woocabin

iTrader: (13)

Exactly as title says,

It's the worst when I am exiting a freeway and on the offramp, brake for the light. If I brake really lightly for the longer distance, it's much less and at 5mph to 0mph, it makes your head bobble as if the rotors are different thicknesses on different parts of it.

I'm assuming replacing the rotors will fix it, but was wondering if it could possibly be a brake pad issue? I'm at 38k miles and have never changed brakes nor rotors. I do brake hard at times so brakes probably need to go but is this a rotor issue or brake issue?

TIA!
Happy July 4th weekend!
Kevin

Subie*Chickie12

usually the vibes are from rotors being warped or having grooves. Have you tried having a shop turn them yet? If they turn the rotors they will want to change the pads because the unusual wear will transfer from rotor to pad and pad to rotor. Try turning them. I had the same problem in my Taurus and a turn and brake pad change was all I needed. And sometimes its only one set of pads/rotors.

johndabrit

iTrader: (31)

you are on oem brakes right? Don't turn the rotors. Spend a bit more and replace them with quality oem parts. Replace the rotors, the pads, make sure the hardware kit is good, make sure to break them in correctly. Make sure to clean off the rotor with brake cleaner before assembling. Might also be a good idea to give the brakes a good bleed after changing the fluid. If you are doing it on a budget, at least replace rotors and pads and clean everything really well.

I had the same issue. At that point I chose to go with a stage II stoptech brake kit. Love it.

Subie*Chickie12

Ahh I didn't even think that he might have OEM parts I'm special

slugrx

iTrader: (12)

Rotors are probably warped, get new rotors and pads and it should fix it

woocabin

iTrader: (13)

kk sounds good, thanks guys!

Yes I have OEM rotors and pads. Any affordable rotors/brakes you guys recommend or should I stick with stock? I did the brake fluid about 5k ago so I think that should be fine.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Buy some.centric premiums. Same as stoptechs. Also check your lower control arm bushings. That's what's causing my vibrations.

willow

iTrader: (3)

Rotors. If you are on budget and don't track, rotors from autozone will do just fine. Duralast rotors from autozone going strong for three yrs now and lots life left in them. I think they came with warranty for complete exchange if premature wear occur. Honestly, I think premium rotors wouldn't make too much difference in performance for non-BBK.

slugrx

iTrader: (12)

You just missed a vendor had a brake special last month...I've got stoptech rotors and hawk pads that I got from lic last year in a special

slugrx

iTrader: (12)

I went from oem rotors/pads to stoptech slotted replacements and hawk pads and it is way better...haven't done an exact measurement but they grab really hard when needed and never fade (I drive highway 17 almost daily so its high speed braking), brake dusts like crazy though

STi-owns-evo

iTrader: (4)

Almost 100% sure it's not rotor warp, because rotor warp just doesn't happen. Try bedding in your brakes again. Most likely when you were hard on your brakes, your rotors at one point came to a dead stop before they cooled down, resulting in uneven pad deposits. By bedding your brakes in again, it can possibly remove these deposits.

Stop Tech has great reads about brakes if you want more info.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml

Specifically about the rotor warp myth: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

That was my thought too. You gotta run pretty hard to get a true warp.
But the symptoms seem right.




If you're gonna upgrade your brakes don't cheap out. I did the Centric upgrade and I DESTROYED the front rotors. The rears have held up fine. Some folks have had awesome luck with them.

I've got a brand spankin new set of hawk pads at home somewhere. I bought them but I'm switching to LGT brakes.

My suggestion is to get new lines while you're in there. So SS lines, 4 rotors, 2 sets of pads. I think it was GST that was doing a brake special so they might be able to hook you up for the whole set up. Centric has been fine for most people so go for it. If you want to spend a little more I'd suggest getting DBA's for the fronts.

And you'll need new fluid too.




Anyone reading this... I'll be selling all my brake stuff soon.
Full set stock rotors.
DBA front rotors.
Centric rear rotors.
Brand new Hawks for the front.
2 sets of rear hawks with tons of meat on them.
Full set of calipers.

LICmotorsports

iTrader: (10)

we stock centric (blank) and stoptech (slotted) rotors as well as stoptech sp pads...we have them for every make/model in stock always.

Links to them in our store (use filtering to if you wish to refine it)
Stoptech: http://www.licmotorsports.com/store/282%2C278
Centric: http://www.licmotorsports.com/store/282%2C402

-Noah

woocabin

iTrader: (13)

Can I replace just the front rotors or do I have to replace all 4? I'm almost positive its the front driver side rotor. Would the grip of the brakes be uneven if I only replaced the front two? Do i have to do brakes as well or doing just rotors okay?

LICmotorsports

iTrader: (10)

you want to do pads and rotors. Using used pads with new rotors is never recommended

you can do just one end (front or back), ideally you want to stick with same compound pads though if you do that route.

-Noah