Brake Pad Change ?
#1
Brake Pad Change ?
This is a simple ?..But I know the common answer is to change both Rotor (resurface or new) and Pads at the same time..
But can we change just the pads if the rotors are not warped yet? Just use proper imbedding procedure with the new pads?
Has anyone changed just the pads without any vibration issues?
Im not cheaping out, I just heard stories of Subaru dealers that change out the Pads only.
But can we change just the pads if the rotors are not warped yet? Just use proper imbedding procedure with the new pads?
Has anyone changed just the pads without any vibration issues?
Im not cheaping out, I just heard stories of Subaru dealers that change out the Pads only.
#2
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You don't have to replace rotors unless they are out of spec or warped. It's very typical on almost any car to replace pads and resurface rotors. Pads and rotors wear at different rates. Why would you replace a perfectly good rotor?
#3
exactly what i was thinking, im at 30% with the pads, im thinking before the sensors kick in or do any damage to the rotors i can "save" the rotors and embedd them properly..
#4
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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Warping can happen at any time, has nothing to do with the pads being worn. If your existing pads are installed correctly, you will hear the tangs squeal long before the pads are scoring the rotors.
#5
previously known as wrxBRAH
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This is a simple ?..But I know the common answer is to change both Rotor (resurface or new) and Pads at the same time..
But can we change just the pads if the rotors are not warped yet? Just use proper imbedding procedure with the new pads?
Has anyone changed just the pads without any vibration issues?
Im not cheaping out, I just heard stories of Subaru dealers that change out the Pads only.
But can we change just the pads if the rotors are not warped yet? Just use proper imbedding procedure with the new pads?
Has anyone changed just the pads without any vibration issues?
Im not cheaping out, I just heard stories of Subaru dealers that change out the Pads only.
Its only 30-40$ extra. Get them resurfaced.
#6
Yes warping rotors with pads is just a myth, usually the case is just uneven pad displacement. If your rotors are still within spec and have life on them, and do not look all chrome glossy/mirror finish like; then you can throw on a new set of pads with fresh life. Just make sure to bed them in properly and a little harder this time.
#8
Yes warping rotors with pads is just a myth, usually the case is just uneven pad displacement. If your rotors are still within spec and have life on them, and do not look all chrome glossy/mirror finish like; then you can throw on a new set of pads with fresh life. Just make sure to bed them in properly and a little harder this time.
#9
#10
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here's my experience:
- bought the 06WRX new and ran all stock for awhile
- switched pads to Ferodo DS2500, which are slightly more abrasive than stock pads; and I got them bedded within a few days, no problem. Did a few track days on them.
- went through 3 sets of front and 2 sets of rear DS2500's, never resurfacing... although as each pair was replaced, it took longer to rebed and the rotors started getting shiny. Did more track days on them.
- switched to StopTech SP's, and couldn't get them to bed properly, rotors were shiny by now, but still minimum spec
- swapped out rotors and kept the SP's and they bedded just fine (although it took a week or so for them to grind evenly due to the concentric unevenness of the old rotors)
Read this:
Essex - Learning Center - Know Brakes 2: Swapping Between Street and Race Brake Pads
Note that the point is that you need to scrub OFF the previous pad material before you put on the next one as other pad deposits can interfere with your new pad getting bed in.
From what I've seen, turning rotors does these things: removes pad material, makes the surface of the rotor even, and scuffs the surface to make it non-shiny and better for bed in.
If you're replacing pads with the same pad, and the rotor is still pretty even and not shiny, then you can probably skip the resurface... or (someone told me to try a) wirehead drill brush and scrub the surface before putting the new pads on.
- bought the 06WRX new and ran all stock for awhile
- switched pads to Ferodo DS2500, which are slightly more abrasive than stock pads; and I got them bedded within a few days, no problem. Did a few track days on them.
- went through 3 sets of front and 2 sets of rear DS2500's, never resurfacing... although as each pair was replaced, it took longer to rebed and the rotors started getting shiny. Did more track days on them.
- switched to StopTech SP's, and couldn't get them to bed properly, rotors were shiny by now, but still minimum spec
- swapped out rotors and kept the SP's and they bedded just fine (although it took a week or so for them to grind evenly due to the concentric unevenness of the old rotors)
Read this:
Essex - Learning Center - Know Brakes 2: Swapping Between Street and Race Brake Pads
Note that the point is that you need to scrub OFF the previous pad material before you put on the next one as other pad deposits can interfere with your new pad getting bed in.
From what I've seen, turning rotors does these things: removes pad material, makes the surface of the rotor even, and scuffs the surface to make it non-shiny and better for bed in.
If you're replacing pads with the same pad, and the rotor is still pretty even and not shiny, then you can probably skip the resurface... or (someone told me to try a) wirehead drill brush and scrub the surface before putting the new pads on.
Last edited by chimchimm5; 11-16-2011 at 12:10 PM.
#11
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Don't ever use a wire brush on your rotors. Ever. It's an awful thing to do.
I'm of the opinion that a turning is NOT needed when swapping pads. I won't get into it, but you can Google the reasons why.
Things you need to check when replacing pads... rotor thickness and runout. Don't know what runout is? Google the heck out of it. Do your rotors meet these requirements? Just put on some new pads.
Don't ever use a super abrasive item like a wire brush on your rotors. At best you use a plastic brush embedded with an abrasive material and lightly scrub the surface of the rotor. Takes care of what you need it to while not damaging the surface.
The advice on this board ranges from decent to whacky. Research, but know that when you do you can't rely on one source.
Yeah...
I'm of the opinion that a turning is NOT needed when swapping pads. I won't get into it, but you can Google the reasons why.
Things you need to check when replacing pads... rotor thickness and runout. Don't know what runout is? Google the heck out of it. Do your rotors meet these requirements? Just put on some new pads.
Don't ever use a super abrasive item like a wire brush on your rotors. At best you use a plastic brush embedded with an abrasive material and lightly scrub the surface of the rotor. Takes care of what you need it to while not damaging the surface.
The advice on this board ranges from decent to whacky. Research, but know that when you do you can't rely on one source.
Yeah...
#12
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If its the same pad compound and the rotors are in good shape you shouldn't have any issues with just a pad swap. It you're changing to a different pad you should remove the old pad deposits first.
-- Ed
-- Ed
#13
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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From: Nor Cal SJ
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That's what I typically do. I tend to stay with the same pads once I find one I like, currently Stoptech SPs, and as long as the rotors have plenty left and look OK, I don't resurface. If I switch to a different pad, if the rotors are older, I will just buy new ones. If they have enough meat left, I will just resurface them.
Last edited by 04GG; 11-16-2011 at 10:13 AM.
#14
Sorry to thread jack but I was wondering how do you know when your brake pads need to be replaced without visually inspecting it? My pads only have about 9k miles on them and they squeal like crazy when I brake in reverse going down hill.