Don't forget your oil catch can (homemade)
#1
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Don't forget your oil catch can (homemade)
Saw a diagram for one on some other website.
So, I had to make one myself. The other guy claimed it to be $10, but I had to spend at least $20. Mine has 3 nozzles:
1) To the throttle body
2) To the air filter pipe
3) From the two spots on the engine crank case
Why ? It seemed a thing to do at the time. 1&2 can be one in theory.
Color courtesy of my g/f.
How do I make those neat angles on the PCV hoses ?
I did not want to use angle fittings, I just want to warp the hoses.
So, I had to make one myself. The other guy claimed it to be $10, but I had to spend at least $20. Mine has 3 nozzles:
1) To the throttle body
2) To the air filter pipe
3) From the two spots on the engine crank case
Why ? It seemed a thing to do at the time. 1&2 can be one in theory.
Color courtesy of my g/f.
How do I make those neat angles on the PCV hoses ?
I did not want to use angle fittings, I just want to warp the hoses.
#5
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Posts: n/a
What do you suggest ?
The can was left empty. As far as I read on the internet, the comercial and the homemade catchcans are empty.
I am hoping, since it is a huge 1 quart can, the oil will not get sucked up. The gravity will keep the oil dripping down.
What do you suggest ?
Re: What does the oil catch can do ?
In high performance cars, old cars, or cars with an added turbo there is a problem of oil seaping around the piston rings into the crank case. This is due to either the rings are wearing, or the boost preasure pushes the oil through the stock rings (not designed for that sort of thing.)
The extra oil then get's sucked up into the intake through the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. It is located around the throttle body. On the turbo cars, the oil also get's sucked up into the fitting before the turbo, after the air filter.
You can see if it is a problem by checking the amount of oil and gunk accumulating over time around the PCV valve (take the hose off) or the air filter pipe (for turbos).
So the can goes between the crankcase and the PCV valve to catch the extra oil. It should be emptied regularly.
I could be wrong on some terminology here.
I am hoping, since it is a huge 1 quart can, the oil will not get sucked up. The gravity will keep the oil dripping down.
What do you suggest ?
Re: What does the oil catch can do ?
In high performance cars, old cars, or cars with an added turbo there is a problem of oil seaping around the piston rings into the crank case. This is due to either the rings are wearing, or the boost preasure pushes the oil through the stock rings (not designed for that sort of thing.)
The extra oil then get's sucked up into the intake through the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. It is located around the throttle body. On the turbo cars, the oil also get's sucked up into the fitting before the turbo, after the air filter.
You can see if it is a problem by checking the amount of oil and gunk accumulating over time around the PCV valve (take the hose off) or the air filter pipe (for turbos).
So the can goes between the crankcase and the PCV valve to catch the extra oil. It should be emptied regularly.
I could be wrong on some terminology here.
#7
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Posts: n/a
"How does it pull the oil over though ?"
Do you mean through the engine ?
I am guessing that during one of the 4 cycles the oil manages to leak through the rings into the cyliner and not burn. I really don't know how it works, just that it has something to do with rings.
Do you mean through the engine ?
I am guessing that during one of the 4 cycles the oil manages to leak through the rings into the cyliner and not burn. I really don't know how it works, just that it has something to do with rings.
#9
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Write ups
This is the write up I used as a guide:
http://www.ls1info.com/article.php?sid=273
Although, my turbokit came with 1/2" inside diameter PCV hoses.
So, I got fittings with 1/2" hose barb and to 3/8" threaded male adapter. That forced me to get 3/8" threaded coupler and bigger washers (so that they fit over the 3/8" thead).
I do not under stand the plan of the person who did the write up.
Male and female threads on these fittings ARE NOT designed to come together completely (like nuts and bolts). I used a breaker bar and a big wrench to get them to tighten, took me good 10min each (I made 3).
I don't know if he had the same problems getting it this tight :
So maybe putting more washers or getting a different kind of a fitting is more appropriate.
I laid out the washers on the top of the lid and marked where the holes will go. Since I was using 3 washers and they were larger then the original plan, they did not fit quite right. I had to shave a chunk of one of them (It may help getting narrower outside diameter washers.)
Then, I drilled a small hole in the center, then enlarged it with dremmel (It would be better to use some kind of a "hole maker" drill attachment).
Overall it was kind of a pain, the parts I got at Farm and Fleet were about 2x more expencive then the write up guy got (and I needed more). The can I had to look for in 3 stores, until I finally got it at an unreasonable price at Shermin Williams Paint store.
Then the fittings would not screw together. That's why I did not do a write up, I am sure if you just start with a final picture as a goal, you will come up with a better path to it then me.
-------------------
This guy did it from the side, that might be more space
efficient (but you have to deal with the can side curve) :
http://www.angelfire.com/sc/cosmo/MR2_PCV2.html
Althogh I still have clearance between the hood and hoses.
http://www.ls1info.com/article.php?sid=273
Although, my turbokit came with 1/2" inside diameter PCV hoses.
So, I got fittings with 1/2" hose barb and to 3/8" threaded male adapter. That forced me to get 3/8" threaded coupler and bigger washers (so that they fit over the 3/8" thead).
I do not under stand the plan of the person who did the write up.
Male and female threads on these fittings ARE NOT designed to come together completely (like nuts and bolts). I used a breaker bar and a big wrench to get them to tighten, took me good 10min each (I made 3).
I don't know if he had the same problems getting it this tight :
So maybe putting more washers or getting a different kind of a fitting is more appropriate.
I laid out the washers on the top of the lid and marked where the holes will go. Since I was using 3 washers and they were larger then the original plan, they did not fit quite right. I had to shave a chunk of one of them (It may help getting narrower outside diameter washers.)
Then, I drilled a small hole in the center, then enlarged it with dremmel (It would be better to use some kind of a "hole maker" drill attachment).
Overall it was kind of a pain, the parts I got at Farm and Fleet were about 2x more expencive then the write up guy got (and I needed more). The can I had to look for in 3 stores, until I finally got it at an unreasonable price at Shermin Williams Paint store.
Then the fittings would not screw together. That's why I did not do a write up, I am sure if you just start with a final picture as a goal, you will come up with a better path to it then me.
-------------------
This guy did it from the side, that might be more space
efficient (but you have to deal with the can side curve) :
http://www.angelfire.com/sc/cosmo/MR2_PCV2.html
Althogh I still have clearance between the hood and hoses.
Last edited by bigkuma; 08-31-2003 at 08:55 PM.
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Longing for my ol' white '02 WRX :(
Posts: 3,639
Car Info: 2016 Acura RDX ... meh. Um, nice subwoofer?
You need to fill it with a scrubbing pab, not steel wool but those thick banded bads. Then you need some sort of meter to tell when its filling up so the oil doesn't get sucked back in. I'm going to be making my own from an aluminum fuel can (like you use for camping).
jason
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