04caliwrx

iTrader: (6)

I love alpine so anything from them is good! I rock the same old school alpine i got over 10 years ago when in highschool

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Alpine these days isn't as good..

DerekB707

iTrader: (21)

Will try a better battery if I get dimming problems, would probably try a upgraded alternator before going to a secondary battery. Didn't know that about the optimas, always heard decent things about them.

Thanks, this is good to hear. I had planned on running 4 gauge to the Sub amp, do you really think I need to run this gauge of wire to the 4x100? I was originally planning on running 8 gauge. I don't mind running thicker if it is really beneficial.

Yeah, I remember back in the 90's, alternators like this were almost $300. I'll probably put the system in and then put a new battery and then a new alternator depending on how the car acts, lol.

I would miss my bluetooth input using older decks, I like being able to stream pandora wirelessly to my head unit. I have a old school alpine in my garage that will probably never get used again, still works perfect though.

wilde

iTrader: (2)

It doesn't hurt too. It's not too much thicker and gives you an option incase you might want a bigger 4 channel. That's it's if you don't like this one.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Run the biggest wire you can to a distribution block then go from there but I would recommend running 4 to everything. From other friends getting newer optima's I haven't heard similar performance, I get 14.1-14.8V from mine while others get the lower part and into the 13s. Extra battery with for accessory with a switch would be much easier than to get another alternator, why put more stress on your engine? I just can't see the point of it.

pimpasaurus jr

iTrader: (1)

Adding another battery will put more stress on your alternator, as it has to fight the other electronics that you added to put current into charging that extra battery. Overtime, if you have an overloaded alternator, you will end up with dead batteries. So this will probably do more harm to your system than good. The only reason to add extra batteries that I could see are if you want to play music/videos while your car is off and parked for extended periods of time.

Remember, when your car is running, it is drawing current from the charging system (alternator), if it maxes out, which is easy with our 75 amp alternators, then the battery acts as a buffer and puts out the current necessary. If your battery doesn't stay charged and the voltage drops, the demand for current goes up to maintain the same power levels. More current leads to increased heat and possibly blown fuses, burnt wires or worse yet, fried amps and other electronics.

Here is a good read about why upgrading the alternator makes more sense than adding a battery. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/articles/...and-electrical It is from the alternator manufacturers website, where they are trying to sell alternators, but the information is valid.

An upgraded alternator should not affect your engine if you are using the same size pulley as the stock one.

DerekB707

iTrader: (21)

I agree, also the voltage regulator keeps the charging system from cooking itself which is why having a higher output alternator is safe. i do think a HO alternator is best used with a upgraded or secondary battery, but really don't want to add another battery if I dont have to. I wouldn't mind adding a higher capacity stock location battery though. Thanks for the input.




On another topic,
I received all my 4 gauge wiring today today. I am going to start installing my PPI sedona and components this weekend and will run that amp temporarily till I purchase a 4x100 amp. I still need to source an enclosure for my sub and am thinking either a perfect fit type or a custom from a local shop. I mainly just need more time to work on this. I think I put in 65 hours last week at work which doesn't leave alot of time for hobbying, lol.

nation

iTrader: (17)

finally fixed the stereo in the sti.
kicker in the front/kicker in the rear
earthquake 5-1 amp under drivers seat
elemental design underseat enclosure w/pioneer shallow 10"(it actually sounds insanely good)P
alpine w205 w/nav

i can crank the **** out of the system with zero issues.

DerekB707

iTrader: (21)

Thats good to know, that amp can put out 1000 watts if you had the 5th channel in a 2ohm load, I imagine you're pulling 700 watts from it if that pioneer sub is a single voice coil 4 ohm.

Did you have to order that sub setup or are they available around here?

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Hence why you have it so it only pulls when there's a deficit not constantly charging both. The stereo only pulls from that secondary and since that's what losing power it charges that once your car is on it doesn't need to charge much on the factory location battery. It's just separating the load in my opinion.

Off topic its like dumping it in one chick or two chicks both get the same amount of load in the long run LOL

pimpasaurus jr

iTrader: (1)

But if you are always maxing out your alternator (which is easy to do), you wont be able to charge your factory battery as you will always be drawing from it, causing it to drain until it dies. When you have a second battery, you are just extending the time til they die, but now you are also extending the time to charge both. So you will probably just end up with two dead batteries instead of one.

If you have two batteries in your car and are running with the stock Subaru alternator, I hope that you put your batteries on chargers when you park at night or run your car with the stereo off so you could charge the batteries.

Here is a link to Charging System Basics

WRXBOOST10

iTrader: (12)

Don't waste ur money on a high amp alternator. Just get a 5 farad stinger cap.
Stock alternator, stock battery, over 1000watts, 0 gauge wires...No dimming lights what so ever.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Cap's only do so much, it's more of a help with consistent power but not within the whole cars electrical system if I can recall.

SkizzDawg

iTrader: (7)

Also if your going to do a large guage wire for power you need to do the same size for ground at the amp and you need to increase the size of the ground at the battery.

It was explained to me years ago that your electrical runs in a circular way and that if you increase the power wire you need to do the same for the ground or the ground becomes a resistance point. it also a good idea to increase the size of the hot going from the alt to the bat and increasing eng grounds.

if you want to stop lights diming you can get micro caps and run them inline with your headlamps. I remember reading articles about this in the early 90s by CA&E and they did a test and did the micro caps at the lights and no dimming.

Im running 2 JL HD amps pushing over 1300 RMS and i hardly get dimming lights and i dont have a cap. In my truck i get dimming lights. the truck doesnt have digital amps. Digital amps vs the typical A/B switching amps draw power differently. Maybe if you dont want your lights to dim as much you should look at getting digital amps if anything for your bass.

Fendyman

iTrader: (19)

I thought someone is asking for THIS kind of AMP...