound controls, and REBUILD-ABLE. But what does this mean? It means it will work good on our f-ed up cali roads and when they get beat up and wear out or blow out a seal, you didnt just **** away money on a paper weight b/c you can secure your investment by repairing them. The ability to fine tune adjustability is key to comfort and longevity of the product. These likewise are not the best track setup, as they aren't tailored to it but give a decent adjust-ability range for its given multi-use purpose that one uses them for.
Typical price range: $2,000 - $3,000
Race Coilovers-
KW, AST, Ohlins, JRZ, Moton, Penske, etc...these are in there own league and most on this board or any others don't have them or will ever own them. Why? B/c the folks who go this route typically are not the ones on a forum board asking whats the best way to spend at min $10k of there money, and the best part, thats just for the shock. They know what they want and have spoken to the proper professionals for there chosen path.
Typical price range: $6,000 - $20,000+
my $0.02, take it for what its worth...
-Noah
Cheapest yet most affordable...this all depends on what you consider cheap and affordable?
Here is an easy/simple breakdown and for starters chew on this: all coilovers will wear down more rapidly than any strut combo. All coilovers need servicing in time. Now to the fun stuff!
Cheaper/Budget Coilovers-
BC, Tein (Basic), Stance, HKS, Megan Racing, Older Cusco (yes I know, crazy huh...but this has been fixed with the Zero2E), etc...These are all NOT street coilovers. How can i say such stupid things? Its simple, these are all japanese spec coilovers, much stiffer valving and springs rates, typically are also only single adjustable (compresson/rebound all in one), and the best part ARE NOT rebuildable. so when you spend your $800-$1200 on these and they blow out WHICH THEY WILL, you now have yourself a paperweight...some call it scrap metal as well. Isn't it odd how you see in the classifieds "almost new coilovers for cheap, only used 3,000 miles" hmmm I wonder why that is, oh yeah see above. But with that being said, on a given track setup and track setup only....these lower end "budget" coilovers as some like to call them serve a decent function and offer a great value for its given function.
Typical price range: $800 - $1,500
Daily Driver Coilovers-
at min a KW V3 or AST 4200's. But why? b/c they are European style coilovers with softer valving, softer springs rates, isolated compression/rebound controls, and REBUILD-ABLE. But what does this mean? It means it will work good on our f-ed up cali roads and when they get beat up and wear out or blow out a seal, you didnt just **** away money on a paper weight b/c you can secure your investment by repairing them. The ability to fine tune adjustability is key to comfort and longevity of the product. These likewise are not the best track setup, as they aren't tailored to it but give a decent adjust-ability range for its given multi-use purpose that one uses them for.
Typical price range: $2,000 - $3,000
Race Coilovers-
KW, AST, Ohlins, JRZ, Moton, Penske, etc...these are in there own league and most on this board or any others don't have them or will ever own them. Why? B/c the folks who go this route typically are not the ones on a forum board asking whats the best way to spend at min $10k of there money, and the best part, thats just for the shock. They know what they want and have spoken to the proper professionals for there chosen path.
Typical price range: $6,000 - $20,000+
my $0.02, take it for what its worth...
-Noah
Last edited by LICmotorsports; 10-21-2010 at 06:50 PM.
#42
+1 for Noah. I've been debating hard on either coils or new struts for a couple months now since my stock struts are finally going out from my Cobb springs.
D-specs it is.
Thanks sir!
D-specs it is.
Thanks sir!
#44
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Posts: 1,288
From: San Jose, CA
Car Info: 05 18g LGT Wagon | Former 08 LGT Spec.B
When you go with cheaper coilovers, except a harsh and/or bouncy ride, and more frequent rebuilds. Struts/springs last longer than coilovers. Coilover rebuilds can cost anywhere from $75-$150 per corner, so you won't be saving money if you have to rebuild every year.
If you are looking for height adjustability, expect to pay 600-1000 for cheapest possible usable coils. You could probly find used BC Racing or Tein coils. 1000-1500 are the more comfortable DD coilovers.
If you have springs already, you could also just look for springs that will lower your car more. There are some spring/strut setups that will outperform cheaper coilovers.
OP- You'll get a better answer if you state your goals and your budget.
If you are looking for height adjustability, expect to pay 600-1000 for cheapest possible usable coils. You could probly find used BC Racing or Tein coils. 1000-1500 are the more comfortable DD coilovers.
If you have springs already, you could also just look for springs that will lower your car more. There are some spring/strut setups that will outperform cheaper coilovers.
OP- You'll get a better answer if you state your goals and your budget.
#45
my $.02
I have BC ER co's on my car. I drove from Illinois to here with them. They are my daily drivers. I have raced at Thunderhill with them. The only issue I have had is the clamp holding the external resevoir on the roadside rear was "shifting" and rubbing against the wheel. I am testing to see if it has now been remedied with some Loctite green under the clamp.
I know they are not AMAZING coilovers, but I would not say the are crap just because I only paid $1500.00.
caveat lector autem caveat emptor
I have BC ER co's on my car. I drove from Illinois to here with them. They are my daily drivers. I have raced at Thunderhill with them. The only issue I have had is the clamp holding the external resevoir on the roadside rear was "shifting" and rubbing against the wheel. I am testing to see if it has now been remedied with some Loctite green under the clamp.
I know they are not AMAZING coilovers, but I would not say the are crap just because I only paid $1500.00.
caveat lector autem caveat emptor