1st Post.... How about some advice?
09-18-2003, 11:32 AM
#16
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Originally posted by mmboost
That wing needs to be twice as big and 3 times as tall. Something kinda like this... Its time to shop, get your Shopping cart ladies!!!
(Yes, this was a real production Plymouth... Superbird GTX. S-H-O-pee-pee-I-N-G, we're SHOPPING!)
jason
p.s. Welcome
That wing needs to be twice as big and 3 times as tall. Something kinda like this... Its time to shop, get your Shopping cart ladies!!!
(Yes, this was a real production Plymouth... Superbird GTX. S-H-O-pee-pee-I-N-G, we're SHOPPING!)
jason
p.s. Welcome
FWIW, the wing on the production model was taken directly from the racecar version that this car was originally designed from, hence the massive wing...and yes, it is functional and pretty rare. Not to mention I would bet that car would smoke any one of our subies.....
-Ted
09-18-2003, 01:07 PM
#19
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Originally posted by ldivinag
BEEP BEEP... is that the road runner edition?
BEEP BEEP... is that the road runner edition?
Originally posted by GotBoost?
FWIW, the wing on the production model was taken directly from the racecar version that this car was originally designed from, hence the massive wing...and yes, it is functional and pretty rare.
FWIW, the wing on the production model was taken directly from the racecar version that this car was originally designed from, hence the massive wing...and yes, it is functional and pretty rare.
09-18-2003, 01:18 PM
#21
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Originally posted by Rotary Powaa
yeah, it is.
that car actually is the race car. they produced the minumum number of those cars to make it a "production" model, so they could race it in the(you guessed it) "production class". they were as close to race spec as was road legal at the time. they race the car as you see it with very minimal mods. the wing is functional
yeah, it is.
that car actually is the race car. they produced the minumum number of those cars to make it a "production" model, so they could race it in the(you guessed it) "production class". they were as close to race spec as was road legal at the time. they race the car as you see it with very minimal mods. the wing is functional
09-18-2003, 01:21 PM
#22
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depends on how much u want to spend
the more money conscious set-up would just be springs and they can improve your handling a lot... coupled with rear sway bar, etc... for springs, there are eibach, prodrive, tanabe, bleah bleah.. check out the sites ppl have mentioned and find ppl with different ones to grab rides from...
then there are coilovers, which give u more flexibility on stiffness, but also cost an arm and a leg...
wut do u want to do with ur car? wut type of racing?
the more money conscious set-up would just be springs and they can improve your handling a lot... coupled with rear sway bar, etc... for springs, there are eibach, prodrive, tanabe, bleah bleah.. check out the sites ppl have mentioned and find ppl with different ones to grab rides from...
then there are coilovers, which give u more flexibility on stiffness, but also cost an arm and a leg...
wut do u want to do with ur car? wut type of racing?
09-18-2003, 01:35 PM
#23
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Originally posted by babysmurf
depends on how much u want to spend
the more money conscious set-up would just be springs and they can improve your handling a lot... coupled with rear sway bar, etc... for springs, there are eibach, prodrive, tanabe, bleah bleah.. check out the sites ppl have mentioned and find ppl with different ones to grab rides from...
then there are coilovers, which give u more flexibility on stiffness, but also cost an arm and a leg...
wut do u want to do with ur car? wut type of racing?
depends on how much u want to spend
the more money conscious set-up would just be springs and they can improve your handling a lot... coupled with rear sway bar, etc... for springs, there are eibach, prodrive, tanabe, bleah bleah.. check out the sites ppl have mentioned and find ppl with different ones to grab rides from...
then there are coilovers, which give u more flexibility on stiffness, but also cost an arm and a leg...
wut do u want to do with ur car? wut type of racing?
09-18-2003, 01:48 PM
#24
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ummmmm, yea, you NEVER wanna just dump the clutch on an AWD car....you will royally your transfer case...plus yea, its not good for your tranny either....you wanna rev it to about 3.5-4k and slip the clutch a bit so you dont drop your tranny/tansfercase. AWD cars dont normally do burnouts....they have WAY more traction than any 2wd car and dumping the clutch really stresses your drive train because the wheels DONT slip....you just go. And yea, d00d, take your foot off the gas when you shift...why would you NOT take your foot off? when the clutch is disengaged, there is no reason for you to have your foot on the gas. Just practice your clutch/shift/gas timing, you will find that you get better gas mileage, not to mention that you will have MUCH SMOOTHER and FASTER positive shifts.
Also.....try not to RACE through traffic....its not safe for you, your passengers and especially to the other drivers on the road. I know I dont want my life gambled away by someone that feels weaving in and out of traffic is cool....its just plain stupid....there is a time and a place for all that kinda stuff.... ya know? Remember driving is a priviledge not a right.
BTW congrats on your new car! you will love it more and more with each passing day! Good luck, have fun, but be safe!
-Ted
your transfer case...plus yea, its not good for your tranny either....you wanna rev it to about 3.5-4k and slip the clutch a bit so you dont drop your tranny/tansfercase. AWD cars dont normally do burnouts....they have WAY more traction than any 2wd car and dumping the clutch really stresses your drive train because the wheels DONT slip....you just go. And yea, d00d, take your foot off the gas when you shift...why would you NOT take your foot off? when the clutch is disengaged, there is no reason for you to have your foot on the gas. Just practice your clutch/shift/gas timing, you will find that you get better gas mileage, not to mention that you will have MUCH SMOOTHER and FASTER positive shifts.Also.....try not to RACE through traffic....its not safe for you, your passengers and especially to the other drivers on the road. I know I dont want my life gambled away by someone that feels weaving in and out of traffic is cool....its just plain stupid....there is a time and a place for all that kinda stuff.... ya know? Remember driving is a priviledge not a right.
BTW congrats on your new car! you will love it more and more with each passing day!
Good luck, have fun, but be safe!-Ted
Last edited by GotBoost?; 09-18-2003 at 01:51 PM.
09-18-2003, 01:50 PM
#25
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Originally posted by iriedog
I think I'm learning more about this Roadrunner than my WRX. LOL
I think I'm learning more about this Roadrunner than my WRX. LOL
rear sway bar is best first mod IMO.brings the car to almost nuetral handling, if you get an adjustable you can set it for oversteer, understeer, or nuetral. it will provide a much more predictable and stable feeling to your otherwise stock car without sacraficing much, if any, ride quality.
second mod would be wheels and tires, the stock re92's are poo both in the snow and on dry pavement. the stock wrx wheels are very light (i believe around 16# each?) and you will be hard pressed to find an aftermarket wheel at that weight without breaking the bank.
springs are another good mod, better feeling of stability, and much more connected to the road.
you can put as much power as you want out of the motor, but if it doesnt get put to the ground, or if it only goes in a straight line, whats the point?
there isnt much cheap to do to give real power out of the motor, new exhaust and get rid of all those cats is a real good first step.
thats about all i can offer for now, had to make up for the hijack
09-18-2003, 02:25 PM
#26
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Originally posted by Rotary Powaa
rear sway bar is best first mod IMO.brings the car to almost nuetral handling, if you get an adjustable you can set it for oversteer, understeer, or nuetral. it will provide a much more predictable and stable feeling to your otherwise stock car without sacraficing much, if any, ride quality.
rear sway bar is best first mod IMO.brings the car to almost nuetral handling, if you get an adjustable you can set it for oversteer, understeer, or nuetral. it will provide a much more predictable and stable feeling to your otherwise stock car without sacraficing much, if any, ride quality.
haha to wut ted says: yeah... dropping clutch = bad.. but i guess everyone has to do it once.. i did.. but on wet grass
for tires, they are a good mod, but then again the re92's aren't THAT bad... i tracked 'em a few times, and they were MUCH better than kuhmo 712's
-bbsmurf
09-18-2003, 02:29 PM
#27
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Originally posted by babysmurf
rear sway bar doesn't do as much unless u have good endlinks, so i've heard.. but then again, i have a rear sway bar without the endlinks haha
-bbsmurf
rear sway bar doesn't do as much unless u have good endlinks, so i've heard.. but then again, i have a rear sway bar without the endlinks
haha -bbsmurf
BTW, welcome to the club, Ill keep an eye out for a stock silver wagon while im around Sac State
(Im an old green L with huge tires and small I-club stickers )
09-18-2003, 02:49 PM
#28
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Originally posted by Kostamojen
Thats not true. Endlinks help the swaybar transition better in a corner, but the effects still work!
Thats not true. Endlinks help the swaybar transition better in a corner, but the effects still work!
i just remember talking to some ppl way back when about how they couldn't feel the difference the rsb made on their car.. but when they added the endlinks, it made a HUGE difference.. i wouldn't know.. haven't tried yet...
09-18-2003, 04:48 PM
#29
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Originally posted by babysmurf
...........
to wut ted says: yeah... dropping clutch = bad.. but i guess everyone has to do it once.. i did.. but on wet grass
for tires, they are a good mod, but then again the re92's aren't THAT bad... i tracked 'em a few times, and they were MUCH better than kuhmo 712's
-bbsmurf
...........
to wut ted says: yeah... dropping clutch = bad.. but i guess everyone has to do it once.. i did.. but on wet grass
for tires, they are a good mod, but then again the re92's aren't THAT bad... i tracked 'em a few times, and they were MUCH better than kuhmo 712's
-bbsmurf
and yea,
Kumhos.....although they are good if you cant afford to buy tires every 35000 miles...they last forever....Vanessa can vouge for that one....she had to run over some spike strips or something to kill hers! -Ted
09-18-2003, 05:48 PM
#30
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I'm posting this out of sheer redundancy because it's been said already.
IMO, the (adjustable) rear anti-sway bar is the single most important change one can make to the suspension because it transforms the entire character of the vehicle from one of greater understeering tendencies to one of better turn-in and power out of corners. You will notice the difference immediately when lifting or braking for corners at even moderate speeds. I have mine set to the middle position and it is still a safe modification because of the subie's overall suspension engineering and AWD. I added the Whiteline alloy endlinks a few weeks later but found that it just makes for slightly more precise and predictable handling when removing that soft rubber in the bushings. The rear anti-sway bar also does not change the ride quality of the vehicle, which is important to some. As an added bonus, the bar may be set to the third (and stiffest) position for some autocross events to help rotate the rear of the car in the tighter stuff, but experiment with your driving style to find the best setting. I use the Cusco rear anti-sway bar but Whiteline and Perrin also make very popular ones.
For me, lowering the vehicle via spring change is not an option unless I go straight to a coilover. I need the factory ground clearance for dirt road excursions during fair weather and during the winter when I drive through light snow and ice.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
IMO, the (adjustable) rear anti-sway bar is the single most important change one can make to the suspension because it transforms the entire character of the vehicle from one of greater understeering tendencies to one of better turn-in and power out of corners. You will notice the difference immediately when lifting or braking for corners at even moderate speeds. I have mine set to the middle position and it is still a safe modification because of the subie's overall suspension engineering and AWD. I added the Whiteline alloy endlinks a few weeks later but found that it just makes for slightly more precise and predictable handling when removing that soft rubber in the bushings. The rear anti-sway bar also does not change the ride quality of the vehicle, which is important to some. As an added bonus, the bar may be set to the third (and stiffest) position for some autocross events to help rotate the rear of the car in the tighter stuff, but experiment with your driving style to find the best setting. I use the Cusco rear anti-sway bar but Whiteline and Perrin also make very popular ones.
For me, lowering the vehicle via spring change is not an option unless I go straight to a coilover. I need the factory ground clearance for dirt road excursions during fair weather and during the winter when I drive through light snow and ice.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush