*HELP* Broken Rear Sway Bar Frame Mount *HELP*
#16
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,046
From: Nor Cal SJ
Car Info: 2010 Hatch, 2011 Sedan
Yep, Civics of that era have almost the exact same rear subframe. The kit I worked on was the Beaks kit, just some plates that went on either side to keep the frame from flexing. Worked like a charm on mine. The machined plate ones came out later and though they were much more beefy, they also cost a lot more.
Last edited by 04GG; 01-24-2012 at 11:29 AM.
#21
General Pimpin'
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Posts: 23,019
From: Knee deep in beer. subabrew crew, ca.
Car Info: MY04 aspen wrx wagon.
Yep, Civics of that era have almost the exact same rear subframe. The kit I worked on was the Beaks kit, just some plates that went on either side to keep the frame from flexing. Worked like a charm on mine. The machined plate ones came out later and though they were much more beefy, they also cost a lot more.
Also ran CTR lower control arms and a CTR front sway bar. For a minute I ran Zeal V6 coil overs with 16k/12k springs. LOL!!!!!! back breaker.
#23
I'm pretty sure that's just the bracket and will not need to be welded. Call or go to the dealer and they can get you a part number and you can order 2 new ones for like 5$. They bolt on. My car being a 2.5i didnt even come with a rear sway bar so when I went to install one I had to order those brackets to hold it in. Simple fix. No welding needed.
Along with many others that have suggested, I say you get the tear welded and shut. Then because you are running after market sway bars, I would get some type of reinforcement bar welded ON to that plate to serve as extra durability. You should be good to go after that running stiffer sways.
#24
This was very common on all first gen Neons (Dodge Plymouth Chrysler) Only it was just the end link mounting bracket that would go not the frame its self.
I would suggest getting what looks like a tear into the frame welded before you put the new better bracket in. Might be wise to look at the other side to and see if there is any type of damage maybe have your welder weld on a single piece of metal on the underside if there is room to accommodate it. Better to be safe than sorry. I had the end link bracket go out on me while driving and every time i would hit a decent bump or take a corner hard i could hear the sway bar hitting the body. with where yours is broken it will cause the other side "stress" from movements that it wasnt intended to deal with. Just my 2 cents.
I would suggest getting what looks like a tear into the frame welded before you put the new better bracket in. Might be wise to look at the other side to and see if there is any type of damage maybe have your welder weld on a single piece of metal on the underside if there is room to accommodate it. Better to be safe than sorry. I had the end link bracket go out on me while driving and every time i would hit a decent bump or take a corner hard i could hear the sway bar hitting the body. with where yours is broken it will cause the other side "stress" from movements that it wasnt intended to deal with. Just my 2 cents.
#25
Thread Starter
Nobody likes the tuna here
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 19,779
From: Somewhere San Mateo County, Inside A 911 Ambulance
Car Info: 03 SRP WRX Street Class Prepped, 17 Chevy Duramax
Energy Suspension Part Number: 9.5158
Im planning on getting two sets of those for front and rear but.... I just saw they have different shaped ones, can anyone pitch in a word that have bought these before? 22mm front and rear and this is what the front looks like this
then the subframe connecter? goes on the corner which those rallitek ones had trouble clearing.
Also anyone know of the sway bar lateral locks? If only whiteline and rallitek are the ones to make them, I can't seem to find them individually. Mine did not come with them front or rear. Also does energy have a set too.
Thanks again
Hide
Im planning on getting two sets of those for front and rear but.... I just saw they have different shaped ones, can anyone pitch in a word that have bought these before? 22mm front and rear and this is what the front looks like this
then the subframe connecter? goes on the corner which those rallitek ones had trouble clearing.
Also anyone know of the sway bar lateral locks? If only whiteline and rallitek are the ones to make them, I can't seem to find them individually. Mine did not come with them front or rear. Also does energy have a set too.
Thanks again
Hide
#29
Yo Heedz, what did you end up going with, in terms of reinforcement? I think I may have the same dilemma as you came across for this old post (on my 02' Bugeye wagon).
I was hearing some clunking for the past 4 days in the rear, and finally got around to investigating. Appears the left Stabilizer Bracket (PN 20520FA010) sheared clean off the frame. Im guessing my adjustable Cusco Swaybar is putting way too much stress on that OEM Bracket... then again it's held up for over 7 years.
I was hearing some clunking for the past 4 days in the rear, and finally got around to investigating. Appears the left Stabilizer Bracket (PN 20520FA010) sheared clean off the frame. Im guessing my adjustable Cusco Swaybar is putting way too much stress on that OEM Bracket... then again it's held up for over 7 years.
#30
Thread Starter
Nobody likes the tuna here
iTrader: (51)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 19,779
From: Somewhere San Mateo County, Inside A 911 Ambulance
Car Info: 03 SRP WRX Street Class Prepped, 17 Chevy Duramax
Yo Heedz, what did you end up going with, in terms of reinforcement? I think I may have the same dilemma as you came across for this old post (on my 02' Bugeye wagon). I was hearing some clunking for the past 4 days in the rear, and finally got around to investigating. Appears the left Stabilizer Bracket (PN 20520FA010) sheared clean off the frame. Im guessing my adjustable Cusco Swaybar is putting way too much stress on that OEM Bracket... then again it's held up for over 7 years.