best headlight anti-cloud cleaner/polisher?
11-29-2012, 05:55 PM
#1
03.23.67 - 06.14.13
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best headlight anti-cloud cleaner/polisher?
after 9 years with my STi, the headlights cloud up every 3-4 months.
i have tried the fast and cheapie thingees.
havent tried the ones that uses a drill.
which ones have worked out the best for you? and how long did it last?
thanks...
i have tried the fast and cheapie thingees.
havent tried the ones that uses a drill.
which ones have worked out the best for you? and how long did it last?
thanks...
11-29-2012, 06:00 PM
#2
quite literly just used one of the kits (3m kit i think) it required a drill and sanding. It worked amazingly. ive used the same kit before on my gf's outback and it did a great job and now 2 years later is still clear. I just did my 06 wrx last weekend and the result was awesome. heres the link to the kit. Amazon.com: 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System: Automotive
11-29-2012, 07:21 PM
#6
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Location: Milpitas
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Wipe new also works well once you've sanded away the oxidation. But on one of my headlights I got this weird bunch of small cracks all over the top of the lens. 
don't think it was from the wipe new though.
don't think it was from the wipe new though.
11-29-2012, 07:36 PM
#7
- Reserved for long explanation later -
The history:
Automotive headlights used to be molded out of glass. The automotive industry advanced towards newer technologies that were lighter and more aerodynamic and easier and cheaper to mold. Lexan Polycarbonate resin Thermoplastics were chosen to be the replacement material for front facing headlight lenses because rather than shatter like glass, the material flexes and deflects oncoming debris.
What is happening:
Headlight lens are made of Polycarbonate. The material is actually porous on the surface that expands ever so slightly when it is exposed to heat. During the process of expansion and contraption, dirt particles and the debris can be caught in the pores over time. Polycarbonate, being a hydrocarbon, is prone to oxidation and discoloration over time caused by open exposure to heat and ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun and other environmental properties. The heat from light bulbs and HID's will also contribute to the increase deterioration. The headlight lens will start to yellow/brown, have clear coat failure spots, sun spotting, and overtime if not tended to, miniature cracking to decomposition. In short, the "factory" clear coat UV protective sealant/paint layer that had came on the headlight is now slowly thinning out, deteriorating and failing (some areas more quickly than others).
How to fix it:
In order to properly restore headlight lenses, you must first inspect the the pair of lens in question and decide the level of severity the defects are.
There are are light to aggressive repairs. Keep in mind that you only have a limited amount of polycarbonate plastic to work with. Depending on the aggressiveness level of your correction procedure, and how amateur or professional your techniques are, you may have a lot to work with or soon to be very little.
The basic restoration processes known to the general is what's consisted of a polish and seal. This will only correct fairly new to mildly oxidized lens. The lens is cleaned off and polished with a series of liquid compounds/polishes to abrade the top surface clear coat layer in order to return a transparent clear finish. Then it is directed that you apply any type of wax to sealant on the surface to temporarily restore a critically thin layer of UV protect-ant. This method usually will not last longer than 2-6 months depending on the frequency that the person reapply's the sealant. If you want to maximize results this method, you will have to reapply sealant after every car wash (assuming that you wash your car frequently and routinely), if not then at least once every month.
The more "long-term" method consists of using #### digit fine grit wet sanding paper/blocks to fully sand off the surface/remaining layer of UV coat and the layer of polycarbonate that has been discolored. If your headlights are all fully hazed and yellow, then most likely the chances are that all the factory UV clear is completely gone.
Depending on the severity of the lens, you start with the more aggressive grit and work down to the finer grit by properly and evenly sanding the whole lens, at the same time keeping in mind of all the grooves and contours in the shape. Clean the lens off then spray on a new layer of high quality UV protective clear coat. You now have a new coat of factory UV protective clear.
The final word:
There is no PERMANENT method of headlight restoration, there can only be lengthened and long-term periods of temporary fixes. The cause is straight forward, and it is because of the nature of the materials and how they react being exposed to the environment. The method you choose for correction will determine how much longer you will have to hold out to do the same thing again next time when the problem arises.
All those DIY kits out there are all the same and will not really be any greater than the other, although their prices do vary. It all depends on what the company decides to charges for their materials. I would only recommend you use automotive purpose products as part of your correction regiment and not alternative and unconventional house hold products leading anywhere from toothpaste, baking soda, carbonated sodas, fruits, and urine.
The history:
Automotive headlights used to be molded out of glass. The automotive industry advanced towards newer technologies that were lighter and more aerodynamic and easier and cheaper to mold. Lexan Polycarbonate resin Thermoplastics were chosen to be the replacement material for front facing headlight lenses because rather than shatter like glass, the material flexes and deflects oncoming debris.
What is happening:
Headlight lens are made of Polycarbonate. The material is actually porous on the surface that expands ever so slightly when it is exposed to heat. During the process of expansion and contraption, dirt particles and the debris can be caught in the pores over time. Polycarbonate, being a hydrocarbon, is prone to oxidation and discoloration over time caused by open exposure to heat and ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun and other environmental properties. The heat from light bulbs and HID's will also contribute to the increase deterioration. The headlight lens will start to yellow/brown, have clear coat failure spots, sun spotting, and overtime if not tended to, miniature cracking to decomposition. In short, the "factory" clear coat UV protective sealant/paint layer that had came on the headlight is now slowly thinning out, deteriorating and failing (some areas more quickly than others).
How to fix it:
In order to properly restore headlight lenses, you must first inspect the the pair of lens in question and decide the level of severity the defects are.
There are are light to aggressive repairs. Keep in mind that you only have a limited amount of polycarbonate plastic to work with. Depending on the aggressiveness level of your correction procedure, and how amateur or professional your techniques are, you may have a lot to work with or soon to be very little.
The basic restoration processes known to the general is what's consisted of a polish and seal. This will only correct fairly new to mildly oxidized lens. The lens is cleaned off and polished with a series of liquid compounds/polishes to abrade the top surface clear coat layer in order to return a transparent clear finish. Then it is directed that you apply any type of wax to sealant on the surface to temporarily restore a critically thin layer of UV protect-ant. This method usually will not last longer than 2-6 months depending on the frequency that the person reapply's the sealant. If you want to maximize results this method, you will have to reapply sealant after every car wash (assuming that you wash your car frequently and routinely), if not then at least once every month.
The more "long-term" method consists of using #### digit fine grit wet sanding paper/blocks to fully sand off the surface/remaining layer of UV coat and the layer of polycarbonate that has been discolored. If your headlights are all fully hazed and yellow, then most likely the chances are that all the factory UV clear is completely gone.
Depending on the severity of the lens, you start with the more aggressive grit and work down to the finer grit by properly and evenly sanding the whole lens, at the same time keeping in mind of all the grooves and contours in the shape. Clean the lens off then spray on a new layer of high quality UV protective clear coat. You now have a new coat of factory UV protective clear.
The final word:
There is no PERMANENT method of headlight restoration, there can only be lengthened and long-term periods of temporary fixes. The cause is straight forward, and it is because of the nature of the materials and how they react being exposed to the environment. The method you choose for correction will determine how much longer you will have to hold out to do the same thing again next time when the problem arises.
All those DIY kits out there are all the same and will not really be any greater than the other, although their prices do vary. It all depends on what the company decides to charges for their materials. I would only recommend you use automotive purpose products as part of your correction regiment and not alternative and unconventional house hold products leading anywhere from toothpaste, baking soda, carbonated sodas, fruits, and urine.
Last edited by pho_shizzle; 11-29-2012 at 10:55 PM.
11-29-2012, 08:06 PM
#8
toothpaste?
http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Headlights
http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Headlights
11-29-2012, 08:36 PM
#9
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
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Wetsanding/compounding/polishing is all good and dandy. That's really not the main issue though. The main issue is that you guys aren't putting any protection on the lens. That's why it reoxidizes again. After you finish correcting the lenses, you need to reseal the lens with something that has UV protection. Yes, you can use sealants or waxes, but also remember that plastic is different than clearcoat.
What do I use? I dunno. I have glass headlights. :P
What do I use? I dunno. I have glass headlights. :P
11-29-2012, 10:55 PM
#12
11-30-2012, 12:15 AM
#13
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
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- Reserved for long explanation later -
The basic restoration processes known to the general is what's consisted of a polish and seal. This will only correct fairly new to mildly oxidized lens. The lens is cleaned off and polished with a series of liquid compounds/polishes to abrade the top surface clear coat layer in order to return a transparent clear finish. Then it is directed that you apply any type of wax to sealant on the surface to temporarily restore a critically thin layer of UV protect-ant. This method usually will not last longer than 2-6 months depending on the frequency that the person reapply's the sealant. If you want to maximize results this method, you will have to reapply sealant after every car wash (assuming that you wash your car frequently and routinely), if not then at least once every month.
The basic restoration processes known to the general is what's consisted of a polish and seal. This will only correct fairly new to mildly oxidized lens. The lens is cleaned off and polished with a series of liquid compounds/polishes to abrade the top surface clear coat layer in order to return a transparent clear finish. Then it is directed that you apply any type of wax to sealant on the surface to temporarily restore a critically thin layer of UV protect-ant. This method usually will not last longer than 2-6 months depending on the frequency that the person reapply's the sealant. If you want to maximize results this method, you will have to reapply sealant after every car wash (assuming that you wash your car frequently and routinely), if not then at least once every month.
Wax and sealants are a short term solution. 2-6, in my opinion, is a stretch. I feel like it is less than that. With that said, I COMPLETELY agree with you that if you want to maintain the look of your headlights using waxes or sealants (and I would choose sealants), you should make an effort to apply wax or sealant on a regular basis, though wax and sealants are not really designed for headlights.
Like I mentioned earlier, the UV coating on your headlights is different than the UV protection in your paint/clearcoat. If I remember correctly, the UV coating in your headlights is higher than in your paint, but don't quote me on that.
While you guys are at it, considering buying a small tube of rubbing compound (it's a few dollars). It's much easier to remove the beginning stage of oxidation than it is to remove full blown oxidation. In early stages, you could easily remove that stuff by hand. In the advance stages, you'll probably need to wet-sand and follow with one of those headlight kits or a polisher.
11-30-2012, 12:37 AM
#14
Though I like the explanation you provided, I will have to respectfully disagree with the wax and sealant statement, though there is some truth behind it.
Wax and sealants are a short term solution. 2-6, in my opinion, is a stretch. I feel like it is less than that. With that said, I COMPLETELY agree with you that if you want to maintain the look of your headlights using waxes or sealants (and I would choose sealants), you should make an effort to apply wax or sealant on a regular basis, though wax and sealants are not really designed for headlights.
Like I mentioned earlier, the UV coating on your headlights is different than the UV protection in your paint/clearcoat. If I remember correctly, the UV coating in your headlights is higher than in your paint, but don't quote me on that.
While you guys are at it, considering buying a small tube of rubbing compound (it's a few dollars). It's much easier to remove the beginning stage of oxidation than it is to remove full blown oxidation. In early stages, you could easily remove that stuff by hand. In the advance stages, you'll probably need to wet-sand and follow with one of those headlight kits or a polisher.
Wax and sealants are a short term solution. 2-6, in my opinion, is a stretch. I feel like it is less than that. With that said, I COMPLETELY agree with you that if you want to maintain the look of your headlights using waxes or sealants (and I would choose sealants), you should make an effort to apply wax or sealant on a regular basis, though wax and sealants are not really designed for headlights.
Like I mentioned earlier, the UV coating on your headlights is different than the UV protection in your paint/clearcoat. If I remember correctly, the UV coating in your headlights is higher than in your paint, but don't quote me on that.
While you guys are at it, considering buying a small tube of rubbing compound (it's a few dollars). It's much easier to remove the beginning stage of oxidation than it is to remove full blown oxidation. In early stages, you could easily remove that stuff by hand. In the advance stages, you'll probably need to wet-sand and follow with one of those headlight kits or a polisher.
Now you mention that waxes and sealants aren't typically made for headlights, or plastic. Sure....Paint sealants and waxes aren't ideally made for headlight exposure, albeit they will work just not as effectively because of the variation of the bonding procedures in the chemical/materials. There are other sealants on the market that are not for paint, but ideal for your plastic exposed surfaces such as Wolfgangs Clear Surface Sealant designed to go on clear plastic surfaces such as those on clear plastic protective films to headlights. That and other such Dedicated plastic LSP's.
There has been several methods that have been discovered in the Automotive paint care community to work. Some of those include aerosol spray on clearcoats, hand applied clear coats, to pint and mixed professionally sprayed clear coats.
Last edited by pho_shizzle; 11-30-2012 at 12:39 AM.
11-30-2012, 02:01 AM
#15
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
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I apologize that you had to misunderstand my statement. The time period all depends on how often the headlights on the vehicle is being exposed to the elements and heat. If the owner were to garage their car, have a safe parking spot at work, only drive their cars on the weekend and other suitable environments were mentioned, then it would most definitely extend and maximize their outcome of that procedure. The time frame will not, however, be realistic for a daily commuter.
Now you mention that waxes and sealants aren't typically made for headlights, or plastic. Sure....Paint sealants and waxes aren't ideally made for headlight exposure, albeit they will work just not as effectively because of the variation of the bonding procedures in the chemical/materials. There are other sealants on the market that are not for paint, but ideal for your plastic exposed surfaces such as Wolfgangs Clear Surface Sealant designed to go on clear plastic surfaces such as those on clear plastic protective films to headlights. That and other such Dedicated plastic LSP's.
There has been several methods that have been discovered in the Automotive paint care community to work. Some of those include aerosol spray on clearcoats, hand applied clear coats, to pint and mixed professionally sprayed clear coats.
Now you mention that waxes and sealants aren't typically made for headlights, or plastic. Sure....Paint sealants and waxes aren't ideally made for headlight exposure, albeit they will work just not as effectively because of the variation of the bonding procedures in the chemical/materials. There are other sealants on the market that are not for paint, but ideal for your plastic exposed surfaces such as Wolfgangs Clear Surface Sealant designed to go on clear plastic surfaces such as those on clear plastic protective films to headlights. That and other such Dedicated plastic LSP's.
There has been several methods that have been discovered in the Automotive paint care community to work. Some of those include aerosol spray on clearcoats, hand applied clear coats, to pint and mixed professionally sprayed clear coats.
As for the sealant, I agree also. I am not a follower in Wolfgang products, but do agree that there are sealants and coatings designed for plastics. I certainly think that plastic/trim sealants and coatings needs to be specified for other thread readers as sealants and waxes are most often associated with paint. That is... you are not likely to find this headlight/plastic specific sealant at your local Walmart.
Last edited by darkonion; 11-30-2012 at 02:04 AM.