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RRFPR fitting

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Old 09-24-2003, 05:19 PM
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Re: RRFPR fitting

Originally posted by impreza7
[B]Hey, I pulled off my S-AFC because it sucks, instead opting for a RRFPR.
Dumb move. A RRFPR sucks more then your afc. What was wrong with your afc that made it suck so bad?

What's the best way to install it?
give it to someone you don't like to install it on their car.

If anything, you should have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Paxton or Aeromotive. Adjust your base pressure, then for every 1 psi of air, you get another psi of fuel. This is just one link of the chain of accurate fuel delivery.
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Old 09-24-2003, 10:11 PM
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Originally posted by impreza7
[B]Well, when you have to reset your car and idle it and readjust it every week after the stock ECU overrides it, just not what I signed up for.
Thus, inherant with the piggyback you chose.

I know the best way is full engine management, but that's just not possible at this time.
Isn't it weird that no one seems want to anything the best way the 1st time (also known as the "correct" way)? You would have saved yourself a ton of heartache. None the less, since you've decided to do it the wrong way, lets see how much good advice you're willing to take..

I've never had to adapt one to a Subaru before: So, what I need to know is how to make or where to buy a RRFPR fitting that will adapt to where my stocker sits on the fuel rail to cylinders 1 and 3. Thanks for your constructive and informed input.
Do not buy a RRFPR. Buy an adjustable FPR from Aeromotive, proven tried and true. Bolt it to your firewall because you have plenty of room there. While your at it, you could go the "extra mile" and set up your fuel system so you're running in parallel instead of serial.

Since you've decided AGAINST stand-alone at this point, go for a Greddy E-manage. They're basically universal, and I've expirenced 1st hand how well it works on a custom turbo kit. It was on a honda with a returnless fuel system of all things, which is about 3 times as tricky to tune then a standard system. The e-manage you can typically get for about a third of the price of a good stand-alone system like the autronic.

So it's up to you. I've done this before with a couple different cars. How much of what i'm telling you you willing to accept?

Last edited by Jgrahn555; 09-25-2003 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 09-25-2003, 08:32 AM
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Originally posted by jid2
Dude- Jgran555-why are you such a dillweed. You don't need to rip someone apart because they can't afford full stand alone. EVERYONE knows it's the best and right way to do it, but not everyone can afford it. SIMMER. You're giving Washington a bad rap.
I'm such a dillweed because i've seen things done right the 1st time, and seen things done wrong 5 times before people get it right. I'm not ripping him apart, i'm not sure if you noticed, but there is some advice posted up above. I'll repeat:

1: get an Aeromotive adjustable FPR. The one you need for your application is ~$125 from Summit or Jegs.
2: get an E-manage. That'll run ~$600. That's the only piggyback you can use that will "take the place" of a standalone.

Hell, don't listen to me. I'm just a salty internet nerd. GO FOR IT!
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Old 09-25-2003, 09:29 AM
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Originally posted by impreza7
So let me get this straight- I'm supposed to be making a better decision by going with ANOTHER piggyback??
Yep. the greddy unit is a great piece of equipment. I've been running one on an '03 civic custom turbo kit for about 4 months without having to readjust a thing.
And this one at twice the price? Ok, so we have $600 + $125 +$30 for hoses, parts, and other misc. crap= over $750. And a Link runs what, $900?
Twice the price of what? but your 750 calc sounds good. There are three things to chose from when you're modding your car: Speed, price, and reliability. From those 3, you can have 2. You want reliabilty and price, you don't have speed. You want speed and price (what you've chosen here) then you can't have reliability. Oh, and the Link is crap.
I know where you're coming from, but I'm just out of money, JGrahn. Maximum power is no longer the goal. I'm going to run 5psi max, and I just want something to keep my engine richer than stock. People create reliable low boost turbo kits using these regs. all the time, so don't tell me it's not feasible.
It's not feasible for any long period of time. How many people do you hear about that have stayed with that setup instead as opposed to upgrading it?
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:09 PM
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Originally posted by jid2
There's lots of people who run the simple setup without problems, and some who blow things up.
Wouldn't you rather not have that worry about blowing up?

Yes, an adjustable FPR replaces the stock unit in most cases. I don't know why you would want one though. I don't see a reason to simply raise fuel pressure across the board. An adjustable FPR does just that. Say you have 35 psi at idle, stock, and for some odd reason you want 45 psi, then you buy an adjustable unit. The RRFPR builds fuel pressure according to boost pressure, which is what you want. If you raise your fuel pressure above stock all the time, you're wasting fuel. You only need more fuel on boost.

Maybe "555" can say something about the usefulness of a normal FPR, I don't really know. [/B]
You certainly have a lot of "I don't knows" in your last post to be the person dishing out advice. Read into that as far as you want.

A stock fpr is good for stock applications, they're plenty useful there.

You do understand how a rising rate pressure regulator works, right? Lets say you have one of those 4:1 RRFPRs. Now lets say your base pressure is 20 psi (this is not the ACTUAL base pressure for a subaru, it's just a nice number that's easy to work with). You have 1 psi of boost, you now have 4 extra psi of fuel. 2 psi of boost = 8 psi of fuel. 5 psi of fuel = 20 extra psi of fuel. THAT'S 40 PSI OF FUEL, INSTEAD OF 25. Do you see a large difference there? Your application probably needs only a couple more PSI of fuel pressure then you receive stock, but 15 pounds is WAY to much.

Your stock regulator is 1:1. 5lbs of boost = 5 psi of fuel. If you want to talk about wasting fuel, with a rising rate, you have quadrupled what your engine requires! This makes you run super-rich, which leads to tons of other problems.

As engine load increases, more fuel pressure is needed. This is due to the richer mixture (more fuel needed) and to overcome the increased air pressure in the ports. Any unused fuel is diverted back to the fuel tank using a return line. Using an adjustable FPR allows you to fine tune adjust your base pressure up, giving you the effect of a larger injector.

Many, many, many people who upgrade their turbos the slow and easy way start out with an adjustable FPR and an S-AFC. Tune your AFC right the first time, then you won't have to worry about resetting it all the time. Without the AFC, how will you know what your injector duty cycle is?
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Old 09-25-2003, 02:12 PM
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Hey Jid, since we're buddies and all... I think you need to calm down a bit champ. You're the one that keeps saying "I dont know."

Impreza7, I've given you reasons why I know you should go the route I've provided. You make your call. Since jid seems insistant on belittling someone who knows what they're doing, I'll leave you to your own devices.

Have fun.
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Old 09-25-2003, 02:35 PM
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Originally posted by jid2
A couple more psi for 5lbs of boost; get real. 15-20 lbs more is just what you need.
Actually, what you NEED are larger injectors and real engine management. But since nobody wants to hear that when they are turbo shopping on a budget, people sell them RRFPRs and SFCs.
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:43 PM
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I go on to NASIOC...
Since they're so smart, go back. Why are you here then?
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