I just changed from a penzoil? to a filter from Pho Shizzle and 5w40 rotella my oil pressure is at a steady 80-90 now.

 

There are a couple of physical characteristics I forgot to include/mention. I guess this will be as good as the next oil thread to state it in.


There is a difference in construction of the seal ring/gasket on the filters. The P style lip gasket will be more reliable in terms of closing the gap properly and not spinning out and off of the oil filter assembly it self. others are just placed on with very minimal material holding it on, so when you are twisting it tight, it can get out of alignment........... and possibly lead to leak issues because the gap is not properly closed.

Make sure you don't use an oversized oil filter with a larger overall diameter, our oil filters are designed to be palm size for a reason. The bigger the oil filter, the larger the reservoir of oil is kept in there. And the longer it takes to filter and recirculate into your motor (especially at dry start up, give that a thought). Using over sized filters can also lead to premature installation such as the gasket ring not properly meeting the oil filter plate and can cause premature leaks.

In terms of the adhesive used with the felt/carboard like pleats in the filter instead of metal bases. Fram testifies that the adhesive stands up to high temperature circulations and are just as strong as the metal counterparts. Just don't use it over its general life span. Although it may look cheaper.....should stand up to filtering just as well. But the physical construction will return bias opinions regardless.


Here is a list of filters for our cars, I took it from WolfPlayer on iwsti:


The rest of the world still uses the black TOKYO ROKI CO.,LTD filters when I was in Australia.



P.S. Annnnnnnnnnnd Using SYNTHETIC oil does NOT mean you can wait longer inbetween your oil change intervals.

 

xoxoxooxoxox

 

I use k&n. Originally I used the high end one but now I'm using the new one which apparently is the exact same but a bunch cheaper and doesn't gave the wrench off spot. Amazon I believe the last time was 5 bucks a piece shipped.

 

Just curious is purolator linked off from fram? I heard it was.. Now im confused.. Lol

 

I used WIX for years on my other cars and never had an issue until I had the gasket come off of one and stick to the block (yes, it was lubed before installation). I switched back to OEM filters and have had zero issues with them either on my last 4 cars. I too have tried the Pho Shizzle filters and I honestly don't notice a difference, but I didn't get any crush washers...

The question was properly answered already by Pho though - keep an eye on the level, change at a normal interval, and you will be fine. My previous cars had 220K and 208K when I sold them and both ran great. The WRX has 120K and runs great too.

 

There was a separate group buy for that one. hahaa

 

I'm currently rocking a K&N filter with Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Not pleased with my results though. I seem to be loosing oil during hard driving (Auto-X) .

I got the K&N because of the wrench off hex which is convenient. But if it's the reason why my oil is going missing, it's no good.

The next change will most likely be an OEM filter with more Mobil 1 oil. (60k service so it's sorta out of my hands.) If I'm still noticing issues, I'm going to try some Rotella.

 

The wix and denso filters have been super affordable and work great, that I bought a case of then

 

My personal guess is you're losing oil because it is Mobil1 I used it at first on the WRX and it went through it like nobody's business. Won't be using it again on this car. I didn't like the Rotella either, but at least it lasted.

 

You need to use some thicker oil for California boy..............

 

I agree with everything else you said, but this is nonsense. The oil filter is only ever empty ONCE, and that's when you remove it from it's packaging before you pre-fill it with oil and install it on the car. After you start the car for the first time the filter will fill up all the way, and it will never have air in it again until you remove it from the car.

I won't even presume to know what "premature installation" is, I didn't even know that could be a...thing. If the gasket seats square on the large flat space and seals flat the first time, it should never be an issue.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
As per the August 2003 TECH TIPS which introduced the new smaller OEM filter:

All MY03 and MY04 turbocharged vehicles should use the smaller 080 filters.

All N/A 4cylinders should still use 060 filters.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

The 080 filter has a 68mm diameter, 2 7/16" tall.
The 060 filter has an 80mm diameter, 2 3/4" tall.

The reason for the change? could be:
1. new manufacturer
2. smaller filter is marginally further from the header heat shields which would make it absorb a little less heat from there.

I don't know what the real reason for the switch is, but I run an oversize filter with some aluminum foil around it. I plan to take some measurements with an infrared thermometer of the oil filter after some hot runs with my current filter and my next one (i'll buy an OEM one for testing purposes)

Also, get a Fumoto oil drain valve and don't get dirty changing your oil:
http://www.scoobymods.com/mods/impre...drainvalve.php

 

I had a Fumoto on two of my Integras. You still have to open it and the oil comes out just as fast, so aside from not needing crush washers or a wrench, it was pretty much the same. You can sort of control the rate with the Fumoto, but then it just drains slower. Only really saves a minute or two, but you will never drop that damn drain plug again lol.

 

True. But you would be amazed at the population of people who have never even HEARD of pre-filling their oil filters. Or the population that just does not include pre-filling the oil filter before installation. Im one of those people that never pre-fill and I know 99.9% of the dealerships and all other quick lube tech places never follow that practice either. But it will give you that extra peace of mind and confidence for your vehicle to start up and start recirculating oil.


Premature installation.......come on Gleb, anything can be a thing. Of a thing. Or a thing. As I mentioned early on about the seal, the "P" style gaskets are the most promising in the generations of oil filter design since part of it is seated within the open sided trench of the filter. If the seal is of crappy construction, then anything can go wrong. A millimeter gap can still lead to oil loss/leak. Other than that, it can be anything along side user installation. The imagination for these types of scenarios can go far.

As for the Tech update or whichever, Im sure it speaks of OEM stock spec parts retaining to the whole engine. If you made modifications to your exhaust manifold and other things around it, then these technical announcements may or may not be directed towards your vehicle.


Yes thats a fact. And also because the drain hole on the Fumoto is smaller than the original diameter of the oil plug bolt..... you will actually have more old oil left over inside the oil pan. Theres no way to get it out unless you tilt your vehicle towards the direction of the opening of the plug on the oil pan at an extreme. I can imagine getting a very small diameter tube and siphoning the rest out.

 

Just sayin' your reasons for not running an over-size filter are kinda moot. I like the big filter because I like the little bit of extra oil capacity, it's easier to unscrew it/get a grip on it, and they are cheap and available at every auto parts store. I have an extra WIX at home and an extra Purolator, i'll take some pictures of them next to each other and compare the seals when I get home. I still haven't heard of any consistently reported issues with oil filter seals. I believe the most common issue is that people remove the old filter but the gasket stays stuck to the motor and they install another filter with a new gasket on top of it, which seals very poorly between two rubber surfaces and leaks a lot.

I've measured how much oil the fumoto valve traps in my OEM wrx oil pan, and it was not even enough to fill up a Blackstone oil analysis tube half way. I bet more volume than that is stuck to the walls of the entire oil system, so you're really only changing like 95-98% of the oil ANYWAY. If you're changing your oil warm (which keeps the "stuff" in the oil from settling to the bottom of the pan, and makes the oil drain faster), it shouldn't be an issue. I did start to jack the car up on one side at the end of the drain to get those extra drops out of there, but everyone looks at you like you're an idiot when you do this. lol

I could see a large piece of metal getting stuck inside, but if you have a chunk of metal that's too big to fit through the fumoto valve then you have serious engine problems and the valve is your last concern.